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I think you need to post a diagram of how you have wired them. When you said 'series and parallel' I assumed you meant 2s2p, which would give you 22.2v

From the pic I'd guess you have a square taper. Remove the left crank arm (non drive side), put sensor behind BB retaining ring, magnet ring on crank shaft, refit crank arm. Simples.

Yes. If your packs are 3 x 3.7v (nominal 11.1v) then each pack will be 3 x 4.2v at full charge. Assuming you have wired 2s2p then you should expect 6 x 4.2v (25.2v) when fully charged.

No, not seen the Russian one. If I built a stealth bomber type bike I'd be going for 2kW. As many other posters on here, I am the owner of an extensive private estate ;-)

Haha, great pic! You're right, I've only ever known it as 'Slealth Bomber' style. While I admire it and would love to build something similar, I think its anything but stealth.

There a nothing wrong with manufacturing, just that it's then a motor vehicle, not an EAPC.

Great build, love those forks! Thanks for sharing.

Don't worry about traction too much. If you are on the road it won't be a problem. A couple of my bikes are front drive. The one I was riding today is not quite as torquey as the big bear, but not far off. I just rode it up a gravel/mud farm track, probably 1:10, in the rain with a 20ah battery...

Yes, that's a capacitor. Lying down or standing up is no problem. Open it up and post some pics. 6 FET is normally around 15a, 9 is 22a, 12 is 30a. If you solder the shunt a bit you can get a few more amps from the controller. 17a should be easy to do.

I'm pretty sure he's OK, and posting on ES. I've got a feeling he views threads here from time to time. I've considered starting a thread to tempt him out into the open. Something like 'Hub drives are rubbish at climbing hills, everyone should get a CD'.

Put a throttle on one or the other.

You are correct, the only difference will be in the battery indicator. If you look in the item description it says that the small red wire is +5v.

It all depends. Generally speaking, most motors will survive a bit of overvolting, as long as you are careful how you use them. Some controllers can be overvolted, but lots are 24/36v. If the controller is ok at 48v then you will be reliant on the batteries BMS for low voltage cut out...

I'm guessing that the guys at Mercedes gave him a new bike in double quick time because they wanted him out of the showroom pronto. Also, I have a feeling they have hundreds of unsold units in a warehouse somewhere, hence the massive 'discount'. At £1200 it's still expensive for a 420Wh...

Sorry, you can't have both. Series will double the voltage, parallel will double the capacity (Ah). Can't have it both ways. Also, with them being different capacities you need to be very careful about how you connect them. I would advise against it with your present level of knowledge.

Parallel is pos to pos, neg to neg. Series is pos to neg, use the other two for load. What exactly are you trying to achieve?

Top bullying Flecc. Now give him a wedgey.

The BPM is 180mm diameter. The old SWXH is 120mm

Hard to tell from the picture. IIRC the Tornado was one of the first to use the BPM. I wonder if early versions were AKA SWX08. How old is the bike?

How would you do that then? its 'EASY' until you think about it for a few seconds.