Yosepower hub kits.

[PC2017]

be interesting to hear from anyone

I'l will let you know how my spins when it get here and I have installed it, If I get chance i'l do a vid and pop it up to youtube.

 

[vfr400]

Some cassette motors have a nut on the axle inside the freehub - sort of half in and half out. If it's over-tightened, it can over-load the bearing and make the wheel stiff. They're a nuisance because they self tighten when you tightenthe outer axle nut.

 

[Olleman]

Yes, that's what I have. I'll take a look at it, thanks!

 

[Hightechpete]

I'm currently using an LCD3 display on my roadbike which is fitted with a Yosepower rear wheel kit, but I don't like the way it clutters up the handlebars. I'm thinking of extending the cables and hiding the display in the seat pack alongside the controller, so that I'll only have the button on the bars, and a very thin cable running along the crossbar.
Am I likely to encounter any problems if I do this?
Alternatively, does anyone know of a simple, unobtrusive display panel that might work?.

 

[Nealh]

For my Lcd's I make an aluminium bracket up so as to move it off the handle bars and it now sits on top of the steerer's stem, the top bolt and cap hold the bracket in place, the hole drilled out with an appropriate size hole drill.

 

[Hightechpete]

Sounds like a good idea, also prevents any damage to the display when repairing a puncture.

 

[Nealh]

The other option is a top tube trinkets bag as in my pic and pop it in there, then just a case of the display button pad wire length to sort out. Moving it to the top of the steerer tube makes it no less prone to damage imv, if you up end the bike.

 

[Hightechpete]

Thanks Neal, I just found a little bag that once held a Gerber type multi-tool that I can strap to the steering stem, that'll do for now. I also wanted to get rid of the jumble of cables around the steering stem (yes I know I'm a fusspot), so I will pursue moving the display to the seat pack.
Do you happen to know how many cores there are in the cable that goes to the 'power on' button?
Scratch that, found this in another post - 'green and yellow wires which are the up and down levels leaving the black and red to the power on button'. Finding a source for the correct cable shouldn't be too difficult.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Thanks Neal, I just found a little bag that once held a Gerber type multi-tool that I can strap to the steering stem, that'll do for now. I also wanted to get rid of the jumble of cables around the steering stem (yes I know I'm a fusspot), so I will pursue moving the display to the seat pack.
Do you happen to know how many cores there are in the cable that goes to the 'power on' button?
Scratch that, found this in another post - 'green and yellow wires which are the up and down levels leaving the black and red to the power on button'. Finding a source for the correct cable shouldn't be too difficult.

I opened and counted, it is in one of my threads I think. I did some tidying in my computer bits box and found some nice black cable that will do the trick. My buttons will be about 1.2 metres away from the LCD - I am going for one with cadence display if I stay with external PAS on the GSM. If I repair the internal PAS I'll have to add a cadence sensor.

The eggrider display and buttons are pretty discreet. For a price...

 

[PC2017]

I like my display location, however I am thinking about a fancier display... Any KT compatible recommendations?? Dam miss kitty's not normally one for pictures

 

[anotherkiwi]

I like my display location, however I am thinking about a fancier display... Any KT compatible recommendations??View attachment 29255 Dam miss kitty's not normally one for pictures

You have the LCD-8 which is "colour" and available in horizontal and vertical formats.

 

[PC2017]

You have the LCD-8

Yer just found that one, Does anyone know of any cheap(ish) ones with the julet connector?

EDIT found one £35-40 ish aliexpress

 

[PC2017]

Hey Olleman did that suggestion work for your kit??

And does your (or anyone with the 350w kit) LCD say YO1 on the front?

 

[Nealh]

The unused lcd3 I have has YS01 decal on it.

 

[Olleman]

Yes, mine too.

Are you referring to the axle nut suggestion? If so, haven't tried yet.

 

[PC2017]

unused lcd3

Ever used it??

the axle nut suggestion

Yep thats the one!

The reason I ask about the YO1 is because I fear that like the LCD YO1 that came with my 250w, it will be restricted to 15.4mph.... I will continue to use the Dill LCD3 that I know will perform well on a 350w motor, however it would be nice to have a spare that performs as well as the Dill.

I have also checked all the settings the only difference was C14 dill was on 2 yose(250w) on 3 which makes no difference to top speed

What top speed can you get out of your 350w Olleman without pedal power??

 

[Nealh]

Not used Y-01 lcd on a ride, no load speed on throttle the same as my original lcd3 when connected. All P & C settings/parameter functions/values are identical, the Y-01 won't be speed limited as you can change the speed for PAS and throttle to be different.

C14 is PAS strength signal 1 - 3/ weak - strong., so o bearing on speed limiting.

The 250w Yose front hub is a lower rpm winding so will be slower then the 350w rear. Also the 250w might be EN15194 compliant and most likely the controller could be speed limited.

 

[jaivioxford]

Thanks for sharing with us..

 

[PC2017]

Thanks for sharing with us..

Welcome

you can change the speed for PAS and throttle to be different.

What settings would do this??

most likely the controller could be speed limited.

This is why I am so perplexed - 250w motor on my Dill LCD3 17mph then tapers out, 250w on the YOSE LCD power cut off at 15.4mph it can not be the controller because I first had it running off the Dill controller now its running of the 250w YOSE controller and with the Dill LCD still 17mph all settings and max speed limiter ghosted a part from pre mentioned C14

 

[Nealh]

For PAS speed limit simply set the speed on the basic screen tabs where you can change wheel size & speed unit used (Imp or metric).
Setting speed limit you have to use km/h as that is the default unit used but you can select then to either record odo & speed read out as Imp or metric as the unit calculates the conversion.

For throttle you can set a specified speed limit as defined using parameter C4 Value 2, then press middle button again and the speed noted will flash adjust up or down. Once done press again to set speed, value 2 when set allows the throttle to be different to PAS if required to do so.

My max no load speed @36v is 24.9mph on the lcd, allowing for speed inaccuracy. Setting above 44km/h has no affect as the hubs terminal speed for said voltage has been reached. If you use 48v then terminal no load speed will be greater.
If you set speed below 44km/h you will see terminal speed reads less.