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Looks like you have space on the drive side, the whole crank unit needs to be shifted towards the non drive side. Have you installed any spacers on the drive side? If you have, can you move them all across to the non drive side?

You may need to change your shifter if you switch speeds on the freewheel.

You won’t have a locking ring on a freewheel, since it screws onto the hub. You need a spacer and locking nut to provide the gap between the small cog, chain and frame. The axle lock nuts are usually 4mm deep and I can’t quite see deep enough into the freewheel to see how big your spacer needs...

Out of interest, what’s the gap between your rear dropouts? All my threaded motor hubs have a spacer and locking nut on the drive side. I don’t see any on your hub?

A 46 will be harder to pedal than a 44 in the same gear, for sure. You need to look at your lowest and highest cogs on the cassette to work out if a 46 will be too hard. When I went from a 34/50 to a single 40-tooth, I found I was using the higher gears almost exclusively. Getting up steep...

It’s possible. I have done the same thing on my Specialized. You will need to work out your chainline for the single ring and then maybe adjust the size of your bottom bracket to accommodate this. If you want to keep your existing chainset you will need to remove the chainrings and replace...

Firstly, check the freewheel is seated on the hub correctly and tightened down. If you still have a clearance issue, add a washer. You will need to check frame clearance for the chain as well, as it passes over the smallest cog on the freewheel. One other thought - is the motor axle designed...

If the front brake is not being used very often you may experience glazing on the pads and rotor. A rub down with some 240 grit wet and dry on both sides of the rotor and the pads (be gentle on the pads as you are only removing the glazing) may solve the issue.

Something like a 15” framed step-through may work for you. The issue may be weight. A lot of the step-through ebike models are built like tanks and weigh north of 20kg, which is a lot!

Get yourself a rear wheel kit and convert the Bianchi - you will end up with a bike of far better quality than some of the brand new £1k ones on sale currently.

Taxes and VAT - duty on ebike kit is running at about 3.5% and you pay 20% VAT on the goods and the shipping. So watch out for inflated shipping costs. My last quote for shipping was 3x higher than I normally pay.

There are companies that supply full kits based in the UK - so you get a good price on the kit and peace of mind regarding any technical issues. A motor kit is around £175-£185 - depending on the type of handlebar display you want. A 36v 10ah battery should be around £175. If you can fit the...

Another vote for a rear hub motor with a down tube bottle battery. Should cost about £350 with controller, PAS and display.

I have put a little guide together (with pics) to help with a front-wheel conversion. You can download here: https://www.thebikeshed.online/downloads

Try cyclesent.co.uk. Should be around £45 for delivery.

Could you not use a torque arm, or two, to secure the rear hub. Looks like you have some threaded mounts to do the trick. Nice bike for conversion, by the way.

Have you got the instruction manual for the LCD3?

Are you using rim tape?

You have the integrated PAS unit, not the two piece. I find the on-piece unit a little temperamental unless it is installed with enough clearance on the bb axle. Sometimes they bind up for no apparent reason. I have been able to fix a couple by splitting the unit apart and sanding down the...

Yes. Very quiet. Probably one of the reasons my Chinese supplier has quoted freight costs that are three times higher than normal....