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If you want rubbery try self amalgamating tape.

Sorry, but pics,are too blurred to make any sense. My guess is that your throttle has extra functionality. A normal throttle uses 3 wires: 5v, 0v, and signal. Perhaps yours also has battery voltage meter, or a switch?

I don't know how to tell you this , but..... ....The same thing also happened to my friend. He took off that plastic thing, and within twenty four hours all the milk in his fridge had gone sour.

I'm pretty sure is a 'Beast' model, from a company called Mythical. Been around for a long time.

This is basically what's inside the new Tesla 3

No, I'm guessing you would dislike it. Torque sensor measures how hard you are pushing, and gives more power the harder you push. It's sort of opposite to PAS.

A battery has two connections. You need to understand what the extra connection is and how its connected. Any 36v battery will do the job, as long as it can supply enough current. There are normally 3 large wires from the controller to the motor, and sometimes a number of smaller sensor wires.

The controller will probably have more information on it. If nothing else the no. Of FETs will give us a clue.

Assuming a business motor (3 wires indicates it is): It's the controller that will determine how much current it gets, the battery will determine how many volts. The motor will have a rating that determines how much power (V x A) it can handle. Post some pictures and we can make an educated guess.

Not going to work I'm afraid. Even if you series up a bunch of 2a USB ports to get 35v, you will still only have 2a to play with. You will need around 15a for a half decent battery.

I give up.

As I said , I have a watt meter, and I have used it to measure power, and I can confirm that a 20a controller will pull 20a out if the battery and chuck it at the motor. You can seriously (or frivolously) doubt this information, but it's true. I've checked many controllers, with many motors...

Yes, but I assumed KristenS wants a motor that does about 200 RPM at 24v.

I've always assumed that Soundwave's first language is 'Internet Scammer'.

Waste of time. It'll be a scam. Did I mention that I'm a Nigerian prince who's desperate to launder some money?

Your problem with BMS battery is about how you are phrasing the problem. Even I (as a native speaker of English) had to read a couple of times. A freewheel is a specific piece of equipment. The screw on type sprockets, similar to a cassette but threaded as opposed to keyed. The BPM is not...

I have a SWX 24v sitting on the shelf. No rim though... Sensorless I think.

When ever I've checked my motors/controllers with my watt meter I've always found the current from the battery to be there or there abouts with stated current limit. I've tested with Bafang BPM/CST/SWX's and Q128, with all kinds of controllers. Perhaps there's something in your test setup...

Yes that's normal. You will need to file the dropouts a few mm deeper.

CST Kit from Woosh will be about perfect: http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits Or, if you want a bit more power buy the S/H Kit I'm selling on Ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272189135420?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2648