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Someone will recognise it!

Yes, that's how it looks. Are there any markings or engravings or labels on the motor?

I'm impressed by the capability of modern cordless power tools, and by the use of a common battery across the range of tools...as long as you commit to one of the quality brands, or the increasingly capable Lidl range. Two batteries and a quick charger support my whole range of tools, and with...

As there are only three phases, this cannot go too badly wrong! Each phase is adjacent to all (I.e. both) of the others, so the worst that can happen is that your big motor phase wires are in the wrong sequence relative to the hall sensors. That can be resolved after rebuild by trying all the...

Lateral statistic: A city of 8.9 million, managing with 8.6 thousand buses. One bus per thousand inhabitants. Sounds quite efficient compared to 2.6 million cars, one per 3 inhabitants!

They are great for all my USB-C chargeable accessories, 3A is enough for that. Beware of the high voltage limit, my first one was 80V in the listing and marked as such, but recent second one was listed as 50V but marked 36. So far OK on my 36V bike, which is 42V when fully charged...

The one I linked will give you a fixed, regulated output voltage, and up to their max claimed current, provided the input voltage is high enough, and input can supply enough current. There is no difference at the output if you increase the input voltage: it is a DC-DC converter, not a transformer.

I haven't looked for a guide, which doesn't mean there isn't one, but all you are proposing is to connect two batteries in series. Experiments don't get much simpler than that. If you are not confident that you understand what's going on, then my advice is always don't do it.

An unusual approach, but as far as the motor and controller are concerned I can't see any complete 'no go' red flags. The display may be an issue, it needs to be happy with the supply voltage, and the battery capacity indicator will be wrongly calibrated. As long as the maximum current is OK...

5v 8a..... I'd be looking for a way to use more v and less a, take a feed from main battery voltage and control by mosfet or relay. I have a 3a 5v DC-DC converter, not seen anywhere near 8a. This one claims input voltage of up to 50v. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196009222777 My non- flashing...

Looking at the spec for the eleglides in #12, they are 'speed control' with 5 levels. Where does one need to look to get the generally regarded as better KT style 'current control' on an entry level bike, or does that simply not exist?

Lots of end of season decent bikes around for about twice your budget, having been reduced from four times it. You might be better looking there. 20 miles a day, day in day out, needs something better than bottom of the heap.

Yes, if it is a 'dumb' battery with just red + and black - wires to the controller. Ah is capacity, effectively the size of your 'fuel tank', so 20 Ah will give a lot more range than 12 Ah.

Bit of a broad question! Do you have a specific use case for which you'd like recommendations? Most of the bikes I come into contact with here are mid-drives, a mix of Shimano, Bosch and Yamaha, but most don't do many miles, so unless dropped in a canal will probably last many years. No...

My curiosity forced me to find data sheets and look for a reason for the different middle hall sensor. Turns out the 463 is available in two forms, 463A and 463AN, and they react oppositely to N and S magnet poles. The 461 seems only to be in A form, so the 463AN in the middle is there because...

Looks like it matters then!

The white one is a 463AN, often only part of a part number is written on the case... Why different? Perhaps low stock on the 461s when the board was made?

I'm guessing you have brake cutoffs, and whatever was turned off when the sensor operated reduced the load on the battery enough for the voltage to creep up enough to register as just into two bars instead of not quite. The bars are a primitive voltmeter, so the display will fluctuate as load...

One route, although an awful lot of trouble, would be to buy a pcb of the wrong arc, cut it into pieces and then reassemble at the correct arc and spacing, resolder the pcb tracks as needed.... It just might be better to buy a sensored motor, although I'm all in favour of learning by doing...

Whether it is end of season or end of Ridgeback I don't know, but quite a few models at roughly half original price. That moves my X2 from a triumph of marketing over specification to quite good value at £1,399. Two years ago they were £2,699. Before rushing in, remember it is bottom of the...