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Buy a two- piece PAS. The sensor should fit between the bottom bracket and frame no problem. You will need to cut out the centre of the magnet ring until it sits nicely on the chainset behind the inner chainring. Epoxy the magnet into place. You can then put the chainring back on the square...

Regarding chain length - put the chain on the largest sprocket on the cassette and the largest chainring on the chainset. The rear derailleur cage should be around 45 degrees from vertical. If the cage goes more horizontal than 45 degrees, you will need to add links to the chain, any less, you...

You could get a very decent hub kit for about £350 all in - with a 36v 10ah battery. A UK supplier will be able to guarantee the kit and provide spares from UK stock, so no need to send anything back to China. And a UK supplier will be paying the VAT and duty due on the kit - a small win for...

8-speed freewheels may be slightly wider than 7-speed, so you will need to check the clearance of the smallest cog on the chain and seat stays. The distance between the left and right axle locknuts should stay the same - 135mm whether you are 7 or 8-speed.

Should be a breeze to install a kit on that bike. Your only ‘issue’ will be installing the PAS on the crank. Space between the bottom bracket shell and inner chainring might be tight. You should be able to epoxy the magnet ring to the inner chainring if there isn’t enough room on the axle.

I used to do a nine-mile ride each way in and out of London, on a non-electrified bike. Used to take 40 mins. An ebike would probably take 30 minutes. However, the one thing that really slows down journey times, no matter what you ride, is the traffic light.....

No.

I have just stripped a three-wheeler down to rebuild and refurbish. A front-wheel motor (I am using a Q100) with 36v battery. You will have various options, depending on the width of the front forks - 100mm is the ‘standard’ width, but if the width is narrower, there are motors with smaller...

So, you will feel a little ‘play’ in the front forks, just because your handlebars are sitting on top of a long lever, which pivots on the headset, which is in that bit of the bike frame that you have photographed. Is there too much play in the headset? Difficult to say - there is a fine line...

Build your own. Get a good quality bike - plenty of bikes available on auction sites, etc. A hub motor, along with a kit plus battery will cost around £350.

One thing I am curious about - does Turnec1 have a chainset axle with the little hole on the non-driveside that engages with a stopper plate that slides in that slot in the non-drive side crank. Once you install the sensor ring on the drive side, will there be enough axle on the non driveside...

Yes. I think he will need to buy the deore bb, with spacers. Otherwise, I think the solution would be to use the current bb, remove the sensor from the retaining ring and secure it appropriately to the bike frame.

I have some 12 pole sensors. I can sell you one for £9.50 inc postage and cut the magnet disc to size, if you send me the required dimensions.

You have some options here. A Shimano Deore bb with external cups will have 3 spacers included, to cater for 72mm and 68mm wide bottom bracket widths. On a road bike, you would use all the spacers, 2 on the drive side and 1 on the non-drive side (or a combo that offers the best chainline for...

Is that an aheadset? Can’t quite tell from the vid. If it is, you can loosen the stem bolts and the tighten up the top cap bolt (not too tight though; 5-6nm should do the trick). That should pull the forks up snug with the headtube and spacers, without placing any excess force on the upper and...

If you start a conversion with a good-quality bike, you can’t go far wrong. And you get the added benefit of being able to sell the standard bike at a reasonable price if and when it is decommissioned or you upgrade.

12.5mm on each side of the frame is a substantial movement. Is the fame up to it?

Have you thought about a front-hub conversion?

Looks nice. Value for money? My Specialized weighs about the same, has 9 gears, a 36v 10ah battery that does 40+ miles on a full charge at 15 mph and cost £550 all in. And I can remove the motor if I want to sell the bike. And I can re-install the motor on a new bike. Looks nice though.

There should be enough movement in the derailleur parallelogram to reach high and low sprockets. All the High/Low screws do is limit movement so the derailleur doesn’t ship the chain into the wheel or frame. This could be asimple fix, or something a little more complicated. Do you have any pics?