Yosepower hub kits.

quackstar84

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No good!!!
Although the listing says sinewave only Square wave is available.

Yose hubs are sensored so a sinewave controller is needed and run quieter then the noiser squaerwave.
Thank you. i didnt see that on my mobile. Youve told me about sinewave in the past :). ill see if and when they have any stock thank you.
 
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PC2017

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No good!!!
Although the listing says sinewave only Square wave is available.
Yep - bugger I was thinking of getting one 36v @ 17 amps that would be cool - I was going to mention he'll need the sine wave version

Shame really - 17 amp julet Sine wave controller ; Rocking horse Sh springs to mind:(
 

Nealh

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I still don't see why you just don't get the larger amp version and limit the current.

My lcd is the older version so limits current by 0.5a for each one value so a max of 5a current reduction, versions with later firmware use a % range for current reduction and current can be reduced by as much as 50% so a greater range to work with.

Older firmware C5 / Newer firmware C5 % need confirming
00 = - 5a / NOT USED
01 = - 4.5a / NOT USED
02 = - 4a / NOT USED
03 = - 3.5a / 50%
04 = - 3a / 66.5%
05 = - 2.5a / 75%
06 = - 2a / 80%
07 = - 1.5a / 83%
08 = - 1a / 88%
09 = - 0.5a / 91%
10 = 0a / max current. / 100%/max current
 
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quackstar84

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I still don't see why you just don't get the larger amp version and limit the current.

My lcd is the older version so limits current by 0.5a for each one value so a max of 5a current reduction, versions with later firmware use a % range for current reduction and current can be reduced by as much as 50% so a greater range
oh I though you were against it Nealh. Ive been a full humpty just lately. I may wish to reduce the power though as I want an ebike due to an illness called POTS. It would be useful to help strengten myself. If it is the only option ill go with it. Thanks again for your wisdom.
 

Nealh

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My lcd is V3 and uses the 10 x 0.5a reduction for current, you probably won't know for sure which firmware is loaded until you enter the C parameter to see the settings.

The Yose 1T4 display trunk lead connector you have is 8 pin the Ali express one is 9 pin so it has an extra output may be for lights. If you go for the Ali express one buy the 1T4 display lead with the 9 pin outs to match the controller.

The larger motor connector is fairly standard now with 9 pin Julet connector and most sensored hubs now use it as they have the internal speed sensor.

It can be a bit confusing as Kuenteng offer customistaion if required so if buying from another retailer/ customer who use Kuenteng stuff you have to double check leads/controllers connectors are suitable.
 
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Nealh

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oh I though you were against it Nealh. Ive been a full humpty just lately. I may wish to reduce the power though as I want an ebike due to an illness called POTS. It would be useful to help strengten myself. If it is the only option ill go with it. Thanks again for your wisdom.
No quite the opposite you can reduce the current easier by a press of a few buttons to suit the battery you are using, it is easier and safer then doing the mod shunt to increase current.
Also now 9 fet signwave controllers are available so will ot have the heat issues so much as the 6 fet ones can have, the 9fet ones are marginally larger then the smaller ones but most will fit in a saddle bag or the standard a Yose supplied one.

If I'm only going on a localish 50mile ride I will up the current to get the max in each PAS level, on alonger ride I go the other way a few amps lower to eke out the range a bit more.

My current controller on my Boardman/Yose 700c is 25a so can lower current up to 5a, I very rarely use PAS3 - 5 unless for short steep or longer less steep inclines.
PAS 1 gives me 2.99 - 3.25a using 23 - 25a current & PAS 2 gives me 4.6 - 5a, in benign calm conditions I can pedal over the 20.5mph cut off I use and can nicely then pedal above the cut off to about 24mph and maintain it.
 
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PC2017

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Sweet Nealh you are the yoda of controllers and all things technical - I think he was trying to give YOSE a chance to help him out, I would have already purchased the 22 amp... hold on a min, was it dual voltage? I might get one:cool:
 
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Nealh

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Yes the 22 & 25a are both dual voltage, they are ideal for 36v use.
At 48v they might be a step to far for the Yose at full whack/continuous amps.
 
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quackstar84

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Yes the 22 & 25a are both dual voltage, they are ideal for 36v use.
At 48v they might be a step to far for the Yose at full whack/continuous amps.
So you wouldn't have to limit anything on an 36v battery but with my 48v I would have to? As long as I make sure the amps don't go too far i'll be fine?
 

quackstar84

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The Yose 1T4 display trunk lead connector you have is 8 pin the Ali express one is 9 pin so it has an extra output may be for lights. If you go for the Ali express one buy the 1T4 display lead with the 9 pin outs to match the controller.
Ok so what ever I choose i'll make sure it's an 1t4 (8 pin). Thank you.
 

quackstar84

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I can build my own pcs so I don't understand why this is confusing for me lol. Sorry and thank you for helping me.
 

Nealh

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So you wouldn't have to limit anything on an 36v battery but with my 48v I would have to? As long as I make sure the amps don't go too far i'll be fine?
I have used mine @48v & 20a but not continuously the times I have used it in PAS5 or throttle there was no issue.
 
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Nealh

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When I looked earlier the SW was out of stock, looks like they have restocked.
Go for 22a @48v which is about 850w inc ineffiency loses at the motor, to many watts and the nylon gears of the clutch may get very warm and then they fail.

No one yet has reported on here of any major issues witht the hub, I have used mine at 48v as mentioned in the thread withoutny major issue issue. Mine has 2k miles on it now.
 
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quackstar84

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Which controller do you use nealh? I know at the beginning of this thread you starting using an 36/48v dual controller. Thanks.
 

Nealh

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