Search results

It's only a possibility that it's anything to do with the sensor, but checking that area will also give you the opportunity to check the tightness of the final drive screws. One of mine was loose. This isn't a picture of mine, but I swiped it from the net to show you what I'm on about.

I have read a few reports of owners having similar problems and upon opening the drive unit, finding the PAS sensor disc broken apart. My own experience on this, is when checking inside the unit to grease the nylon gear, I found mine to be cracked. Mine doesn't cause any PAS issues though, but...

Hi Lou and welcome to the forum. I doubt you'll find many fans of electric scooters on here, but ebikes, yes.

Before you go through the, not so easy, procedure of a strip down. Take the chain off the chainring and turn the pedals, just to make sure it's not something else in the drivetrain that's causing the issue.

Well I never. All this talk of bottom brackets, made me go and check mine. My usual check is to just give the motor a good hard tug, to test for movement. On this occasion though, I actually used my tool (no sniggering) to check the tightness, and both lockrings were loose. I had originally...

Ok Obi-Wan :D

I've got an 8 speed cassette on my BBS02 :rolleyes:

What you got, hub motor or crank drive?

D8veh's perfectly correct. The bracket has knurls on one side to bite into the bottom bracket face. The motor will move about under power if the bracket isn't locked down tight to the actual bottom bracket. Also, use the proper tool to tighten the outer lock ring. The inner one is ok to cowboy...

Ok, so this article is on a vape website, but then again, a battery doesn't care if it's getting a 10 amp discharge from a vape pen or an electric bike battery. https://vaporhq.com/blog/tutorials/best-18650-batteries-for-vaping

I think the 'Keep Current(%)' works this way. It reduces the current to a percentage, as d8veh mentions, after an initial surge. This percentage is a user defined parameter in the 'Pedal Assist' tab in the Bafang software. Now this is where is can get tricky. It doesn't just reduce it to a...

You'll find that the 'Keep Current' level in the controller software can cause this. When the motor gets up to speed, the software limits the current available to the motor, by the percentage set in the controller software. This can have a weird negative effect of giving less power, when the...

I reckon if you want to go the display-less route, then use the programming cable to program the default level, just to see if you're happy with using one PAS level. I wouldn't try activating the controller using his jumper method. Too much chance of blowing something.

I've fired off an e-mail to them to confirm, coz if it is metal, I'll be pressing that 'buy' button pronto :)

All the Bafang cables have Higo connectors, which are fully waterproof. That should just leave the battery dock to Bafang power cables. I slipped some adhesive lined shrink tubing over one of the cables, soldered them together, then slipped the shrink tube over the joint and shrunk it with the...

Ehhh??? Am I missing something here, no mention of it being alloy o_O

How'd you guess :oops:

For the BBSxx series? Got a link for that?

BBS01 should be fine. You can use a programming cable with these motors to tweak a bit more performance out of them, without compromising reliability.

Sounds like it's pretty much the same as the brake cut-off, oh well :( I did away with others custom .el files and tweaked the settings to my liking.