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Not sure you'll get a reply from the OP, as this is a 3 year old thread and t1sugar has only posted 15 messages in all that time. Have you tried connecting to the controller with a cable and software, to see if the controller is still functional?

Totally agree. I think how a rider uses their bike may be a factor too. If they are just using the bike for road and light trail rides, then I think the stock spring would suit a wider weight range. But if you are hammering along nasty trails, with tree roots and rocks etc., then a heavier rider...

Just thought I'd post some info about the spring ratings. They come with the medium spring, so the blue or red spring needs to be purchased separately! Aftermarket spring kit for NCX Seat Post Soft blue spring is rated for 140lbs or less Medium (stock) spring is rated for 140lbs to 180lbs...

I'm 72kg and the standard spring has been fine for me too.

After a bit of umming and ahing about whether a suspension seatpost is a worthy investment, and whether it should be a Thudbuster or a Suntour type, I found the Suntour on eBay for a great price. I pressed fire and it was delivered a few days ago. After fitting and a few runs of approximately...

+1 on the heat shrink. I use the adhesive lined tubing, which gives additional protection against water ingression.

..... and there was me thinking it was d8veh :rolleyes: Welcome back though and good to hear about Marchant :)

Just so forum users don't get confused, you do not need the programming cable to set the number of PAS levels. See following link for info: https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/change-the-bafang-bbsxx-pas-range-go-on-you-might-like-it.21245/ You will require the programming cable to adjust...

Either use one of the gensor shift sensors, as MontyPAS suggested, or fit a brake cut-off sensor and blip the brake lever when changing gear. I find it odd that you say the motor overruns when you stop pedaling. I don't find this the case for me and the reason why I either use the brake-cut off...

I've had mine set at 100% since the beginning (approx 8k miles). It doesn't mean I'm getting full beans all the time, as my PAS levels 1-4 are programmed for lower speed and current limit. Only on PAS 5 is it programmed for 100% speed and current limit. Not had any issues running my bike like...

From my experience with programming my BBS02, I would say that there is no 'one size fits all' program out there. It's a case of tweaking, then road testing, tweaking some more, and road testing until you are happy with the results. There are a few generic tweaks across the BBSxx controller...

Have you tried reprogramming it with a cable, to achieve what you're after? I don't see the point in an after-market controller, as the BBSHD is already plenty powerful and refined, with the right software tweaks

Good solid, reliable batteries. I've got one of their 48v packs and it's pretty damn good. A tiny bit more top end speed and slightly more efficient, but not a game changer over a 48v pack. Buy one and enjoy!

The only potential problem I've heard of, is trying to use a BBSHD, with the 48v firmware, with a 52v battery. Apparently it can throw up an overvolt code. This issue can be solved by uploading the correct 52v firmware to the controller, which can be done via a programming cable. The same cable...

I don't want to turn this into a political thread, but think about the future and the likelihood of the bike being off the road whilst repair work is being done. Whilst we all like to think that our bikes will go on and on without fault, it's a sad fact that they are not always that reliable...

1. Lekkie bling rings 2. The programming cable 3. The gear shift sensor 4. Eggrider LCD and programmable system 5. Lekkie buzz bars 6. Installation and maintenance tool 7. AeroShell Grease 22 (for final drive regreasing) 8. DPC-14 colour display (the voltage and current reading is a useful...

On my third controller. Original one had the crappy MOSFET problem and blew fairly quickly into the unit's life. Second one with improved MOSFETs blew, but lasted alot longer. Now on third and touching wood. Not that wood, you perves :oops: Apart from that, no other major issues! I'm running a...

Great technical advice from Woosh, I'm sure you'll have your problem solved soon :)

I agree with vfr400. It looks to be a direct drive motor and probably hall sensorless controller. It's likely got confused on which way to turn on start-up. Have you tried contacting the seller for info on the problem?

As it's a mid drive, you may need nothing more than something like this to do general maintenance. Bike stand