Yosepower hub kits.

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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The 36v cst are 270-290 rpm listed on Elifeshop and would think the 48v would be no different, though they do give differing rpm windings.
700c cst 270-290.
26"cst 300 -320.
Front kits are listed as 210 - 230rpm.

The 400rpm model you mentioned is for the D/D hub.


Ebay/ Yose kits via Elifeshop coming from Poland.
Ebay/ Yose kits via YSBattery coming from Austria.
 
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PC2017

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Sep 19, 2017
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Update on the 36v350w yose rear RPM

Is as you said nealh - 26" 36V 350w' RPM is 300-320.

This is the model I want 48v rear - How do we know if its D/D or geared I can't see any mention of it on the site... I never looked into the difference between DD and geared and if any what difference would this make to my setup if I wanted to run it temporarily on a 36v controller and battery???

https://www.yosepower.com/en/product/Hub-Motor-48V350W-26"-Rear-Motor-Bicycle-E-Bike-Hub-Conversion-Kit-Black-DIY-E-bike-LCD-Display-143.html

The 1000w 48v is listed as D/D
 

wheeliepete

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Feb 28, 2016
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As Neal has said, the 400 rpm is the speed of the big 1000w DD motor. They spin faster cos they have no reduction gears. Roughly speaking, most small hub motors are geared, the large ones are DD. DD motors are more suited to high power setups. The motor in your link is geared, don't worry,o_Oit will run fine at 36v, just slower.
 

PC2017

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the 400 rpm is the speed of the big 1000w DD motor
Strange - the email from yose listed the model number for the linked kit

Quote from yose service email : EBK-48350R-26B: RPM 400-420

They must have got it wrong at their end... that's a shame as loosing 25% of the 400 RPM would of been fare until I got the 48v battery!
 

PC2017

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restamped 36v motor with a 48v controller,
Yer could be, then buying that kit, running it on 36v with my existing controller and battery until as such time I save up for the 48v battery would be a better idea than buying the 48v battery first along with buying a 48v controller and overvolting the 250w front hub, cheaper too.

I was looking at batteries again today :( quality cells=mucho deniro
even the LG cells from pswpower are near the £300 mark for 13AH, unless I go lower AH then around £250, but now I am thinking range not just speed....
 

PC2017

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Any body think that the EU will change the TAX/CUSTOMS frame work on goods from the EU straight after March [I personally highly doubt it] with regards to YOSE shipping from a German warehouse? Thinking I might get the motor soon just in case + there's only 1 left in stock!
 

Olleman

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Jan 7, 2019
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After 200km I have noticed that my back wheel (700c/350w) isn't spinning 100% freely. There's some small resistence when lifting the wheel in the air and just letting in spin. There's also a very faint "scratching sound" coming from the hub. I'm not noticing this while riding and I'm not sure if it's always been this way. The front wheel without any motor hub does spin more freely. Is it perhaps normal that there's some minimal resistence in motor hubs?

I have really taken care of this thing. Have ridden in the rain a time or two but the bike is always stored inside both at work and at home.
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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Remove the brake caliper then see how free it is. Also check carefully that the tyre isn't rubbing. Check that the disc isn't rubbing on the chainstay or the caliper adapter. After that, look at hw you installed the washers to make sure that they aren't touching anything they shouldn't.
 

PC2017

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lyme

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Jun 20, 2018
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I would spin it by hand first and if it is not spinning freely I would remove the brake caliper to see if it made any difference. Normally if the brakes are binding you can hear them.
 

Olleman

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Jan 7, 2019
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I don't have disc brakes on the back wheel and the brakes have good clearance to the rim. Everything Seems to be in place but I'll loosen the wheel later and feel the axle while spinning the wheel.

I'm just turning the wheel by hand and it comes to a stop faster than the forward wheel
 

Olleman

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Jan 7, 2019
126
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Took the wheel of and there's some resistance when spinning it freely. I had to take a firm grip with my fingers of the axle or else it would "twist out of my fingers". My 15 year old back wheel from before spins forever in comparison and with almost no resistance when I hold it between my fingers.

There's a constant resistance in the wheel and not "on and off", this becomes very apparent when holding the axle in my fingers and spinning.

Also removed the cassette but everything "looks" good.


This is how the wheel spins, tried to pick up the sound I noticed but it's to faint.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vqh7s3umgo5p9lu/20190223_111324 (1).mp4?dl=0
 

PC2017

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there's some resistance when spinning it freely
I only have front hub experience in this matter, but my does spin a bit smoother unless I spin it backwards then there's a lot of resistance...

I couldn't hear the sound very well, try another video a bit longer perhaps, with power on and off this time and see what others have to say.
 

PC2017

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I decided (or pussied out) and went for the Silver 36v350w mainly for cost savings and a spare 36V controller + if I do want to overvolt it should be fairly easy...48V best part of £200 36v £177 (both prices include discounts /P&P) so shaved a few quid off to get a new freewheel!
 

PC2017

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Olleman

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Jan 7, 2019
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I emailed Yosepower about this and they say that it's perfectly normal. Would be interesting to hear from anyone else with the rear wheel 350w version.
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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My one in # 1 is happily working, it has no resistance and freely spins in the dropouts with tyre on with a slight ticking as you here the freehub pawls. About 1700miles on the hub now, I haven't had the need or urge to open mine as it is so quiet still. At the mo I probably won't be doing so.
 
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