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Sounds like its the wrong controller for your motor. If your motor has two wires, it's a brushed one. If your controller has three wires it's for a brushless motor. Just using two wires won't work I'm afraid. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

It's only 6FET, 15a controller, so nearly anything will do the job. The more I look, the more I fancy the 08 type. Looks like this is what's on the Woosh Karoo.

I need a small (10ah, 36v) battery for my latest build. I have used the 09 batteries from BMS before, and I quite like them. I notice they also have an 08 model, and they still have the bottle type. Electrically, they will all do the job as I have a separate controller. Low weight and size are...

Miss quoting the guys name (repeatedly) does nothing to convince me otherwise. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

So, it's really a device for throttling the power delivery. There's probably a word for that..... Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

That's worst of both worlds. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

I have to agree. While I've never had any really good sus forks (Fox & Suntour mostly) I much prefer the ride of a rigid fork, both on ebike and manual. I'm sure they have a place off road, but on road they are a waste of time. If you want comfort go with rigid forks and balloon tyres. Sent...

The three wire one may be for a throttle. If so, black/red will be 5v, with a 1-4v (ish) returned on the yellow. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

That assumes that the charge current is constant, which it isn't. A 2A charger will be putting out 1A for fair time depending on where you catch it in the cycle. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

I'd stick a meter across the battery while you lift the wheel and give it full throttle. See what voltage it goes to when juddering starts. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

It may help to get some pictures on here. Not all SLA's are suitable for an electric bike, as they won't discharge at a high enough rate. That could be your problem. If the batteries say 'standby' there's a good chance they are not up to the job. The only way to fully test your batteries is to...

This is a fairly normal arrangement for a 36v SLA. You can re-solder and re-terminate all you like. It won't fix knackered batteries.

SLA's don't have a BMS, so a low voltage condition will be detected by the controllers LVC detection. At this point the controller will switch off, the current will drop, the voltage will recover and the controller will re-start. It could be other things, as Flecc has described, but I've seen...

No, fuses either work or fail completely. As Flecc says, most likely a battery problem.

If you do 12,000 miles and can, then give it back!

Sorry, I can only vouch for stuff that I have actually seen. I've heard others report over ten thousand miles, so I wouldn't worry too much. If I were to guess, I'd say 3 years/12,000 miles, after which the battery will be on its last legs.

I understand all that, but you are missing the fact that it's about motor rating. Just for clarity I will say it once more. Motor rating. Not motor output.

Oh dear. Firstly, in this context a motor does not provide a wattage, it consumes it. In nearly all pedelecs the power (watts) is controlled by the voltage (battery) and current (controller). The rating of that motor is about how much power it can consume before it fails. You can debate...

I don't know what motor is fitted to the raptor. The website at e-bikesdircect.com lists it as a '200Wh', showing a fundamental lack of understanding of what they are selling. It's a shame that no one bothers to check this kind of information. I wouldn't buy something from peeps who can't...

Fit them now, then you don't have to worry. If you are capable of fixing a puncture you can do all the servicing yourself. Its really not hard, and the cost of one service will buy you a good toolkit. If you want to commute you need to learn these skills anyway, so may as well start now and...