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I just had a look on my local BnQ, 35 mins is for the 2.6ah one, the 4ah will run the mower for 49mins (i think it said). It may well be 2C but for that spec it only needs to be just above 1C.

I seem to remember others having issues with Kalkhoff rear wheel/dropouts/thread problems.

The black thing is also a capacitor, so I guess that controller is only good for a 36v system. It may be that the 50v cap is on the LV (e.g. 5v) section of the controller but you would need to trace the tracks to be sure.

From https://www.gov.uk/electric-bike-rules ........ the motor shouldn’t have a maximum power output of more than 200 watts if it’s a bicycle and 250 watts if it’s a tandem or tricycle the bike must have a plate showing the manufacturer, the nominal voltage of the battery, and the motor’s...

Just checking, and forgive me if I'm teaching you to suck eggs, but you have pulled the cable up? Once pad position is set, you rarely need to re-adjust (perhaps once) during the life of the pad. Adjusting the cable however, needs to be done regularly, every few hundred miles, and more often on...

That's a very cynical view stevew. Shame on you ;-)

Basically, if the sticker on the motor says 500w, then it's not legal. If the sticker says 250w, it could be made legal. It's all daft, because the motor is not the component that controls the power - that's the controllers job.

No, not sure. The ones I have salvaged seem to be ok at 1C, and I have pushed them to 2C in my power drill, although I agree you get a lot of sag.

....or even a tandem?

No no no no no. Your battery almost certainly won't power both motors, so you will need another battery, and controller. And another throttle of some kind. By the time you've spent out on all that, you may as well buy a half decent second hand MTB and start again. As far as low top speed goes...

The joining bar is called a trailgator. I use one with my 6 year old, but I'm not sure how long we will be able to continue. We also have a Kona Africa that I have fitted with a rear seat, and electrified. My wife says that he's getting too big for her to handle. I would have thought a long...

Probably a 36v ku65. If it was a 48v the the LVC would cut it out at (IIRC) 41v.

Ok, so 5s is a nominal 18v. Since you have two, you have a 36v battery. This will measure 41-42v fully charged. Assuming your cells are 2ah and perfectly balanced, then you have 14ah. Most can handle 2c, so your battery has the potential for 28a. I doubt it will perform so well in practice...

For good hill climbing you need around 20amps at 36v. The KU65 will deliver 15a to the motor if the battery can keep up. This can easily be upped by soldering the shunt. My guess is that your home made battery is not giving as much current as you need. What cells are you using, and how many?

Suspension is not a requirement. Personally, I prefer a bike without as I'm rarely off road. I'd agree with others, it's a good bike for conversion. If that rack is sturdy, then you can put a battery in a bag.

Just for a bit of balance, I have dealt with Clean Republic in the past, and they were very good. The kit they supplied was basic, but it's still running 3 years on. 8fun 24v front hub, and I've been running both the hub and original controller (also 24v) at 36v. It's been hauling my wife & 6...

I glued a peak to mine, much improved.

I wear mine all year round. It has vents in it, so it's not too hot. It also has ear covers that are detachable so I only use them in winter.

....or 2πr

As I read your post a terrible feeling of guilt fell upon me. We followed a very slow moving, vulnerable road user down a narrow lane yesterday in the car. At first we kept a distance from her, but after a while frustration got the better of us. I reduced the gap, and increased the revs to...