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With these Chinese suppliers, sometimes you need to negotiate in a diplomatic way. A good solution would be to buy a replacement from them at a discounted price and sell on your 36v kit so that the price you pay for the replacement is close to the price you get for the 36v one. I did that with a...

The Kalkhoff Integrale had an Alfine 11 speed, and that motor was quite torquey, so it should be OK. You're right about problems with Alfine IGHs and crank motors, but it's the 5 and 7 speed ones that can give problems. Generally 8 speed is recommended over the 11 speed because with the power...

As both wires are soldered next to each other and they both go directly to adjacent pins on the CPU. I'm going to stick my neck out and say that they're Tx and Rx and it's a digital control panel. See if you can expose that label before making a final decision on what replacement to get. It's...

That's an easy one to adjust. That shunt (staple-like thing) is a resistor. The CPU in the controller measures the voltage on either side of it. When current flows through it, the voltage drops on one side in proportion to the current, so the CPU knows how much current is flowing and uses that...

I was hoping it would be a 4-wire one because 5-wire ones can be analogue or digital. OK, we're going to have to find out. There are two ways. either way you have to follow the green and yellow wires to where they're soldered either in the controller or in the control panel. As the the panel...

It's vaguely possible that your motor cable might be contributing to the rough running. I can't say that it is because I don't know enough about high frequency pulses, but I do know that the Chinese wouldn't use expensive PTFE coated 30 amp cable if they didn't have to. I have run a sensorless...

So, you had a problem, we started helping you, then you abandoned us to go on other forums to listen to guys that don't have a clue, then spent money on a so-called electric bike mechanic, who doesn't even know the basics of fixing electric bikes. Now you're back here again asking us to waste...

I'm no genius and very bad at logic, but could it be that you have a faulty LCD?

It would be best if you show a picture of it and a picture of the connector. In the meantime, you can restore basic function of your bike by disconnecting the control panel and bridging the red and blue wires in the connector with a paper clip or something like that. If your controller and...

You need an LCD with a KT controller. LCD4 is the smallest. The LCD is the on/off switch, but you need it to do the settings and select power levels.

You need to show us a picture of the brake switch and how you installed it.

You only need one brake sensor. you can get ones that go in the cable, so they would work with a hub or roller brake. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152948251063?hash=item239c6d19b7:g:rdQAAOSwNbFarNau If you have or get a KT controller, you don't really need brake sensors because it's response is...

Was it switched on when the green wire touched?

You can use any of the regular standard Chinese controllers. Some are better that others. the more you pay, the more you get. Are you happy with soldering and wiring? It might be worth telling us about what's wrong with your bike and how it started unless you're certain that it's the controller...

They're all much of a muchness. The bigger they are, the more robust they are, but they're heavier too. The Q128H (up to 7 speed) or Q128C (8 spd or more) are very good, though not legal, but you have to buy them from China (BMDBattery, Topbikekit, Greenbikekit). Without special requirements...

1. If the wheel is turning backwards with power, then you've put the wheel in the forks the wrong way round because the clutch only works in one direction. 2. If you can hold the wheel, stationary with two fingers while the motor whirrs, then it's an electrical issue. Can you tell us which of...

Did you talk to Wisper about their bad batch of LCDs?

Don't think that it's going to go 35 mph because it has a 470 rpm motor. If that's what it is, it's for a 20" wheel. In a big wheel, it won't have the torque nor efficiency to be any use at normal speeds, and you need about 1250w of output power to reach 35 mph whatever motor you have, which...

You can use virtually any geared front motor you want. the bigger the diameter, the more robust they are. For 15 mph, you need around 300- 330 rpm in a 20" wheel. For any other speed, you need rpm in proportion. That's important.