Yosepower hub kits.

[Olleman]

It would be good if you could find the specifications for your gear reduction ratio and number of magnets for both P1 and P2.

I know a lot of people say P1 only affects the displayed speed and P2 should be set to 0. But when I set mine up properly I got a noticeable improvement in performance. In fact I now find PAS 5 way to high for normal running about and I use PAS 1 without the throttle now for normal cruising and I only switch to PAS 5 when I’m cycling on A roads and still don’t need the throttle.

Before changing P1 and P2 I was using PAS 5 and throttle all of the time.

I did a bit of digging about and there was a mention that the yose gear reduction is 4.3:1 with 20 magnets and that works out at 86 which you say gives an incorrect speed. But was your P2 set at 0?

161 seems to be a most peculiar number for such a small motor.

Aikema web page doesn't have any of the more technical details of the hub, I'll try emailing them as well as yose power.

I tried setting P1 back to 86 and P2=0 and that resulted in a reported max speed of about 40 km/h but the actual speed was about the same as before with P1=86 which was about 20 km/h(ish)

I actually found a german forum where the akm 95rx was discussed in combination with the KT controller. They reached the same P1 value as me....perhaps this hub is just that bad...?

 

[Olleman]

Hello folks. The wheel hub which cames with my Lishui kit works with my kt lcd and controller. Both throttle and pas work. Code number on this Lishui wheel is 95rx. rc250 which when googled comes up being an aikema hub motor.

Hopefully this is useful to those whose kt kit wheel stops working.

What's your experience with this wheel and KT controller? What settings did you use?

 

[Nealh]

The 95rx is afaik only a oem hub.
Also the RPM as the internal reduction differs with models and rpm winding.
The AKM 100 has at least three different reduction figures .

The issue you experience is down to P1 value not being correct.

What I would try is setting the odo for 25kmh along with a GPS and test ride as it needs a proper load speed, adjust PI until the odo reads 25kmh and GPS concurs. Then one can set the odo to waht they wish knowing the true speed will read near correct.
It may be a case the motor was wound for a smaller wheel or is an unusually low wound rpm.

 

[Olleman]

The 95rx is afaik only a oem hub.
Also the RPM as the internal reduction differs with models and rpm winding.
The AKM 100 has at least three different reduction figures .

The issue you experience is down to P1 value not being correct.

What I would try is setting the odo for 25kmh along with a GPS and test ride as it needs a proper load speed, adjust PI until the odo reads 25kmh and GPS concurs. Then one can set the odo to waht they wish knowing the true speed will read near correct.
It may be a case the motor was wound for a smaller wheel or is an unusually low wound rpm.

Hmmm how is this diffrrent from what I have allready done? I rode with a GPS and changed p1 until they showed the same. I kept the bike at 30 km/h but it seemed to be correct at other speeds as well?

 

[AGS]

I would be tempted to open up the motor and start counting magnets and number of the the on the gears, but I can understand if you don’t want to do that.

Also I don’t think P2 should be at 0 either. You must have at least one magnet for the wheel speed sensoring.

 

[Nealh]

P2 will usually be 1 or 6 , but believe most AKM only use one speed magnet.

 

[Outdoorhans]

Hi,
I want to buy a Yosepower kit. Is it safe to buy from their website or should I order it through eBay?

 

[Cadence]

Hi,
I want to buy a Yosepower kit. Is it safe to buy from their website or should I order it through eBay?

I ordered from the UK website and received my kit in three days. The prices seem to be cheaper than ebay as well. Very quick email replies to technical queries. Kit fitted and working well.

 

[Downward]

Posted in the wrong place but any idea what size magnets I need for the brake sensors ?

 

[Peter.Bridge]

my questions answered by Yose Power


Hello, I am thinking of buying a 350w rear hub conversion kit of your website. I had 3 questions 1) in the description section under the motor details, the cassette motor max torque is roughly 10Nm higher than the freewheel motor, is that correct? (I might choose a donor bike that has a rear hub cassette if so) 2) in the controller motor assist levels, are the assist levels a % of the motor power or are they speed based ? Eg assist level 1 is 20% power, level 2 is 40% power etc or assist level 1 is up to 10 km/h , level 2 is up to 15 km/h etc 3) Could I use this motor and controller with a 48v battery? What settings would I need to change ?
Thanks for your help


YOSE POWER

Hello,
1. the torque of cassette motor is more than freewheel motor kit. It is correct. Actually you need to check does your bike have freewheel or cassette firstly.
2. The assist levers are based speed.
3. Sorry, 48V battery isn't suitable with our 36V motor kit. The controller or motor can be burnt.

 

[saneagle]

my questions answered by Yose Power


Hello, I am thinking of buying a 350w rear hub conversion kit of your website. I had 3 questions 1) in the description section under the motor details, the cassette motor max torque is roughly 10Nm higher than the freewheel motor, is that correct? (I might choose a donor bike that has a rear hub cassette if so) 2) in the controller motor assist levels, are the assist levels a % of the motor power or are they speed based ? Eg assist level 1 is 20% power, level 2 is 40% power etc or assist level 1 is up to 10 km/h , level 2 is up to 15 km/h etc 3) Could I use this motor and controller with a 48v battery? What settings would I need to change ?
Thanks for your help


YOSE POWER

Hello,
1. the torque of cassette motor is more than freewheel motor kit. It is correct. Actually you need to check does your bike have freewheel or cassette firstly.
2. The assist levers are based speed.
3. Sorry, 48V battery isn't suitable with our 36V motor kit. The controller or motor can be burnt.

I think you're misunderstanding something. You can't tie down the torque of a motor. What you see in any listing is meaningless. The torque given is more or less directly proportional to the current given to it, which is determined by the controller.

The main difference between geared hub-motors is the internal reduction ratio, where you can trade speed for torque. If you have two motors with identical cores, but different internal ratios, the higher torque one will have a lower top speed. You can take advantage of that by running a higher voltage to claim back the speed.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

I think you're misunderstanding something. You can't tie down the torque of a motor. What you see in any listing is meaningless. The torque given is more or less directly proportional to the current given to it, which is determined by the controller.

The main difference between geared hub-motors is the internal reduction ratio, where you can trade speed for torque. If you have two motors with identical cores, but different internal ratios, the higher torque one will have a lower top speed. You can take advantage of that by running a higher voltage to claim back the speed.

Yes - seemed a bit strange - on the listing on the Yose Power website all the freewheel hub conversion kits had significantly lower torques quoted to the the cassette conversion kits - even for the same nominal wattage

 

[average_ebike_user]

Did anyone try this kit: https://yosepower.com/collections/e-bike-conversion-kit-with-battery/products/36v-250w-28-700c-front-motor-kit-with-36v-13ah-rear-battery-with-rack-and-charger ?

I have installed this. The problem is that the kit is currently useless, because I have difficulties turning on the display and making it stay on. The display only turns on when I connect the battery, the power button doesn't work. Unless I spin the front wheel, the display says "AP 0000" at startup and quickly turns off. When I do spin the front wheel, the display turns on normally, but I cannot adjust any settings, and after a short while, the display turns off and can't be turned on from the power button. Thus I haven't been able to test the motor itself.

I am currently discussing this with Yose Power customer service, and hopefully we will find a solution. It is interesting, that this kit has a different display from the other ones, and that the battery has a button for the LED indicators, but not a 0/1 switch. I will let you know what was the outcome, but I'd be interested if anyone else had similar problems.

 

[saneagle]

Yes - seemed a bit strange - on the listing on the Yose Power website all the freewheel hub conversion kits had significantly lower torques quoted to the the cassette conversion kits - even for the same nominal wattage

If You have two similar kits with the same battery and controller, and each kit has similar motors with similar windings, but one has a higher reduction ratio than the other, that one will make more torque, but have a lower top speed.. If the two motors can do 24 mph and 20 mph, and you restrict them to 15 mph. The only difference you'd see is the torque. On the other hand, if the two motors have the same reduction ratio, the torque would be the same.

 

[saneagle]

Did anyone try this kit: https://yosepower.com/collections/e-bike-conversion-kit-with-battery/products/36v-250w-28-700c-front-motor-kit-with-36v-13ah-rear-battery-with-rack-and-charger ?

I have installed this. The problem is that the kit is currently useless, because I have difficulties turning on the display and making it stay on. The display only turns on when I connect the battery, the power button doesn't work. Unless I spin the front wheel, the display says "AP 0000" at startup and quickly turns off. When I do spin the front wheel, the display turns on normally, but I cannot adjust any settings, and after a short while, the display turns off and can't be turned on from the power button. Thus I haven't been able to test the motor itself.

I am currently discussing this with Yose Power customer service, and hopefully we will find a solution. It is interesting, that this kit has a different display from the other ones, and that the battery has a button for the LED indicators, but not a 0/1 switch. I will let you know what was the outcome, but I'd be interested if anyone else had similar problems.

Did you tie down the cable with cable ties too tight so that you damaged the cable?

I don't understand some of what you're saying. of course the LCD only turns on when you connect the battery because that's where it gets its power from. If you're spinning the wheel backwards, it becomes a generator, so it will power the controller and the LCD, but only until you stop and a short bit of time afterwards while the capacitor drains down.

The power goes from the battery to the motor, but is blocked by the controller, which acts as a throttle. A small branch comes from the battery wires inside the controller and goes to the LCD to power it. When you press the power button on the LCD, the LCD switches on and the LCD connects a power wire that goes back to the controller to power it. When the controller gets its power from the LCD, it will then respond to the pedal sensor, throttle and LCD settings to open the gates that control the power from the battery wires to the motor.

If the LCD doesn't switch on, it's normally because it's not getting any power from the battery, which means one of these causes: No connection between the battery and controller; the battery is switched off; or the connection between the controller and LCD is interupted. The LCD can't get power from the motor when you spin it in the last case, so you can eliminate that one.

Are you sure that the battery doesn't have a switch underneath it?

 

[average_ebike_user]

Did you tie down the cable with cable ties too tight so that you damaged the cable?

I am very much surprised if that is the case. I didn't see any damage on the cables and the connectors are fine too.

Are you sure that the battery doesn't have a switch underneath it?

Yose told me that the button next to the LEDs is the switch (see the attachment). I haven't seen any other buttons on the battery. This seems weird to me, because most other batteries seem to have two buttons: one for the LEDs and another 0/1 switch.

I don't understand some of what you're saying. of course the LCD only turns on when you connect the battery because that's where it gets its power from. If you're spinning the wheel backwards, it becomes a generator, so it will power the controller and the LCD, but only until you stop and a short bit of time afterwards while the capacitor drains down.

The power goes from the battery to the motor, but is blocked by the controller, which acts as a throttle. A small branch comes from the battery wires inside the controller and goes to the LCD to power it. When you press the power button on the LCD, the LCD switches on and the LCD connects a power wire that goes back to the controller to power it. When the controller gets its power from the LCD, it will then respond to the pedal sensor, throttle and LCD settings to open the gates that control the power from the battery wires to the motor.

If the LCD doesn't switch on, it's normally because it's not getting any power from the battery, which means one of these causes: No connection between the battery and controller; the battery is switched off; or the connection between the controller and LCD is interupted. The LCD can't get power from the motor when you spin it in the last case, so you can eliminate that one.

Thank you for explaining how the system works. Let me try to reformulate my experiences:

Situation 1.
- Battery has been in the rack for a while
- The button on the battery is pressed, and the LEDs turn on
- The power button on the LCD is pressed, but it doesn't turn on.

Situation 2.
- Battery is inserted to the rack
- Immediately after that, the button on the battery is pressed, and the LEDs turn on
- Without pressing any buttons, the LCD lights up, showing "AP 0000". Pressing "+" changes the numbers on the screen, but the LCD doesn't react otherwise and soon after turns off.

Situation 3.
- Battery is inserted to the rack
- Immediately after that, I spin the wheel forward and keep it spinning
- LCD turns on normally, but I cannot adjust the assist from 0 upwards. The LCD turns on and off randomly.

My guess is a bad connection in the LCD. I'd be tempted to try another LCD, but let's see what Yose replies. The LCD from their other 36V kits with the same connector type would work, right?

 

[Scorpio]

Did anyone try this kit: https://yosepower.com/collections/e-bike-conversion-kit-with-battery/products/36v-250w-28-700c-front-motor-kit-with-36v-13ah-rear-battery-with-rack-and-charger ?

<text removed>

I am currently discussing this with Yose Power customer service, and hopefully we will find a solution. It is interesting, that this kit has a different display from the other ones, and that the battery has a button for the LED indicators, but not a 0/1 switch. I will let you know what was the outcome, but I'd be interested if anyone else had similar problems.

Hi, I got a kit from Yose about 2 years ago - different to yours but they might work the same way.

On mine, the battery has 1 button and 1 key lock.
The key on the battery is not an on/off switch, all it does is secures the battery to the bike (but for things to work, the battery has to be fully "clicked" into place, then locked with the key to stop it shaking loose). The battery has tp be firmly in place or the key won;t turn to lock it).
To turn the bike on, I hold the button on the display marked "I/O" for a few seconds (a quick press does nothing).
Try turning your key then try again - some (non-Yose) bike have 3 key positions, unlocked (you can remove the battery), locked but turned off (for secure storage), locked and turned on (ready to ride). Does you key have 2 positions or 3?

When you press the button on the battery, does the display on the battery show fully charged?
Plug your charger in but don't connect it to the battery - the light on the charger should be green.
Then plug the charger into the battery - light should turn red while the battery is charging and go green when battery is charged.
Does this all look ok when you check?

The kit I got has been great and has covered many miles in the 2 years since I bought it, I rate Yose highly for good value reliable kits - but since buying mine I have found other systems that I prefer.

Hope the info helps, keep us updated.

 

[saneagle]

I am very much surprised if that is the case. I didn't see any damage on the cables and the connectors are fine too.

Yose told me that the button next to the LEDs is the switch (see the attachment). I haven't seen any other buttons on the battery. This seems weird to me, because most other batteries seem to have two buttons: one for the LEDs and another 0/1 switch.

Thank you for explaining how the system works. Let me try to reformulate my experiences:

Situation 1.
- Battery has been in the rack for a while
- The button on the battery is pressed, and the LEDs turn on
- The power button on the LCD is pressed, but it doesn't turn on.

Situation 2.
- Battery is inserted to the rack
- Immediately after that, the button on the battery is pressed, and the LEDs turn on
- Without pressing any buttons, the LCD lights up, showing "AP 0000". Pressing "+" changes the numbers on the screen, but the LCD doesn't react otherwise and soon after turns off.

Situation 3.
- Battery is inserted to the rack
- Immediately after that, I spin the wheel forward and keep it spinning
- LCD turns on normally, but I cannot adjust the assist from 0 upwards. The LCD turns on and off randomly.

My guess is a bad connection in the LCD. I'd be tempted to try another LCD, but let's see what Yose replies. The LCD from their other 36V kits with the same connector type would work, right?

The indicator lights on the battery are independent of any power coming out of it. They only indicate the charge level of the cell-pack.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

....I rate Yose highly for good value reliable kits - but since buying mine I have found other systems that I prefer....

Please can you expand on that, which kits and why do you prefer them ?

 

[saneagle]

Please can you expand on that, which kits and why do you prefer them ?

Please can you expand on that, which kits and why do you prefer them ?

KT controllers are much more user-friendly, both in the way they control the bike and the way you can set them up to get what you want. It's a shame Yose changed from them a few years ago.