Yosepower hub kits.

[PC2017]

So wouldn't it be compatable?

Steady on there... lets have a good look at the ONE YOU linked, the 2nd picy states "1t5 9pin" this if for the HEAD LIGHT option this has the WRONG connector on it, this will NOT work HOWEVER

Zoom in on the pics if you can and compare the connectors to the ones on the YOSE controller you have, inspect them carefully.

The 3rd pic shows a different connector the same as the YOSE 4t1 cable and states "4t1 8 pin" option SINE WAVE NO LIGHT
this one with 4t1 8pin SHOULD allow you to use your Yose e-brakes

You would need the NO LIGHT version BUT you will have to read the details in that page yourself and be aware of the returns policy I can not say for sure this will work, but it looks like it would... HOW you select the NO LIGHT version I would assume you would have to email them and double check with them as well.

The topbike kit one I linked zoom in on the connectors and check them, once again you will have to be sure in your OWN decisions before you make any sort of purchase. On your head be it so to speak.

And like Nealh mentioned 22 amps is a lot of power 28mph IMO is too fast for a bike unless its down hill!

C5 in the LCD manual assuming you have the LCD3 is for lowering the amp draw I have not used this setting so if it will work or not is another question - read it carefully

If you get either one these and they don't work please don't blame ME

 

[quackstar84]

Steady on there... lets have a good look at the ONE YOU linked, the 2nd picy states "1t5 9pin" this if for the HEAD LIGHT option this has the WRONG connector on it, this will NOT work HOWEVER

Zoom in on the pics if you can and compare the connectors to the ones on the YOSE controller you have, inspect them carefully.

The 3rd pic shows a different connector the same as the YOSE 4t1 cable and states "4t1 8 pin" option SINE WAVE NO LIGHT
this one with 4t1 8pin SHOULD allow you to use your Yose e-brakes

You would need the NO LIGHT version BUT you will have to read the details in that page yourself and be aware of the returns policy I can not say for sure this will work, but it looks like it would... HOW you select the NO LIGHT version I would assume you would have to email them and double check with them as well.

The topbike kit one I linked zoom in on the connectors and check them, once again you will have to be sure in your OWN decisions before you make any sort of purchase. On your head be it so to speak.

And like Nealh mentioned 22 amps is a lot of power 28mph IMO is too fast for a bike unless its down hill!

C5 in the LCD manual assuming you have the LCD3 is for lowering the amp draw I have not used this setting so if it will work or not is another question - read it carefully

If you get either one these and they don't work please don't blame ME

Hey i haven't got a clue lol. You're talking alien to me =/ lol. I'll take a photo of the controller cable ends and show you... but it sounds like I need to also ask the sellers as well... or at lease find out what this cable ends are called.

So there's no 17 amps ones around...? I still haven't heard back from yose but it would be daft not to get an 36/48 now anyhow. I just don't want to damage my battery is all. Yes I have the LCD3

Thank you for your time again PC2017.

 

[PC2017]

i haven't got a clue

Lol I didn't have much of a clue when I started with my first kit in 2016 and some might say I still don't have a clue....

If you don't no much I will assume you are unaware of advanced level battery safety for this reason IMO 22 amp is not advised you may just kill your battery or worse the neighbours cat, read this thread fully and google/youtube electric bike school (USA) you should find lots to watch and read if you so wish to do so.

These connectors are "julet" waterproof moulded but this is not a well known name and some Chinese to English translators will not know the products and visa-verse, also if you deal with other companies they will not know about YOSE nor will they be bothered to research them so asking too many questions of a Chinese company can be troublesome most times they will assume you know what you are talking about and just agree with you even if you ask them a question....

The one on topbikekit should work but like said any problems don't blame me.... this one is 22 amp so be warned

The BEST bet is to wait for YOSE to get back to you, I notice they do sell a 36V controller on the site separate... They should be able to sell you a 48V version, it might be worth asking for 2 if you have the cash they will sting you for delivery but they will bend over backwards to help, well from my experience they did with me albeit I was a pain in the arse lol

 

[vfr400]

Hos battery should be OK with 22A. Most of those with LG cells are rated at 25A or more. Have a look at the original listing to confirm.

 

[Nealh]

It will boil down to the bms rating but even if it is only 20a continuous most will have a peak discharge rating to handle temporary higher loading for 10- 30sec's.

 

[PC2017]

battery should be OK with 22A

I wouldn't risk it! 17-18amp would be enough for me anyway

 

[vfr400]

I wouldn't risk it! 17-18amp would be enough for me anyway

It's not about risk. The specification will be written in the listing.

 

[quackstar84]

Lol I didn't have much of a clue when I started with my first kit in 2016 and some might say I still don't have a clue....

If you don't no much I will assume you are unaware of advanced level battery safety for this reason IMO 22 amp is not advised you may just kill your battery or worse the neighbours cat, read this thread fully and google/youtube electric bike school (USA) you should find lots to watch and read if you so wish to do so.

These connectors are "julet" waterproof moulded but this is not a well known name and some Chinese to English translators will not know the products and visa-verse, also if you deal with other companies they will not know about YOSE nor will they be bothered to research them so asking too many questions of a Chinese company can be troublesome most times they will assume you know what you are talking about and just agree with you even if you ask them a question....

The one on topbikekit should work but like said any problems don't blame me.... this one is 22 amp so be warned

The BEST bet is to wait for YOSE to get back to you, I notice they do sell a 36V controller on the site separate... They should be able to sell you a 48V version, it might be worth asking for 2 if you have the cash they will sting you for delivery but they will bend over backwards to help, well from my experience they did with me albeit I was a pain in the arse lol

For you for your time PC2017.

Yeah i'll go for an 17-18 and as you say I might as well go for the one yosepower sells so i've e-mailed them to see if I can buy two. They don't have any of the 36v version in stock. Hopefully they will be able to at lease order some in. It took a month to wait for the 48v kit 26" to come in stock. I wish I had known that bikes now a days are either 27.5 or 29 as I'm limited to which bike I can use. Oh well... live and learn... then learn again from the same mistakes *Sigh*. Last time was when a controller came with an black positive cable and an white negative... I mean... come on ='( lol.

If they can not get them back in stock i'll gamble with the 22 amp one or see about doing further research. If I know the types of cables they are called I can take time to look for them.

Thank you again Sir.

 

[quackstar84]

It's not about risk. The specification will be written in the listing.

I really have the worse of luck when it comes to ebikes lol... so I'll try and get another or two from yose. =)

 

[PC2017]

36v version

Hold on a min - what battery are you running 36v or 48V?? I was under the impression you had a 48v - If you do have a 48v battery a 36v controller is WILL NOT WORK you will need from YOSE a 48v controller some after market controllers can do 36V and 48V in one unit HOWEVER some times a chinese listing can say "36v/48v controller" then offer a drop down box to select which voltage you need.

 

[PC2017]

It's not about risk.

So theoretically speaking - What happens if you had a battery with cells capable of 25 amp continuous discharge with a 20amp BMS and a 22 amp controller then went 25 miles and climbed a really big hill using PAS 5 all the time and did this journey everyday for a year?? - And this question goes out to everyone so we can gauge a few possible different opinions.

 

[vfr400]

Hold on a min - what battery are you running 36v or 48V?? I was under the impression you had a 48v - If you do have a 48v battery a 36v controller is WILL NOT WORK you will need from YOSE a 48v controller some after market controllers can do 36V and 48V in one unit HOWEVER some times a chinese listing can say "36v/48v controller" then offer a drop down box to select which voltage you need.

Many KT controllers are dual voltage. They detect the voltage and set the apropriate parameters automatically

 

[vfr400]

So theoretically speaking - What happens if you had a battery with cells capable of 25 amp continuous discharge with a 20amp BMS and a 22 amp controller then went 25 miles and climbed a really big hill using PAS 5 all the time and did this journey everyday for a year?? - And this question goes out to everyone so we can gauge a few possible different opinions.

You look at your battery listing. If it says the battery can supply 25A or 40A, thats what the BMS will supply. No risk of cutting off with a 22A controller. If the listing says 20A, then a 22A controller probably wouldn't be suitable. He said his battery has LG cells, in which case it's not likely that they're matched with a 20A BMS.

 

[PC2017]

Many KT controllers are dual voltage

The YOSE 36v controller is not dual voltage though - I can't find the listing for the elifeshop-2012 Hailong 48v battery with the LG cells

 

[quackstar84]

Hold on a min - what battery are you running 36v or 48V?? I was under the impression you had a 48v - If you do have a 48v battery a 36v controller is WILL NOT WORK you will need from YOSE a 48v controller some after market controllers can do 36V and 48V in one unit HOWEVER some times a chinese listing can say "36v/48v controller" then offer a drop down box to select which voltage you need.

Beg your pardon. I reread what I wrote and it did come across like I was going to buy the 36v version. Yeah i'm going for the stock yose 48v controller if they have any. Thank you and again sorry... i'm a bit dizzy sometimes... hence why I should have just folked out for a pr-build ebike =/.

 

[quackstar84]

The YOSE 36v controller is not dual voltage though - I can't find the listing for the elifeshop-2012 Hailong 48v battery with the LG cells

I think it's the same as this one; http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2017-cb-jdwg

 

[quackstar84]

ebay knocked off a good amount of the price... £250 was a good price I though...

 

[PC2017]

pr-build ebike

We all have those dizzy days and where is the fun in a pre-built ebike, any how I am glad you have decided to play it safe and try YOSE for another controller, my next purchase is a suspension seatpost I am going for the Suntour NCX hard spring - Have a great bank hol monday!

 

[quackstar84]

Thank you PC2017. Hope your seatpost works out to be nice =)

 

[dav]

Could you suggest what do you think about following:

I have two 36V kits bought from yosepower. On one bike few days ago controller stopped working properly, at 5 and 4 pas level it shouts down after 1 second or after motor starts working, at 3rd pas level motor works but not as it should with glitches on display. I took controller from other bike (kits are same and bought at the same day) and bike was working ok for 24h, but then at one climb julet connector that connects battery with this new controller ''exploded'' and started burning. Battery is working properly, none wires other than julet burned