Yosepower hub kits.

I ordered a Yosepower CST hub kit form Elifeshop on ebay and it arrived on 22nd Dec, 6 days after placing the order. Warehouse location in Germany and total cost £184.

 

In the box:

The CST hub came laced in a 700c rim though there are 3 or 4 rim sizes to choose from, rim is silver and black with silver hub. Spokes silver and 13G, the rim is tightly laced with no loose spokes and all giving a nice ping when plucked.

Other kit components;

KT lcd3 with Yose Y01 decaling P & C parameters menu's as per usual, comes with 575mm extender cable.

 

Controller is KT 15a max with 50v caps so not for use at 13s/48v though 12s should be ok if you keep cell voltage under 41.5v, controller is quite small at 53mm x 84mm x 31mm.

 

PAS sensor is the KTV12L so ideally for sq taper on the non drive side. If the plastic splines were removed it has a 24mm dia so it possibly could be fitted to work on octalink /hollowtech type crank sets if they are long enough.

 

Cable set is 4-1 easy fit with Julet connectors, battery lead is the moulded 2 pin /2 part connector with bullet tails on the battery side. Hub motor cable/connector is long and easily reaches the saddle post.

 

A pair of E brake levers for wired brakes.

 

Triangle controller bag with logo 220mm L x 180mm D and 18mm bottom ringed cable entry.

 

A few tools come with the kit;

Crank puller.

Cassette/freewheel tool.

Chain whip.

Allen key set.

Also a couple of gimmicky led spoke lights.

 

Hub axle is 10 x 12mm and fits straight in replacing any Q or Bafang motor or any other with the same axle, width is std 135mm. I elected to remove my Q128C on my Boardman and the Yose fitted straight in with no gear adjustment needed, I didn't use the supplied KT kit as I already have a dual voltage controller wired up with lcd3 etc.

 

On Boxing day I rode out for a 65 miles down to Brighton/Shoreham and home and in operation the Yose appears to have good power and doesn't feel far off the Q128c , though in theory should be less as one is 350w and the other 500w and seems as quiet in operation.

At 36v 32km/h Yose CST is a about 1 - 1.5mph faster then the Q under my steam ( I topped out at 22.5 mph on the flat ), Yose is quoted as 270/280 rpm on ebay page so not to dissimilar to the Q which is believed to be 260rpm rather then the 201 stated on BMSB as it easily exceeds 15mph @36v,

The Yose max watts I saw in PAS 5 was 705 with my 20a controller, hub is 350w rated with a sticker that fell off !!!! There is a 350 engraving and serial no on the screw on side plate but this is obscured by the cassette

Power wise I saw watts approx. as;

PAS1 85w.

PAS2 155w.

PAS3 270w.

PAS4 360w.

PAS5 705w.

 

Next ride out I plan to try 12s lipo or 13s lion to see how nicely it runs, generally though I don't see a lot of issues and should give the Q128c a good run for it's money. Comparatively the Yose works out cheaper then a Q128c kit as there are no shipping or import fees involved.

Edited December 27, 20178 yr by Nealh

Forgot to mention having fitted the wheel I had no need to dish the wheel as it sat bang in the middle of the stays.

At the same current and voltage, the Q128C won't have any advantage. It's advantage is that it's rated at 500w, so you can run it at 20A and 48v, which will give it a considerable power advantage.

 

It's possible that the Yose one is as good, but we'll only know that if you run it at the higher power for some time to see whether the gears are as strong and whether it can handle the electrical power without over-heating or suffering efficiency loss.

hi nealh can you post a link to cst kit/shop is this 250w and what battery connections are fitted?

 

can only find a yosepower 350w wheel kit with a google search

 

thank you

All rear kits are 350w front are 250w.

Battery end connection is a standard pair of bullets.

Both stores sell much the same kit

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/ysbattery2012/

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/elifeshop2012/

 

The two are much the same, proprietor's have same surname and same city district.

At the same current and voltage, the Q128C won't have any advantage. It's advantage is that it's rated at 500w, so you can run it at 20A and 48v, which will give it a considerable power advantage.

 

It's possible that the Yose one is as good, but we'll only know that if you run it at the higher power for some time to see whether the gears are as strong and whether it can handle the electrical power without over-heating or suffering efficiency loss.

 

Yep, only time will tell.

thanks for the links nealh

I see the 350w rear moter is 35nm max controller 15amp and 36volt and 5 levels of pas, and i believe mechanical disk compatable.

 

what i have no idea of is how a 350w compares to 250w moter if controller is 15a as you and d8veh have tried lots more bikes /kits than myself

Disc brake compatible, cable or hydraulic. With the KT you can dispense with brake cut out if you are not using a throttle but as I found, if a throttle fault develops you do need cut outs.

The 350w is 35nm not bad for a smallish hub and guys on German forum say they have no issue with 10% inclines, 250w is a little less at 30nm. The 350w in theory will handle more watts though for this you will want 17 -20a controller or try a shunt mod with a bit of solder. At 15a you will see 540w max in PAS 5 with 20a I saw 705w, the jump in power from 3 - 5 and even 4 - 5 in PAS was very noticeable.

I haven't used the supplied 15a KT kit as I'm using my previously installed 20a set up, I'm eventually going to run on 13s/48v.

 

The throttle comes set as 6km/h but in the P4 setting just change 0 to 1 for full throttle.

Edited December 28, 20178 yr by Nealh

I haven't used the supplied 15a KT kit as I'm using my previously installed 20a set up, I'm eventually going to run on 13s/48v.

 

The throttle comes set as 6km/h but in the P4 setting just change 0 to 1 for full throttle.

 

Which 20A controller are you using that is 48v capable?

Which 20A controller are you using that is 48v capable?

 

KT 36/48 dual voltage model available from PSWPower or Aliexpress, available as 15,17 or 20a.

KT 36/48 dual voltage model available from PSWPower or Aliexpress, available as 15,17 or 20a.

Thanks for that Nealh, thinking it through I am considering this as a conversion for my wife’s bike, so the extra speed for a 48v set-up would not be welcome!

 

Having the confidence of knowing that you received a well built wheel is very valuable.

Thanks for that Nealh, thinking it through I am considering this as a conversion for my wife’s bike, so the extra speed for a 48v set-up would not be welcome!

 

Having the confidence of knowing that you received a well built wheel is very valuable.

 

Although at 48v there is the advantage of greater speed this can be kept in check by setting it from the lcd or disconnecting the speed connection wire if fitted, the other advantage is increase in torque which is handy for hilly terrain.

It does look a good option. The nearest I found was below at £190, but it states not suitable for hydraulic brake. I have hydraulic disc, but can't find an option for that..

 

36V350W E-bike Electric bicycle Hub Motor Conversion kit Rear wheel 28"（700c）

For hydraulic operation you have to dismantle the brake fitting and glue the sensor/magnet to your brake lever in a way to actuate it.

Or for a £1 or so get a reed switch and wire it up and a magnet to sense opening and closing.

 

You only need them if fitting the throttle in case of a malfunction.

For hydraulic operation you have to dismantle the brake fitting and glue the sensor/magnet to your brake lever in a way to actuate it.

Or for a £1 or so get a reed switch and wire it up and a magnet to sense opening and closing.

 

You only need them if fitting the throttle in case of a malfunction.

 

Is there a facility on the rear wheel to attach the brake disk?

I wouldn’t use a throttle anyway, just want it for pedal assist.

Pity they don’t do the rear wheel kit in black, to match the rest of my bike, hence why the BMS one ‘looks’ good.

Edited December 30, 20178 yr by Neil5403

I exchanged a few eBay messages with ysbattery2012 before Christmas as I was enquiringly about a 700C front wheel. They responded very quickly and did say they were expecting more stock in the New Year, so it may be worth asking about a disc brake wheel.

 

Reading the listing again, as nealh says the wheel does accept disc brakes.

Edited December 31, 20178 yr by malkie0831

Is there a facility on the rear wheel to attach the brake disk?

I wouldn’t use a throttle anyway, just want it for pedal assist.

Pity they don’t do the rear wheel kit in black, to match the rest of my bike, hence why the BMS one ‘looks’ good.

 

AFAICT all are disc compatible and for black hub wave your spray can over it for a few passes. Just look at the pics on the slide bar, pics show both sides of hub so you can confirm brake suitability and gear cluster to use. All the ones I have looked at have the 6 screws in place even the front ones as well, it makes little sense nowadays not to have the fixings. The holes aren't blind so you may want to seal the screws in to prevent water tracking in if used as an all weather bike esp commuting or leaving out in the rain.

Edited December 31, 20178 yr by Nealh

The reason they say not compatible with hydraulic disc is because they supply cable brake levers in the kit. If you want switches for your hydraulic brakes, you have to make or get them from somewhere else.

 

The same as they say not compatible with Hollowtech cranks. They are compatible, but you have to modify or get an alternative PAS.

Don't forget Elifeshop on ebay offer the exact same kits as YSB. The two sellers are from the same district and are probably related looking at the addresses and seller surname.

If not in the mood to make your own brake cut off, kits from here.

As far as kits go its about the best one I have seen with attachment brackets supplied.

http://www.pswpower.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2016-47-02U8.3C7VP

 

Only one kit is needed as you can use one kit for two bikes as you only need one brake set up to actuate quite often the rear.

@36v, The Yose max watts I saw in PAS 5 was 705 with my 20a controller

 

Yesterday was the first day I could try my YosePower kit, the 26" rear hub variant in all black - 350 Watt nominal power, disc brake compatible (but not compatible with hydraulics and Hollowtech cranksets)

 

In addition to all that has been said, and which I can confirm, the controller supplied with the kit seems to deliver a maximum of 475 Watt to the motor - at least that's the largest number I caught on the display. That would translate to roughly 13A; my 10S3P battery pack (of LG MJ1 cells) should be able to deliver significantly more, at least in peak.

 

I was surprised to note that the highest speed indicated on the flats was 36 km/h (full throttle, thumb throttle), with wheel size configured to 26" to match the 26" wheel. It's comforting to see this matching the 22.5 mph documented above. I have yet to make a confirmed measurement of that speed (GPS, calibrated speedometer).

 

For me, the package was about 2 mm too wide to perfectly fit into my full suspension rear end, so I had to pull apart by hand the frame a tad. I decided to go with a 160 mm disc to make use of the existing Shimano XT mount configuration. There is about 2 mm of clearance from the break caliper body to the motor case - so this _just_ fits. (Moving to a 180 mm disc would offer ample clearance.)

 

I am rather positively surprised about climbing performance. The motor accepted all challenges willingly and only in the most challenging cases required (any) pedaling to make progress. I have no hard data for this (yet), sorry.

 

So, based on first impressions, and this being the first ever electrically assisted bike I have ever ridden: This seems to be quite a nice package.

I elected to remove my Q128C on my Boardman and the Yose fitted straight in with no gear adjustment needed, I didn't use the supplied KT kit as I already have a dual voltage controller wired up with lcd3 etc.

 

[mention=9614]Nealh[/mention] - may I ask how you managed to sort out all these Julet connectors?

 

I would like to replace the kit controller (Julet) with a pswpower-sourced dual 36V/48V 17A controller - but that one comes with different connectors for PAS, throttle, display, and motor (power, hall sensors).

[mention=9614]Nealh[/mention] - may I ask how you managed to sort out all these Julet connectors?

 

I would like to replace the kit controller (Julet) with a pswpower-sourced dual 36V/48V 17A controller - but that one comes with different connectors for PAS, throttle, display, and motor (power, hall sensors).

 

I had no need to do anything as I already was using a pwsp 20a controller with matching components with sm3 connectors with the Q128c, all I had to do was swap out the hub.

A simple mod you can try is to add solder to your controller shunt, this adjusts the resistance value and increase the amps. Add solder between 10 & 30% of the shunts total length, with the lcd3 you could roughly calculate the increase in amps by seeing how many watts appear on the screen.

Yesterday was the first day I could try my YosePower kit, the 26" rear hub variant in all black - 350 Watt nominal power, disc brake compatible (but not compatible with hydraulics and Hollowtech cranksets)

 

In addition to all that has been said, and which I can confirm, the controller supplied with the kit seems to deliver a maximum of 475 Watt to the motor - at least that's the largest number I caught on the display. That would translate to roughly 13A; my 10S3P battery pack (of LG MJ1 cells) should be able to deliver significantly more, at least in peak.

 

You can use a normal pas sensor and disc for hollowtech /gxp type BB's, just a case of drilling the center out nicely to fit over bearing housing. A single brake cut out might be prudent if you are using a throttle in case of throttle malfunction, brake cu tout just needs a bit of thinking thru to for fitting of a sensor and magnet.

 

Although your battery is able to deliver more amps it is held back by the 14/15a max controller rating so about 510- 540w is the max you can expect to see. Even with MJ1's I would be a little wary in drawing to much more out of them in a 3P (30a) configuration, the 10a peak rating for them isn't continuous but for a 5-10s burst.

You can sometimes increase the current in the LCD settings. If you do it by soldering the shunt, don't forget that the LCD will show the current lower than it actually is. Basically, it won't show any change.