Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
Forgot about this post sorry - is there a battery inside the LCD3? and if so would removing that restore the original FD settings and wipe any third part programming?
Give it a go, it's deff. worth the experience. I havn't quite mastered the whole process yet, but I do the spoke calculation, lace up the wheel and give it to a wheel builder in LBS to do the truing for £15. I find this spoke calc. really useful as it explains each measurement. 2 cross pattern is good for hub motors.
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/spoke-calc.html?hub=cust_d123_s40_o-7_n36_l135_h3.2_p21.5&pair=false
Hi, I’m a newbie to Pedelecs and to ebikes in general, so excuse the stupid questions. I’m building an electric drift bike (picture attached) with my kids, just for fun. We’ve bought a 1000w 48v hub motor kit. It’s from DongDian ebike kits (via eBay), but I’m struggling to get it to work. The instructions are pretty poor. Any suggestions on how I progress? Or anyone have a wiring diagram? All help would be welcomed!!! Thanks in advanced!
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You should start a new thread about your 1kw D/D hub issues and not on this thread which is about a different type of hub motor/kit.
received my topbikekit 4t1 cable and PAS [kt-d12l] Julet. I assumed wrongly that buying 2 items would lower the cost of p&p if it did, it was not by much, well needs must. it arrived in good time about 1 week maybe a few days out either way, total cost £21.00 including p&p , cost to buy UK ruff estimate would be ebay (china) £20 [4t1 julet] (uk) £20+p&p - PAS [julet] £12 - £19 free p&p - aliexpress about the same.
All items work as expected, the 8 pin controller connector is very tight, I got it all the way in (lol) very hard to disconnect, I suppose for water proofing this would be a good seal, so I am happy with that. All julet LCD and throttle connectors are spot on, nice and snug, the RED brake ends are 2 pin so compatible with my dillenger brake sensors.
The PAS perfect aside from the cable length for my purpose, where the controller is close to the battery mount, but future proofed enough should i decide on relocating my controller, which will happen when i moved to 48v (very soon)
Oh and
A prosperous new year to you all - of course
All items work as expected, the 8 pin controller connector is very tight, I got it all the way in (lol) very hard to disconnect, I suppose for water proofing this would be a good seal, so I am happy with that. All julet LCD and throttle connectors are spot on, nice and snug, the RED brake ends are 2 pin so compatible with my dillenger brake sensors.
The PAS perfect aside from the cable length for my purpose, where the controller is close to the battery mount, but future proofed enough should i decide on relocating my controller, which will happen when i moved to 48v (very soon)
Oh and
A prosperous new year to you all - of course
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48v oh you naughty boy .Watch out as new forum doom and gloom merchants will likely tell you of crashing and burning and how you will not get any advantage in doing so, sadly it sounds like they have never actually tried yet and continue to read from their theory books.
Good to read this thread is still going strong. Just ordered a few days ago, when ebay had the 15% off voucher, a yosepower Hailong LG celled 10.4ah 36v battery at £141 delivered to go with my yosepower old school MTB 26" conversion (kit came with the yosepower 13ah battery). Ideal swap out to leave in the forest car park for extended fun, or to sling in the triangle frame bag for further afield.
My hub is still going fine and @48v. Although I have no worries about the hub taking 800w at times, I my tinker a bit more and thinking about introducing oil cooling with addition of 30- 40ml of ATF or 10ml Ferro.
Yep you wait I'll be the one that has my battery internal combust as my motor starts flaming from the sides when I reach 20mph going down hill!
You might have long wait or a flat Gopro
.Hubs can stand quite a bit of abuse before imploding , batteries are usually fine unless you abuse them physically.
An SWXH can take 40a @ 15s/ 54v nom with oil cooling , you will have little problem with a Yose.
Too true I have a USB charge cable from battery to the cam with a side hole in my case after some git cut me up, swore at me because it was my fault for just being a cyclist
and my cam ran flat 2 mins before it happened lolI think I am going to try the 48v battery and if and when TBK stock this new 48v julet controller (i haven't looked for it yet they said they'ed drop me an email when its on the site) on the yose 250w front and limit the amp draw via the LCD...
One question did spring to mind maybe a stupid one like always but here goes....
If the controller max amps is 30 amp but the BMS on the battery maxes out at 22 amps would that mean I am dividing 22 amps when looking at the C5 settings in the LCD or 30 amps?
Or does the BMS actually max out?
https://enerprof.de/shop/akkus/ebike-und-pedelec-akkus/enerpower-hailong-pro-rahmenakku-li-ion-48v-14ah-pedelec-ebike-ga-diy-umbausatz/?lang=de
Hi PC2017, No need to worry about BMS it is 30a max! with 30a fuse
BMS continuous discharge current is 22A, 10 min Discharge current at 25A and 5 seconds discharge current 30A. How ever I would change you're c5 parameter settings on you're lcd3, to below max to allow for the draw from you're go pro.
BMS continuous discharge current is 22A, 10 min Discharge current at 25A and 5 seconds discharge current 30A. How ever I would change you're c5 parameter settings on you're lcd3, to below max to allow for the draw from you're go pro.
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Hi Scott - yer I spotted that info after I had posted the question lol
Going to drop the amp draw to the lowest I can until I get the rear 48v kit from YOSE a bit later on in the year
Been out a few times over the break on my MTB yosepower 350w rear conversion, really great fun hitting the trails, surprisingly agile and pulls well in level 5 assist. These really are great value, especially if you can use an ebay discount code. Just waiting for the 2nd Yose battery to arrive for further afield trips. They have the 13ah back in stock on the Yose site or on their ebay store.
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