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I had assumed not, since the current remained constant during the OP's tests. This would indicate a voltage regulator.

...but.... If you make a 2s pack, run it through a dc-dc converter (say 90%. Efficiency) down to 3.5v, you will get 4 hours 20 minutes.

Sounds like your lamp has a voltage regulator inside it. This will cut the voltage down to (from your test results) 3.4v, or a little bit less. Its not the most efficient way to do things, but its cheap and simple. So yes, running from 1s would be about right.

IIRC, the Department for transport have issued a letter that states that they will not prosecute anyone for using a 250w machine, and the law will one day be harmonised with Europe. Others will be able to clarify more precisely.

I don't think that's quite what Jonal meant. Two countries separated by a common language and all that.

I don't think you need them. I've put a few thousand miles on my bikes, all of which use the cheapest/ordinary cables available from Halfords. My all up weight (complete with son on a towed bike and his fat knacker of a father) will be a lot more than yours. I've not had a failure yet.

If its causing the wheel to drag, then it's likely that the motor wires (aka phase wires) are touching somewhere. Is the motor in the hub, or a seperate motor bolted to the frame? Pics would help....

I drive a lot whilst working. In order to be more productive I use the built in hands free in my car, mostly while travelling along A30/A38 in Devon/Cornwall. I have been doing this for 10 years or so and I honestly can't say I have had one incident that could be linked to this behaviour. While...

Just play along until he asks for money by western union (or whatever the scam is), then you will have all the evidence you need to provide to eBay.

That's my wife's Xmas present up the swanny, hope you're all pleased with yourselves! Fortunately pound stretcher are open until 18:00h on Xmas eve.

I've bid 25k for it. Any one care to top me?

It's up to 3k now!

Put some stickers on it that say 'Apollo'. No need for a lock.

The controller must know the RPM, because it has to send the 3 phases to complete each rotation. But it doesn't know the circumference of the wheel. Perhaps they all assume a 26" wheel?

I admit that I've never used this in the real world, on a bike. I prefer a hidden wire brake sensor as I don't have hydraulic brakes. I've tested it on the bench though. It seemed fairly stable and repeatable. At the end of the day magnetic properties are fairly constant.

You can use another magnet to make 'em N.C. http://m.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Magnetic-Reed-Switch-Work-Backwards-sort-o/

Oh, now I see. That's the loading weight of the wheel, and as the seller points out, a bike has two wheels so you can double that to get total weight the machine can take. My CST bike (basically same motor) is rear wheel drive. Most of the weight is over the back wheel - 20 ah battery is on...

Haha, I didn't read the quote, and thought you were talking to Tilson about helmets. It was much funnier that way.

Expensive, and similar alternatives are available (e.g bakfeits, other cargo bikes). I fixed one up for a friend a few months back. lots of fun.

Brake bosses are never standard. Your best bet is your LBS, who will probably have a box of assorted ones for you to try. What make is the fork?