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It's better to be far right that far wrong!

The shunts are like a wire staple in the pcb. Sometimes there is only one, but higher current controllers often have two, three or more side by side. Some controllers have solid state shunts, which are like little black slabs. Here's a picture of a pair of normal shunts...

The green light didn't come on because the battery wasn't fully charged. Don't forget that your meter is probably reading high.

Test one controller at a time with every connector disconnected. Set the meter to measure resistance (omega symbol). Put your red probe on the red battery wire's pin and the black probe on any of the three main motor wires (like the ones that melted). Take the reading. Repeat for the other two...

Can you show a picture of the front of the meter so I can tell you how to set it? A 48v battery should be 54.6v when fully charged, and anything from there down to about 41v if not fully charged.

There's probably nothing wrong with your charger. You should borrow somebody else's meter to check it. If you have a laptop charger or anything else with lithium batteries, like lawnmower, garden tools, vacuum cleaner, etc, measure the charger's voltage and compare that with what's written on...

For those who didn't believe me: https://x.com/AmericanHubener/status/1857396581537870089

Why didn't you fit the throttle as an instant max power over-ride for the PAS power level? You don't even need a throttle. A simple push-button switch would do it.

The testing is quite simple once you have the meter. It's just a question of following instructions, which you, thankfully, are very good at. That makes it a pleasure to help.

These days, you're a facist if you want to spell correctly, be punctual and have good manners. That makes me think he's my type of guy.

If you can get it to Telford, I'll look at it for you.

It depends which wires touch and for how long. You can damage the motor too. Was it just the two wires that melted? is there any chance that they melted and touched any of the thin wires? You have two controllers. It's possible that one got damaged, but not both. Whatever has happened, the...

Loads of members have reported punctures, and we've had a lot of discussion about how to fix them and how to avoid them. What's that got to do with batteries catching fire.

It might be OK. It depends how long you held the power on while they were shorted. Those connectors are pretty useless. It's better to solder the wires together and insulate them with two layers of heatshrink.

I'd need to see every wire and connector attached to the controller/s to figure out what you have before I can help with solving the problem. Can you explain how it worked with the two motors. Which motor/s work with the throttle, and which with the pedal assist, and does the LCD adjust the...

That's normally the result of false flag operations, which is mainly a left side or deep state tactic to make the other side look bad.

It looks like a G51. Anyway, you have the instructions for it now, so that doesn't matter. Do you have two separate controllers for your two motors? It looks like one in the box at the front bottom of the frame. What's in the bag at the top of the frame?

So that leaves two possibilities: Either yout meter is reading incorrectly, which is quite common; or your charger is set too high, which is not so common. That means it's probably OK. The only way to know is to check your meter with a known voltage. The meter normally starts going high when the...

Which LCD do you have?

What's the derestricting technique?