Search results

I don't think so. It is one of two solutions on the market aimed at a lighter form of ebike than the typical 22kg+ of a 'standard' mid-drive, torque sensing bike. The main feature is a smaller than typical battery, because the working assumption is that the rider will not use assistance all the...

You are describing a torque sensor bike, so yes, it does exist. Three choices: 1. Off the shelf mid drive bike with motor from the well known big name manufacturers Bosch, Shimano, Yamaha. Lots of decent bikes with good battery sizes these days for considerably less money than a couple of...

Front hub in a different fork?

That bend is highly loaded, and simple bodge repairs are not going to work. The load needs taking away from the corner, which can be done using a fairly large triangular support plate. If you have the tools then you could try this. I would use aluminium sheet, 2mm thick is probably...

Simple: forget the word 'throttle' which does not appear in the law, and work from the wording that is there. As stated in earlier posts, no power without pedalling above 6km/h.

My neck of the woods, not seen anything of that. As a lone traveller I have charged at several cafes and pubs on that route outside of the solar season, a group might have more trouble in the busy season.

When you say PCB removed do you mean there is no BMS? Is this battery now just the cells and the red and black cables? If so I strongly suggest at minimum you fit a fuse, otherwise short circuit means battery fire.

4.2.4.1(d) 'The assistance shall be progressively and smoothly managed' would seem to outlaw many low end speed control bikes.

I would expect the axle to be a single piece of metal, so twist under load begins to look like what has happened. I would be concerned that so much twist may be close to failure, and failure whilst riding might have undesirable consequences. My curious side would want to strip it down to bare...

What's the history of this? Have the motor and bike have not always been together? Or has something changed? The flats should always be machined in the same orientation both ends, so: 1. It was a serious manufacturing error, or 2. The axle has twisted in use, or 3. The axle has snapped, or...

That sounds pretty normal: 68mm is a standard width and the bore is around 33mm, so yes sounds fine.

I wouldn't worry about 4 wheel braking to start with, put that on the enhancements list so that it doesn't 'slow you down'. (Didn't see that coming!) The legal requirement is two independent braking systems, not brakes on all wheels. My tadpole has independent front brakes which work very...

It's only the law, so probably only intended for guidance.

I'm sure Wisper will be able to help. Is it the 806T, with torque sensor, which responds to your input?

I suspect if the answer is not clear to you, then it doesn't matter in your case. I would err towards the larger option for me, but I am L / XL at 183cm and long legs. As long as the saddle goes high enough, the reach can be tuned with stem change if need be. For longer rides you might find you...

Damping uses oil not air. Adjustment must be controlling size of hole between two internal spaces.

This sounds plausible... https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/why-some-motor-inhibitor-has-3-pin-and-some-has-2pin.39769/

Did you roll your wheel with normal riding load applied? Could be a few mm of radius error!

When aluminium is welded, it needs to be heat treated afterwards, otherwise strength in the vicinity of the weld is reduced. Straightforward during production, not so easy after a repair. The most common failure with aluminium parts is fatigue, and that always starts at a stress concentration...

It looks like aluminium, so it has probably failed due to a fatigue crack originating at the inside of the bend. I would add a support hoop from the lower mounting bolts each side up to the rearmost bolt under the battery. Stainless steel strip, about 25 or 30 mm wide, maybe 3mm thick.