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Drop-outs on alloy forks break when you don't do the nuts up tight enough or when you have a nut/washer overlapping the lawyers lip (dimple). Filing the drop-outs to make the axle fit properly is very important. For alloy forks, you really need a torque arm for safety. It's not fun when your...

It's a custop connector, like an XT60 but with the D-shape reversed on one side. It might be possible to cut an XT60 down the middle, reverse the one side and glue it back together.

Next thing to try is to stick your probes in the battery connector and keep them there while you switch on. You have to open the controller compartment to do that. If the voltage drops, you have a short. If there is a short, it's probably a blown MOSFET in the controller. If the voltage doesn't...

The cheaper bikes tend to have 10mm drop-outs. 9mm is for Q/R wheels.

It'll work. No need to test anything.

36v would help a lot. All the 24v controllers I tried at 36v worked OK, but I can't guarantee that it won't blow. If you want to be more sure, open the controller and look at the big capacitor in it. If it has a voltage rating over 42v, it should be OK, most are 53v or more. That's the thing...

What was the original problem that caused you to buy a new battery?

That's how it should be. Disconnect the brakes for testing.

The problem is that OP's drop-outs are not fully inboard of the fork legs. Swytch should make it clear that those type of forks are not compatible. Your only choice is to put a 12mm washer inboard of each drop-out. That will probably be OK, though it might make it a bit tight to get the motor...

Not fully inserted, the outer must reach the line. Did you see the line and does the edge reach it? 1mm short will give the problem you describe.

To be legal, the motor needs to be marked as rated at 250w by the manufacturer. If it has that marking, it's legal. There is no law about how much power it can make, nor how much power you can push it to. It's output power that determines how well a motor drags you up hills. The more power you...

Don't buy anything unless you find that something is faulty by testing with a meter. Start by checking that the motor connector is in ALL THE WAY TO THE MARKED LINE, not just in tight.

It's a lot safe to file the drop-outs. I've heard them filing motors on the Swytch forum. I know Swytch used different motors over the years. I'm not too sure which ones they're filing, but if yo have a normal AKM100 with a straight axle, I wouldn't recommend it. Don't forget that the axle is...

The easiest way to deal with a separate controller is to put it in an under the seat toolbag. Mine's sat there hapily for ten years.

There are KT controllers for Hailong batteries. They have the sealed connectors, so you need a new display, throttle, pedal sensor, LCD and 1 into 4 cable to go with it. The connectors on your bike are wired in a different sequence to KT.

If that's what you want it for, a cheap electric bike will be fine. Look at the Eleglide M1 or M2. Note that there are different versions with different sized batteries, and some have desirable hydraulic brakes. Try and get one with at least 12Ah battery and hydraulic brakes. If money is tight...

The court ruled that what you see doesn't prove that the dems cheated. The court never said that the video didn't show cheating. What common sense shows you to be the truth is not sufficient to convict anyone. In this case, the court and the prosecutor were known to have been crooked, so the...

The switch switches the battery output on and off using the output MOSFETs. It's very difficult to get an acceptable solution with an external switch, so it's a very desirable feature, though there are other ways to add a switch to a BMS that doesn't have the pads for one.

Look with your own eyes and ask yourself what you see. There's a vote counting house, where there are none of the normal observers, which ties up with them having been sent out because of the leak, in which case, why are those people still there? People are pulling shopping trolleys out from...

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