I just ordered a new 350w rear cassette wheel and I hope I can use this with my KT controller and LCD3. Are there any settings that need to be changed in the controller with this new wheel? (My old wheel is yose power from 2019)
Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
Sounds good.
Is the new brand of motors Lishui as well as the controller? Since I've had a lot of problem with my cassette cover (picture below for reference) for my old wheel I'd like to to buy a couple of replacements right away...
The hub make is unknown and doubt it is a Yose spec'd hub, it is likely a rebranded Bafang or a clone of some sort.
The main reason why I stayed with front hubs, less to go wrong. I only purchase spares that can transfer to another motor, controller, cables etc.
Yes, you're absoloutley right. Something to think about if this hub lacks access to spare parts as well. Front hub feels a bit wrong for me though...from time to time there's quite a lot of ice and snow here in Sweden and it feels safer with the motor on the rear wheel in these conditions. Also I would really much like the added power, and speed on the 350 rated kits. But perhaps it's as easy as just ordering the 250w front hub wheel from yosepower and run it with the KT controller I have now = same power as now but what about speed?
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Front hub is my favourite if the power ratio is not too strong, my current G370 bafang is the hub I like the most out of the 5 or 6 I have used. Easy enough to pedal unassisted to about 20mph and powerful enough not to induce wheel spin.
The hub is powerful enough to tow a 100kg loaded trailer.
The hub is powerful enough to tow a 100kg loaded trailer.
HI,
Finally joined after lurking for a while as a visitor!
I've just bought a Yose 36v. 250w rear motor kit (cassette) and in the process of fitting. I bought the 250w. kit because it had black spokes to match my front wheel. I would have preferred the 350w kit but that has silver spokes. I realise that the 250w kit is "street legal" and has a 6km limit on the throttle, but would really like a full throttle. That's not possible with this kit. It has a c500 display and a JYT sine wave controller.
It looks like I could straight swap the battery carrier with the one containing a Lishui controller in the 350w kit.
Integrated Lishui Controller in Hailong Battery holder with 5 Gold-pla (yosepower.com)
It has the same Julet plugs and contacts for the battery.
Both the 250w and 350w kits have the same c500 display.
QUESTIONS?
The c500 display is sold separately by Yose, but they don't specify options so I assume it's the same for all kits without any programming by the vendor for different wattage motors?
It would appear that the Lishui controller will give a full throttle and higher max speed. I'm not bothered about a higher max speed and really bought the kit for help up the hills. I'm guessing that the higher amp rating of the Lishui controller will show an improvement over the 250w one? The display came with amps set at 13. I could gain some extra torque with the Lishui controller set at, say, 15 amps?
Finally, is this likely to work, and it it does am I putting the 250w motor under any excessive stress?
Please note that as this is a new kit I am not looking to do any other mods such as 48v. The 250w kit comes with a 36v 12.5Ah. battery - same as the 350w.
Many thanks for reading this and looking forward to any responses.
Finally joined after lurking for a while as a visitor!
I've just bought a Yose 36v. 250w rear motor kit (cassette) and in the process of fitting. I bought the 250w. kit because it had black spokes to match my front wheel. I would have preferred the 350w kit but that has silver spokes. I realise that the 250w kit is "street legal" and has a 6km limit on the throttle, but would really like a full throttle. That's not possible with this kit. It has a c500 display and a JYT sine wave controller.
It looks like I could straight swap the battery carrier with the one containing a Lishui controller in the 350w kit.
Integrated Lishui Controller in Hailong Battery holder with 5 Gold-pla (yosepower.com)
It has the same Julet plugs and contacts for the battery.
Both the 250w and 350w kits have the same c500 display.
QUESTIONS?
The c500 display is sold separately by Yose, but they don't specify options so I assume it's the same for all kits without any programming by the vendor for different wattage motors?
It would appear that the Lishui controller will give a full throttle and higher max speed. I'm not bothered about a higher max speed and really bought the kit for help up the hills. I'm guessing that the higher amp rating of the Lishui controller will show an improvement over the 250w one? The display came with amps set at 13. I could gain some extra torque with the Lishui controller set at, say, 15 amps?
Finally, is this likely to work, and it it does am I putting the 250w motor under any excessive stress?
Please note that as this is a new kit I am not looking to do any other mods such as 48v. The 250w kit comes with a 36v 12.5Ah. battery - same as the 350w.
Many thanks for reading this and looking forward to any responses.
The only setting to alter is P1 , so one expects the motor value is wrong and possibly too high or you have a really low RPM wound hub. If the latter only voltage can increase the speed.
Can you tell us what P1 is currently set at ?
Do you know the motor gearing ratio and the motor winding magnet count ?
I had a an aikema motor and the P1 was set to 234 or something like that in the display, then I swapped out the motor for my Bafang wheel so I coul dservice the hub without rushing it. Being forgetful I forgot to adust P1 and my Bafang cutout at 11mph or so and had me flummoxed for a few mins, then I looked at P1 and the light came on 'Doh'. Change it back to value 80 and all was ok again.
Can you tell us what P1 is currently set at ?
Do you know the motor gearing ratio and the motor winding magnet count ?
I had a an aikema motor and the P1 was set to 234 or something like that in the display, then I swapped out the motor for my Bafang wheel so I coul dservice the hub without rushing it. Being forgetful I forgot to adust P1 and my Bafang cutout at 11mph or so and had me flummoxed for a few mins, then I looked at P1 and the light came on 'Doh'. Change it back to value 80 and all was ok again.
It's currently set to 86. Increasing it, also increases top speed. Is it safe to set to a really high value or do I need to find the exact figure where the speed didn't increase anymore by trial and error? I have no idea what the gear ratio might be...
One can set it to what ever one likes as long as the motor works correctly , setting it to a faster speed just means the display odo and trip will never be correct and mileage will be vastly over . I expect then 100 or there abouts is the correct value for 25kmh, on ecan confirm this by using a gps to match speed reading.
For my motor I set P1 to 100 after looking up the specifications because the SWX02 motor has 20 magnets and a 5:1 gear ratio. Then I set P2 to 6 because the spec says 6 pulses per wheel cycle. I also set the wheel diameter to 29” because that’s the real diameter of the tyre when fitted, not the rim size. Interestingly Michael Blast documentation says to leave it at 26”. I don’t know what the original factory settings were for the original controller/display for P1 and P2 because users are locked out of those functions.
The speed readout seems about right to me although I haven’t checked it with GPS.
Olleman, there must be a spec sheet for your motor floating around on the internet somewhere if you know what make/model you have.
The speed readout seems about right to me although I haven’t checked it with GPS.
Olleman, there must be a spec sheet for your motor floating around on the internet somewhere if you know what make/model you have.
I did my first commute with the new hub today. I'm a bit disappointed actually. The new motor is slower, has less power, especially above 20 km/h and seems to consume qiute a lot more battery power.
With the old motor I felt that I had full power until the last 2 km/h before top speed where it would loose power until it wouldn't assist at all and I could easily cruise at 31-32 km/h with only throttle. With this motor I notice a power loss 5-8 km/h before top speed and if I even get it up to 30 km/h at full throttle it takes forever in comparison. Top speed with the wheel in mid air is 35 km/h with fully charged 36v battery. I don't really understand this. I thought that with the same controller a hub with less top speed would make up for it with more power?
Is there any other setting in the controller that could affect the performance of the motor?
With the old motor I felt that I had full power until the last 2 km/h before top speed where it would loose power until it wouldn't assist at all and I could easily cruise at 31-32 km/h with only throttle. With this motor I notice a power loss 5-8 km/h before top speed and if I even get it up to 30 km/h at full throttle it takes forever in comparison. Top speed with the wheel in mid air is 35 km/h with fully charged 36v battery. I don't really understand this. I thought that with the same controller a hub with less top speed would make up for it with more power?
Is there any other setting in the controller that could affect the performance of the motor?
It would be good if you could find the specifications for your gear reduction ratio and number of magnets for both P1 and P2.
I know a lot of people say P1 only affects the displayed speed and P2 should be set to 0. But when I set mine up properly I got a noticeable improvement in performance. In fact I now find PAS 5 way to high for normal running about and I use PAS 1 without the throttle now for normal cruising and I only switch to PAS 5 when I’m cycling on A roads and still don’t need the throttle.
Before changing P1 and P2 I was using PAS 5 and throttle all of the time.
I did a bit of digging about and there was a mention that the yose gear reduction is 4.3:1 with 20 magnets and that works out at 86 which you say gives an incorrect speed. But was your P2 set at 0?
161 seems to be a most peculiar number for such a small motor.
I know a lot of people say P1 only affects the displayed speed and P2 should be set to 0. But when I set mine up properly I got a noticeable improvement in performance. In fact I now find PAS 5 way to high for normal running about and I use PAS 1 without the throttle now for normal cruising and I only switch to PAS 5 when I’m cycling on A roads and still don’t need the throttle.
Before changing P1 and P2 I was using PAS 5 and throttle all of the time.
I did a bit of digging about and there was a mention that the yose gear reduction is 4.3:1 with 20 magnets and that works out at 86 which you say gives an incorrect speed. But was your P2 set at 0?
161 seems to be a most peculiar number for such a small motor.
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