Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
I have the 250 watt front wheel fitted to my trike. Opted for this model as I want it road legal and 10 mph is fast enough on a trike belief me. I have read you can keep you existing levers and connect a long armed micro switch to each existing lever and connect them to the existing socket that would have connected to the supplied levers . There are loads on amazon.. On my wheel it will take a disc but you have to use the supplied screws so you don’t screw into the motor. I couldn’t use this option as my forks are not wide enough.
I believe the kit will run with out the levers fitted and to be honest who going to be braking and pedalling at the same time.
i have all in one crank arms and the have taper where PAS needs to sit so I ove come this by drilling. Hole in a plastic milk bottle top and stuck it over the retaining nut and the stuck the sensor to that. Sounds like bit of a bodge but it works.
Bobbo
It's because it has a different wiring sequence. You have to swap the wires over.
Did you remove the plastic disc thing that goes on the disc mount on the wheel? That will set the disc closer to the wheel and might give you room.
The forks on my trike has such a tight opening that I had to add another washer the the hum axle to splay the the forks by a 1 1/2 millimetres.
if I were to fit a disc it would rub on the inside of the fork. To be honest the existing front brake works good enough when set up correctly and I’m only dong 10 mph tops unlike some of you guys who go careering down hills at frightening speeds.
Too scary for me. Flat roads and cycle paths are my limit with a gradient thrown in here and there.
@Bobbo1260 - Hope you don't mind my asking, but what are those stabilisers on what I assume is your trike on your profile pic? Did you install them? There was a thread a few months ago about bicycle stabilisers, threads about tricycles and their stability. I don't recall those being mentioned, but they look interesting.
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Often many don't listen to what we say as now both of us have mentioned wire sequence a likely cause.
If the connector is the moulded julet type then the pins outs may be different , one has to chop the connectors off and then marry the correct wires to each other and then PAS should work. Red /Red, Blk/ Blk and then the the pair of remaining colours are the signal, if wire colours differ we can tell you which goes to which. After that one has to set the C1 value in the display corretly to match the sensor type.
Well as long as you’ve got brake there, I’ve seen quite a few delivery riders bikes with disconnected front brakes
I’m not much of a fast rider myself, I rarely go over 15mph and when I do it’s often because I’ve got other cyclists stuck behind me!
When you say c1 value setting for the sensor, do you mean the actual sensor or the magnetic disc?
C1 is a bit of both, but first one needs to identify the sensor type used.
Basic RHS & DL types one will used settings 00 - 3 dependant on the magnet pole count.
Typically a basic 5 pole count = 00, 8 =1 , 10= 2 & 12 =3.
For the V series one will use 5 - 7 .
Basic RHS & DL types one will used settings 00 - 3 dependant on the magnet pole count.
Typically a basic 5 pole count = 00, 8 =1 , 10= 2 & 12 =3.
For the V series one will use 5 - 7 .
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With you guys seeming knowledgable about hubs and discs could you answer me this . My neighbour wants me to fabricate a bracket to receive his front wheel hub having demounted it from its 26” wheel. His idea is to have the hub drive his trike rear axle and in turn its 26” wheel using an axle adapter and two mounting rings used to mount a disc on a hub. One will be on the axle receiving a 24 tooth sprocket and the other to mount an identically where the brake disc would be mounted.
My question is would the six bolts designed to receive the disc be up to driving a sprocket. I assume it would be as it only a 250w 36v motor and the disc must handle a fair load when chucking the front brake on with aggression.
i don’t want to waste time fabricating a mounting only for the motor casing to get ripped out on the 1st go.
My question is would the six bolts designed to receive the disc be up to driving a sprocket. I assume it would be as it only a 250w 36v motor and the disc must handle a fair load when chucking the front brake on with aggression.
i don’t want to waste time fabricating a mounting only for the motor casing to get ripped out on the 1st go.
Yes. I've done that, and I know of professional trike makers that do it. It gives you a chance to adjust the gearing of the motor to suit your needs. Mine was a single gear, but if you use a rear motor, and design a 135mm bracket with a derailleur hanger, you can use the gears for normal pedal speed and the gears from the bracket to the axle as your overall ratio.
Mine had a freewheel on the motor, which you don't need if you have a freewheel on the axle.
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I made them myself from 1” steel conduit bent to shape using a pipe bender and welded at the bottom where I fitted a couple of 75mm castors.
they sit at the same width as the rear wheels and 2” above ground level.
I have to plan routes in case they ground out at places such as uneven ground.
I formed them after tipping it going round a corner too fast and another time riding across an incline at the entrance to a drive of which there are many on cycle paths.
i find roads are more even so use them more, hence the indicators so I can keep both hands on the handle bars when turning.
So far I’ve found traffic quite considerate and patient given my speed and width.
The only problem we have is finding a uk supplier for a 15mm adaptor for the rear axle to fit the sprocket to.
Seems you have to get them from the US at a cost of around £60 with shipping and 21 days delivery.
Doesn't it already have a sprocket on it? You don't need an extra one, the motor goes between the crank and the axle. Another way of doing it is to fit a jack-shaft between the crank and the axle, and drive it with a chain from the motor. Also, there's the Cyclone motor that drives the chain directly anywhere between the crank and the axle.
Hello . It's been a while since I was in here. I wanted to ask if any of you went has far as to set the spoke tension of the original kt 26" wheel? My wheel was making a knocking sound while riding over a section of the wheel. A spoke needs replacing to be fair. Anyhow I bought a tension gauge for £6 and measured my spokes. One or two where 20 most were 25 and some 30. So I've set them all to 25 because it was the middle ground. I can't measure the spoke thickness because I don't have an caliper. So I just wanted to share some photos and see if anyone has already set theirs? Thank you.
Attachments
Oh don't worry about the placement of the gauge on photo one. I know it needs to be away from the other spoke. Just wanted a quick pic.
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