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I currently have two of each on the road. Light assist road/mountain bike, electric cruiser, two non assisted MTB, one for road one off road. In a normal week I use all of them at least once (maybe not the cruiser). Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Yes, in the Classified section.

I don't understand what ' tested with Multimeter 38.5v on bike 25.32' means. Please elaborate.

At he risk of repeating myself, that's correct for the 2S2P arrangement that you have created. This will give you a nominal 21.6v pack (which will measure around 25.2V fully charged)

I don't see how you can reasonably use disc brakes on that frame. Plastic pedals are a useful visual quality barometer. Generally, this means that all the bits you can't see are also made of plastic or clinker or cheese. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Nope. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Trust me, you don't want to be doing 30mph on a cruiser with plastic brakes and pedals. To be even remotely safe at that sort of performance you need a much better bike. Not trying to spoil your fun here, just don't want you to waste you money or get hurt. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

I expect that '1000w' motor is a direct drive unit. Unless you want to go along the flat at 35mph, then its not what you need. For normal cycling you need a geared motor, which will give you a good balance of torque and speed. About 18mph top whack at 250w (which will peak around 700w). Trust...

5.8Ah of lithium is probably about the same as 16Ah of SLA. A 16Ah SLA will be closer to 10-12Ah at the sort of discharge rate you need for a (very) heavy bike. Then, you can halve that value, as that's all you can use without killing it. Then, if you have bought high quality cells you may get...

The OP says Its a hub geared bike, so the chain should last for a very long time. Also, slipping may mean a problem with the hub rather than the chain.

I agree. I think fat bikes look a bit weird on the road. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

A 4" fat bike tyre on a 26" rim will have a greater circumference than a 2" on a 26" rim, but it wouldn't make much practical difference, especially with a crank drive. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Bmsbattery for controllers Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

You don't say how much you weigh, so it's difficult to give an answer, but I agree with others, a DD kit is probably the wrong way to go. If I were you, I'd be looking for a rear wheel kit, with a geared hub motor (Bafang/8fun SWX or similar) and a downtube mounted battery of about 10Ah at 36v...

It's would be best if you could tell us all what you are trying to achieve. Direct drive is rarely the correct answer. We need to know: How far, how fast, how heavy. How hilly, how handy, how fit. If you answer these questions you will have a much better chance of getting the correct kit...

Is that a direct drive motor kit? If so, why do you want that? Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

That's cool, well done on making good. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Well, thanks for giving us all the opportunity to help you. It's good of you to give up your time for us in this way. FFS, how hard is it to say the occasional 'thanks' when people have been trying to help you? Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Did you really ask him for a discount to cover your time & expenses for driving to his shop? I'm not defending the guy, I don't know him and have never dealt with him, but I can understand why he would be unwilling to pay you to come to his shop! Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

You will need a cheap multimeter. Something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231907966036 Then you need to charge the battery up, measure voltage and report result here. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk