The IMAX b6 will charge just about everything, including lipo, li-ion, SLA, ni-mh, ni-cad.
I have a clone one, its been really good.
It will also discharge, so you can test capacity.
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I don't know for certain, as I've never taken one apart, however:
Most modern hub motored bikes use a 36v battery and brushless, DC motor. When I say most, I mean nearly all.
To confirm battery voltage, look at the bike. Somewhere it should be stated. If not, you'll have to get a meter on it...
Those old steel frames (with nice thin tubes) are great for ebike conversions. They have a bit more 'give' than alloy, so are very comfy.
Not to be confused with modern, fat tubed steel frames which are all about looking like alloy. Normally sold by the kind of shop that can't tell which way...
Second this. I have cheapo one on my off-road bike, and over the Xmas holiday I gave it a few good thumpings at a trail centre. Probably covered 20 miles over a few sessions without any problem.
While I'm no Danny MacAskill, as a tester I feel I make up for this with poor technique and excess...
I don't know much about welding if I'm honest, but I do know that it's current that's key. The resistance of the work piece is not under your control (inside some limits), so voltage must be varied to get the correct current.
Since a spanner can be welded/melted at 12v I'd have thought that's...
You need to better informed before telling others about legality of EAPC's. For the OP's sake it would be best if you did this in another thread.
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Could be a loose connection, could be a duff battery. Do you have a multimeter?
If not, you can get a cheap one from screwfix/toolstation/ebay for around £5
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You are missing a very fundamental part of the picture here. All of that stuff applies if you want to sell an EAPC with a throttle, not if you want to modify your own EAPC for your own use, as in the OP's question.
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If they are high discharge ones (not standby) and in good order they should work. I once accidentally welded a 12" adjustable across the two terminals of my boat battery. It was quite an exciting moment while I grabbed the nearest blunt object to break it loose.
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There was a discussion on this subject about 12 months ago, and basically there's a loophole for DIY bikes.
One could argue that if you modify a commercially available product (by adding a throttle for example) then it becomes a DIY bike.
Either way, The DFT have previously stated that they...
I get the feeling that tringmotion is speaking from some kind of dealer perspective. Just a guess.
Edit: a subsequent google search turned up this link: http://www.tringmotion.co.uk/epages/es787851.mobile/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es787851
As D8veh says, its no problem for the end user to add/uae a...
Those numbers are pretty close to what you are looking for. Are you sure of the accuracy of your meter? Presumably you'd be happy with 4.2v, but not with 4.23v, an error of 0.15% on the 20v range? Its a similarly small error on the total voltage, 0.1% on the 200v range.
Glad you are enjoying the new bike.
Sadly, your plan for mobile charging has a couple of draw backs.
Your bike battery is around 575wh (36v x 16ah) and your leisure battery is about 1300wh. With lead acid batteries you don't want to use much more than about 50% or they will suffer, so you have...
You probably want some form of cutout, as when throttles fail they often go fully open.
Most times the bikes brakes can overpower the motor, so it's more about protection of the motor. However, if you have more power and crap brakes, it could be a problem.
Ironically, if you use the brake...
The first really does need to be disconnected.
If it were me, I find a way to cut the power cable from battery/controller, put a connector on it, and corresponding connectors on both the batteries. When one was exhausted, I'd swap over to the other.
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