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That's more or less the same as what you already have. It's a large heavy direct drive motor, and the controller that's supplied with it is really crappy. Pedal assist will be useless because there's no way to regulate the power from it.

Did you try this: https://www.parcelmonkey.co.uk/delivery-services/large-heavy-parcels

It depends what you're trying to achieve - range, hill-climbing, speed, efficiency, weight, etc. The one you have is bad for weight, range, efficiency and hill-climbing.

So you might have two batteries and still no working bike.

I'd find out first. If it is 470 rpm, it'll be useless.

You still haven't checked the gap between your forks. You're wasting your time until you have! What are you planning to do for a brake with those motors you just suggested? Are you planning on changing the forks? 30NM in a 20" wheel is the same as 43.5NM in a 29" one.

Yes, that's 4 instances of that thing breaking in the last year. i guess we have to add it to the list of known faults with those bikes. For most people, this problem is going to be unfixable. There are flats on the other side of the axle, so you might be able to fit a torque arm there and...

When you have something like that, it's almost impossible to send from your home as they need a lifting device to get it on the truck and it would need to be on an approved pallet of some sort. The best way to send it is to find a friendly small business that despatches items of similar weight...

Yes. You've selected the 1 to 2 cable. Personally, I'd go for the 1 to 4 with a throttle. A throttle is very useful, and contrary to what a lot of people think, it is completely legal if you set it to non-zero start in the LCD. If you ever have an emergency that prevents you from pedalling, it...

It might be worth asking Suntour if they can help. Show them the photo of the broken part: SR SUNTOUR EUROPE GmbH (European headquarter) Sales, Customer Support and Technical Services Riedstrasse 31 83627 Warngau Germany Tel: +49 (0)8021 50793-0 Fax: +49 (0)8021 50793-29 Email...

You don't need any special skill to fix these sort of problems. determination and advice from here is enough. Like Steven said, start with that controller compartment. The motor phase wires are the thick blue yellow and green wires that have crappy bullet connectors, which can cause the wires to...

The two extra wires are probably for a temperature or speed sensor. You should have followed them to see where they went. Whatever they're for, you can't use them for anything useful. There are some settings in the LCD that might improve the rough running. Did you set P1= number of magnets in...

It depends what it's connected to. Follow it up to see where it goes. In the meantime, you should strip back a bit of the black insulation and separate whatever is inside so that the wires can't touch

It looks OK, but they sem to be a bit confused about the motor's RPM. They say 470 rpm (35 mph), which would be too fast to be efficient, then they say 38-40km/h, which would be 313 rpm in a 26" wheel.

What do you mean that you get voltage to the controller? You have to check the value of the voltage. It would have to be at least 41v for it to work, but even then only if the battery is good. if you only get 42v fully charged, something is seriously wrong. 42v is the voltage for a 36v battery...

As I said, a new motor would be better and cheaper.

Resolder the wires on the back of the key-switch. Use plenty of heat because there's a lot of metal in the terminals. If it's not that, it's a simple connection issue. You just have to find it. Maybe check the bullet connectors at the controller first. Other than that, you have to get the...

"250w is a power rating. So saying you want the most powerful 250 watt motor is like saying you want the heaviest 10 pound weight. " I don't agree with that at all. Some 250w rated motors are very powerful indeed, others are completely useless. The 250w rating is just a label on the motor for...

Some people have done that, but it's quite complicated. You have to chuck everything other than the battery and motor, then wire in the new controller, install a new pedal sensor, etc.

Your controller is running hot because it's obly rated at 7A, but because of the motor's speed rating and lack of torque, it's running at maximum current (15A) most of the time. The best solution would be to get a new motor rather than a controller. If you want to carry on with that motor, a...