Yosepower hub kits.

[Nealh]

Even though I'm quite pleased with the power from the kit I'm going to want to try the solder mod. Any tips on how to proceed with this with the lowest risk of damaging the controller? I'm thinking of weighing the solder but perhaps that's overkill!?

Unscrew all rear screws (4x) & front top 2 only, gently pry off the top ( it will be tight ).
Shunt is the n shaped thick wire and is on the end at the back. Add solder to the rhs about 20/25% of total shunt length, use fine solder so you don't apply to much and it drips every where. If necessary protect all nearby components with tissue /kitchen towel.

 

[PC2017]

been on here?

I assume you mean the forum - it tells you in the drop down box if you click on my pic - Sept 17 i joined - why you ask??

 

[Nealh]

Sounds like the sawdust matter is a bit slow tonight .

 

[vfr400]

Is it still a hall sensor if not then what sensor would I did if I needed to replace it??

It's an SS41, cost about 20p. Available on EBay.. They don't break unless you do something stupid with the electrics.

 

[PC2017]

something stupid with the electrics

Good to know thanks

My dill 350 does not seem to have the same setup there is just the 3 hall sensors that I can see and they've failed twice now after 3500 miles I have just finished replacing them- I did see the 3 HS in the YOSE pic you can just make one out in the posted pic - I was looking for a PCB with the HS attached as they are in the Dill 350 - my bad

 

[PC2017]

On the YOSE controller now, only parts not YOSE PAS & Battery... I might have nicked someones idea on the controller storage, but hey it looks tidy, much better than the triangle bag I have a waterproof connector for the battery to controller left to install... Oh and the Topbikekit PAS works perfect!

 

[lyme]

Certainly looks much better with the controller in the seat pack and must do something with mine as I think the frame bag doesn't look right.

 

[PC2017]

frame bag doesn't look right

It does look much better this way for sure!

I took my bike out with the triangle bag and there was a few dodgy geezers looking at it locked up and I thought na don't like, lucky I had this one but I scrapped the bike with the seat attachment on it so it's held on with cable ties...

If you do try to replicate it, the bag I have was from aldi, cost £10 ish, just make sure it has a rubber bottom layer not cardboard, this one is rubber and I just sliced a couple of slits at the base and sealed round the edges with electrical tape, it seems to be holding well... I would say, see it and feel it before you buy one!

 

[Olleman]

Hi again!

Just made the soldering MOD. I measured current with an amp meter. Managed to get up to 16A without the mod. This meter is quite accurate so I don't think it's all a meassuring problem. After the MOD I'm getting about 18,5A. Does this sound about right? I have definetley not added more solder than 20-25% of the shunt.

Oh, and on a side note, I managed to fall yesterday Damn ice patches! When I did the MOD today I used the throttle to get up to full speed and then used the brake to get a high current reading. I'm noticing that the rear is quite wobbly (wheel freely spinning) and I can also see that the wheel isn't spinning 100% "straight" when comparing to the frame. I don't really notice this when biking. Should I just let this be or is this something I need to to something about?

,Olle

 

[wheeliepete]

The wheel may have suffered some damage in your fall. I would check for broken or loose spokes and make sure the wheel is sitting in the dropouts properly. Wobbly wheels only get more wobbly with use.

 

[Olleman]

No broken spokes but I'll check all of them if some might be loose. Thanks!

 

[Olleman]

hm...seems like I have a small "bubble" in the tyre at the same place as where the vent is (sorry, not sure it's the right word). I think I remember someone else in this thread had a similar problem. Are the rims special in this kit? Never had this problem with this tyre on my old rim.

I have "Dunlop" kind of vent if that has anything to do with it.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Valve is the word you are looking for.

 

[Olleman]

Valve is the word you are looking for.

Thanks, that's the one

 

[Olleman]

First 100km done with the kit and I think I'm seeing the drawbacks of the cheap battery...

Yesterday I went out for a 15km ride with 39.2V meassured with a good multimeter. Charged it for 1 hour and 5 minutes (charger used 85watts) and after a couple of hours rest I'm back at 39.2V. So for 15km of riding I used ~2,5Ah/36V which seems reasonable since I'm pedaling a lot myself.

Today I did my first commute to work, started at the 39.2V and after 12KM to work I'm down to 37.2V even after some rest for the battery. I pushed the bike and myself quite hard on this ride.

The lowest I've gone to is 36.5V and even at this level I could only charge for about 3-4 hours, indicating that the battery is only accepting 8-9Ah. (confirmed with the watt meter). I have tried leaving the charger on for several hours but it's only accepting like 1W and gives me a steady 41.9V reading at full which would indicate that the cells are balanced, right?

Is it possible that there are 4Ah left in the battery when it's down to 36.2V which in theory should correspond to ~10% left.

Would be very interesting to hear your experiences @egroover. Even though they are cheap cells I still expect to have 13Ah of battery otherwise I'm hoping yosepower will accept a return and let me pay the difference for the LG celled 16Ah battery instead...

 

[wheeliepete]

That doesn't seem too bad, at 36.2v you still have a good amount of power left before the 30/31v cutoff. No pack will ever give it's full stated capacity because it's based on manufacturers testing figures which usually take the cells down to 2.5v, below the LVC on our bikes.

 

[Olleman]

hm...I'm getting confused here

This chart has been posted here before which led me to believe that 36V is almost the same as a depleted battery. But it's not, then ?

 

[Nealh]

If you had 4ah remaining and it was 10% as you say your battery would have to have original capacity of 40ah so you math is out.
For real world usable li-on capacity use 3.2v - 4.2v as the fuel tank and very roughly use each 1v decrease as 10% capacity usage. Typically at your 36.2v you would have about 30 - 40% capacity available.

Li- on discharge is a bit different to li- polymer (li-po) as the chemistry is bit different.
Li-on is safer and has better stability then Li-po esp at lower voltage, so most li-on bms are set for 3.1 -3.3v lvc. Li-po at 3.6v is about as low as you want to go other wise the cell voltage collapses below this very quickly and can see greater imbalance.
Different chemistry different parameters esp on discharge.

 

[Nealh]

Charging too low can/will bring issues, though is up to you to manage and be happy with your process.
Under charging looses quite a bit of capacity/range also the pep/power generated esp under PAS use.
On my bikes I certainly notice the difference with power when voltage is decreasing acceleration is less sprightly .

 

[Olleman]

Ok, the bit about different chemistry explains it. And I'll disregard that graph and go by your suggestions about 1V per 10%.

I emailed Yosepower and they wanted to know thew voltage for full battery and also empty. Is it safe to let the battery run all the way to the cutoff or is that just unneccessary when everything points to no problem with my battery?