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A quick search suggests this is a hub motor, so crank should just be standard bike components, so just needs a normal crank arm puller. Remove the dust cover, use a standard socket of the right size to undo the bolt, then screw in the puller and off the crank will come. Your chain will be...

I'm not familiar with the system in detail. Perhaps someone is... It is not clear to me if the motor is just a normal hub motor or whether there is more going on inside it than normal. This dongle that fits in the motor cable looks like the normal 9 pin wiring, and presumably works using the...

There is a very particular niche requirement which I and probably many others have, and for which there is not yet a perfect solution. I can no longer manage the small proportion of serious uphill riding without assistance. I just wouldn't ride at all in my hilly neck of the woods without...

You need to

Yes you need a simple cheap multimeter, costing less than £10 from say Screwfix. There are test procedures online. Google ebikes.ca mosfet test

It is a direct drive motor, unsuited to off road and steep hills. It is intended for relatively high speed cruising on relatively flat tarmac roads. Not really any overlap with your intended use.

There are two forces to be considered, and they will have been formally analysed during design. 1. At the headstock. 2. Equal and opposite reaction to force developed between brake pads and disc. Both of these act at far greater distance from the axle centre, and unlike the motor, neither...

It will be fine until it isn't. The dropouts of a non-electric bike are not designed to resist torque. Their ability to do so is qualitatively a happy accident, and quantitatively dependent on material properties. Every application of torque forces the edge of the axle flat against the...

What a shame we are never likely to see two teams of pedants in wigs fight it out!

More of a blag than a defence! In the exceptionally unlikely event of such a case being brought, the probably unprovable lie about the GPS would probably count as perverting the course of justice.

In the as yet highly unlikely scenario of being checked, neither of these methods would be legally watertight. The 10% allows for imperfect accuracy in the equipment, not deliberately incorrect parameter settings.

Pedalling at 30km/h is all very well on a lightweight bike using the drop bars. Once you are sitting upright with straight bars it becomes much harder aerodynamically, so I'd be tempted to put less weight on that part of your brief and instead concentrate on something that keeps you up at 25...

It is a big job to open up the motor and replace hall sensors, but take it in small steps and ask for help here when you need it, and it can be done. It will almost certainly be cheaper to replace the motor than pay a bike shop to fix the hall sensors.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/e53YyT3QweHaKJr89

250Wh, half or less than most new bikes today. 30 miles on 15 to 20% of that suggests a woefully inaccurate system, such as a simple voltage measurement. Have you ridden it to empty to see maximum range? I don't know the system's innards, but if it is 'generic' there is a chance you could...

Small battery: compared to larger battery, will be spending more time at lower state of charge. Hub motor: compared to mid-drive will be spending more time under higher load. Not surprising that lifetime is lower.

You've probably realised this already, but just in case not... The cable damage has probably lead to hall sensor failure, so fixing the cable will not fix the problem. The cable is too knackered to sensibly repair and reuse, so you can be quite brutal with it to diagnose the problems: cut out...

Too expensive for me, and needs a 21700 version to make sense. If you had variants using different numbers of cells in each cell group, that would be even more useful, say 2p of 21700. In a minimum size case. Interesting that you have tackled the CAN bus protocols. Give me a 21700 version for...

Steps is really simple, and often if you need a replacement part you may find one on Ebay. Everything plugs into the motor. There are three cables, the big four way one from battery mount, and two small ones from speed sensor and display. I would not bother trying to understand the fault in...

I would apply a heavy duty transparent adhesive tape over the existing panel. Perhaps a couple of localised small pieces over the buttons, and an all over cover on top. There is a 3M product that I used to seal between the solar panels on my solar trailer, which survives about 3,000 miles of...