Don't see any point in doing that if you are now happy with the battery. If you have opened the case and broken the warranty seal, they are unlikely to accept the battery being returned anyway.
Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
This yose battery was very cheap compared with other cell types and similar specs, this is why I am very careful in my research into batteries, the first kit I got cost me £600 just because I wanted the samsung cells and they have held up well over the years. For range, I tell ppl 36v 13-14ah with fair quality BRANDED cells will get you 25-30 miles depending on how much wind, hills and effort you put in, if you can pedal and remain in a low PAS then you could get a few more miles... This is the main reason I want to go 48v for the same AH you get more range not to mention that I could dial back on the power using the settings on the LCD and get even more range if needed, well thats the plan anyway
I wouldn't mind 1000w for short bursts when needed. This was also one of the reasons I went with the cheap battery so it wouldn't take forever until I could upgrade to 48v 
Hopefully there's a good alternative controller by then that doesn't require a lot of soldering to get all the connectors right.
For those who read my earlier posts about my crank arm: I bit the bullet and ordered the PAS sensor from topbikekit. I tried everything with my crank arm, even a big bearing puller but nothing helped. Sawing it to pieces would just give me other problems since I tend to break things
Hopefully there's a good alternative controller by then that doesn't require a lot of soldering to get all the connectors right.For those who read my earlier posts about my crank arm: I bit the bullet and ordered the PAS sensor from topbikekit. I tried everything with my crank arm, even a big bearing puller but nothing helped. Sawing it to pieces would just give me other problems since I tend to break things
Hi Olleman,
My Yose hailong 13ah battery, the same type as yours, will drop to as low as 29v before being completed depleted, so at 36v you've got about 50% left. I can manage approx 28 miles on a full charge, that's using it on full level 5 assist with some big hills, so I estimate its good for 45 to 50 miles on a lower assist mode and flattish roads. I'm looking to do some longer rides soon, will let you know how it goes, but I don't think you need to worry. Just go out on a full charge and ride it until it turns off to see the true range
My Yose hailong 13ah battery, the same type as yours, will drop to as low as 29v before being completed depleted, so at 36v you've got about 50% left. I can manage approx 28 miles on a full charge, that's using it on full level 5 assist with some big hills, so I estimate its good for 45 to 50 miles on a lower assist mode and flattish roads. I'm looking to do some longer rides soon, will let you know how it goes, but I don't think you need to worry. Just go out on a full charge and ride it until it turns off to see the true range
I had four li- po graphenes which were being under used so I soldered them in to 10s pairs with a bms, with all the required wire mods then added a switched bms, I now treated them more like my li-on's with less faff charging/discharging.
Today I paralleled them and a 14.5ah li-on together and after my ride today they behaved all the same and all finished at 37.5v
Today I paralleled them and a 14.5ah li-on together and after my ride today they behaved all the same and all finished at 37.5v
Started from work at 40.5v yesterday, got home with 38,5v reached work today with 36,4v so quite linear in that span. Let's see if I'm getting home from 36,4v without depleeting my battery. I'm going to run it until flat, otherwise I'm always going to wonder where the "real" 20% capacity is at.
How are you all riding your bikes? on my 12-13 km commute I'm averageing 26-27 km/h and aim for ~30 km/h on all straight roads. I'm all sweaty when I reach work I'm assuming this style isn't the most battery friendly but it means that I'm only loosing 5-10 minutes compared to the car.
How are you all riding your bikes? on my 12-13 km commute I'm averageing 26-27 km/h and aim for ~30 km/h on all straight roads. I'm all sweaty when I reach work
I'm assuming this style isn't the most battery friendly but it means that I'm only loosing 5-10 minutes compared to the car.
From your battery useage, you will get home fine on 36.4v , might even get you to work again before a charge. Most commuters like their ebike so they don't arrive at work all sweaty, but if you enjoy the workout, that's your choice don't worry about your battery, regular use is the best way to keep it healthy.
don't worry about your battery, regular use is the best way to keep it healthy.
What is a "straight road"?Started from work at 40.5v yesterday, got home with 38,5v reached work today with 36,4v so quite linear in that span. Let's see if I'm getting home from 36,4v without depleeting my battery. I'm going to run it until flat, otherwise I'm always going to wonder where the "real" 20% capacity is at.
How are you all riding your bikes? on my 12-13 km commute I'm averageing 26-27 km/h and aim for ~30 km/h on all straight roads. I'm all sweaty when I reach work
When you get home I would recharge before setting off to work again, battery & bike performance will always be better the higher the voltage can be maintained.
Problem if you set off at 34v or just above is you will start running into lvc issues and battery sag. Save the testing of capacity for day off riding when it won't matter, better then turning up late for work or for a shift.
[QUOTE="Olleman, post: 485716, member: 24777"
How are you all riding your bikes? on my 12-13 km commute I'm averageing 26-27 km/h and aim for ~30 km/h on all straight roads. I'm all sweaty when I reach work I'm assuming this style isn't the most battery friendly but it means that I'm only loosing 5-10 minutes compared to the car.[/QUOTE]
My commute isn't far and I can easily ride 18-22mph.
Generally I ride for leisure and local errands though do like use the ride for a bit of a work out, so I try and spin as fast as I can for a bit of speed and use pas 1 or 2 only saving the higher pas 3-5 for inclines/hills.
How are you all riding your bikes? on my 12-13 km commute I'm averageing 26-27 km/h and aim for ~30 km/h on all straight roads. I'm all sweaty when I reach work
I'm assuming this style isn't the most battery friendly but it means that I'm only loosing 5-10 minutes compared to the car.[/QUOTE]My commute isn't far and I can easily ride 18-22mph.
Generally I ride for leisure and local errands though do like use the ride for a bit of a work out, so I try and spin as fast as I can for a bit of speed and use pas 1 or 2 only saving the higher pas 3-5 for inclines/hills.
hahaWhat is a "straight road"?
That would be a "flat road"I got home just fine as you said. When I got home I had 35.2V left so the battery seems quite resilliant around 35V-37V. I did an extra 10km on mostly throttle at this point but after that I gave up and then was at 34.2V and voltage dropped to ~31V at full throttle. Battery bars on the LCD3 at this point showed zero bars. (P value 12)
@egroover: If you have any input on how the battery performs from 34.2V down to 29V I'd really like to know but for now I'll considder ~35.0V to be "20% battery left".
For those who buys the kit with the Yose 13Ah battery perhaps these numbers could be of some interest if you want to get to know your battery.
Method: Charged for one hour, took out the charger and waited 3-5 minutes and meassured voltage with a multimeter. Then repeat.
The watt reading is from the wall, I would assume that ~90% of this goes into the battery. Ah is not 100% correct but gives an indication.
Battery charger set to 40.8V and is the basic sans 2A charger.
Hour Voltage DeltaV Watts ~Ah
0 34.2 0 79 0
1 35.7 1.5 79 2
2 36.3 0.6 81 4
3 37.1 0.8 82 6
4 38.4 1.3 85 8
5 39.9 1.5 88 10
6 40.5 0.6 90-30 ~11 (Watts lowered when it got near the chargers 40.8V)
I would estimate from earlier meassurements that there's about 1.5-2Ah left to squeeze into the battery which would mean that 40.0V seems like a good number for 80% capacity when the battery is new.
All in all there doesn't seem to be any capacity problem whatsoever with my Yose 13Ah battery.
Attachments
Time will tell you may need to fully charge every now and then (1 in 10 ?) to balance the cell groups. Eventually one group may become out of balance, you will know this if you see a drop in your 40.5v top charge or time to charge as charging will cease if one cell group reach's 40.5v first.
The bms will/should deal with discharge and lvc so should keep the low end voltage in check but not with top balance at only 40.5v., if one cell group charges quicker then an other then balance may be an issue.
Changing the bms to smart bms would allow any balance voltage you wish to set along with min/max charge & discharging.
The bms will/should deal with discharge and lvc so should keep the low end voltage in check but not with top balance at only 40.5v., if one cell group charges quicker then an other then balance may be an issue.
Changing the bms to smart bms would allow any balance voltage you wish to set along with min/max charge & discharging.
What we need is the electronics producers to produce basic bms with a lower balance function of about 41v - 41.5v to help extend battery life when it comes to dumb charging. Also it would be good if supplied chargers had a two setting switch one for a full charge and one for a storage charge of 38.5v.
My regular use batteries I don't bother with storage charge they are left sitting at the end charge if above 37v for very short term prior to full charging.
Other batteries that might not get used as often I generally leave at 38 - 38.5v.
My regular use batteries I don't bother with storage charge they are left sitting at the end charge if above 37v for very short term prior to full charging.
Other batteries that might not get used as often I generally leave at 38 - 38.5v.
Totally off current topic - I was thinking - when it was mentioned that motors aren't voltage specific, could I run a "48v" motor off a 36v contoller and battery... My derailleur needs replacing soon but I want to wait till I got the rear 48v 350w before I did any work, I can afford the kit but not the battery as of yet.
Yes should work but don't forget the winding speed/rpm will be slower
so the Yose 280/300 rpm will spin at 210/220 rpm.
Yer I would expect it to be lower RPM, would this lower rpm be about the same speed as I am at now 15-17mph??
I have a feeling the cash I have saved up might need to be spent on a new kit very soon before it gets spent on something else, by someone else and on something I don't necessarily need or require, if you know what I mean
I emailed YOSE regarding RPM for the 26"
EBK-36250F-26B: RPM 210-230 [My 250w front]
EBK-48350R-26B: RPM 400-420 [350w 48V rear]
EBK-36250F-26B: RPM 210-230 [My 250w front]
EBK-48350R-26B: RPM 400-420 [350w 48V rear]
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