Yosepower hub kits.

[PC2017]

48v is the extra wh gained

That'

s why I was planning on going 48v purely range with the option of a little more power in winter windy weather if required - I will have a look at the controllers you listed - thanks.

here an erratic and quite faint "clicking"

Go up a post or two of mine - there's a video link(as purple text), put ear phones on and listen for full speed, rapid throttle on throttle off throttle on again, is this the sound you are hearing?

 

[Olleman]

Nope, that's not what I'm referring to. But I do have that sound you're describing. I always thought this was when the motor changed gears. I try to "ease" into the motor as you're doing to avoid that "clunk".

 

[PC2017]

avoid that "clunk"

I have not had much chance to check for other clicking noises, if I ever get up and running I will listen out for others. - it's really hard to video noises - I do not believe there should be a "clunk" Yose have sent me that motor (internal) to replace the first one as that did the same, they said it was a motor fault, they are sending me another to replace that as the screw threads would not take the nut on one side, but they have not seen that video...

Perhaps someone else could clarify whether on not there should be a clunk or a click - Neither my 250w Yose not my 350w dillenger ever made this noise and I personally don't believe they should make any noise other than the smooth normal tones of operation!

If the next one does not offer a solution to my problem I will be almost annoyed!

 

[Nealh]

Is the noise the freewheel or something else mechanical and not the hub.
I have the CST hub and so far has been faultless with what ever I have thrown at it amps or voltage wise, as mentioned now have 25a KT supplying thought the main reason is not for top amps in PAS 5 or throttle but for slight amp increase in the lower PAS levels and a bit better acceleration/torque.

 

[PC2017]

noise the freewheel or something else mechanical and not the hub.

Check out the video of the second motor internal run with no load due to screw thread issue on mine and let me know what you hear, it's the same as the first motor noise and it runs off the standard 15 amp controller; as for Olleman's noise I don't know

VIDEO Youtube

 

[Nealh]

Check out the video of the second motor internal run with no load due to screw thread issue on mine and let me know what you hear, it's the same as the first motor noise and it runs off the standard 15 amp controller; as for Olleman's noise I don't know

VIDEO Youtube

Tbh I couldn't hear anything out of the unusual, the only clicking noise I can hear is at about 44- 46s where you let the throttle spring back to quick and hits the back stop with a click. If there is a hub clicking or a noise it may be something tiny that is resonating via the wiring from the controller.

 

[PC2017]

couldn't hear anything out of the unusual

Thanks for watching anyway - I would of tested it on load but the thread chaser I ordered has been a week in transit and it was domestic mail!

EDIT....

the only clicking noise I can hear is at about 44- 46s where you let the throttle spring back to quick and hits the back stop with a click

I get that noise you hear yes thats the throttle but at 1:06 on wards when at full speed.1:26 is a good sound level

 

[vfr400]

The clunk is normal. It's just the clutch engaging. It clunks when the wheel is spinning fast because there's a big difference between wheel speed and motor speed when it engages.

 

[PC2017]

clunk is normal

Oh good to know - it is my first rear hub, however I never had that with the 350w dillenger it was smooth even from slow in traffic on PAS5 then throttle to set off, say at a busy A road circle. When I can get a nut on or the other motor internal YOSE is sending I can hopefully get up a running a quit moaning

 

[PC2017]

Third time lucky...

The new motor has arrived and both nuts work on both sides of the axle... Here's hoping all goes well

 

[PC2017]

So far so good - there is still some minor vibration when setting off from stand still, but it quickly dissipates, there's not been one "stall" or "cut off" noise so far however I have only hit PAS5 when near full speed during PAS4/5 it does seem to be a slightly bit noisier than the first motor or any of the front hubs but it might just need a good run to settle in and with the rain and cold that'll hopefully be some time next week!

 

[PC2017]

All seems well - I have to say though front hub esp the 350w seemed or was a lot nippier, much better up hills and head wind, i tested both hills and wind today. I will most likely need time to get accustom to it so I will pass better judgement after a summer of rides!

 

[vfr400]

The power comes from the controller, not the motor, so it's the different controller that makes the other one feel nippier.

 

[PC2017]

so it's the different controller

Na - same controller as my first 350w front - old dillenger one, I rewire the 4t1 cable connector as the original was damaged, I got fed up with not having a stealth controller

 

[Fortanon]

Hi there!
Have been watching this thread for a while. Having developed an 'andy murray' hip I bought a yose 13ah 36v HL, rear hub kit around Oct time last year, fitted it my old rockrider MTB and have been using it for communing to work, 6 miles each way.
I can confirm it runs at around 21mph under its own steam and could prob do 25miles full power limited pedalling. I'm seeing around 480-490w max and have made the adjustments as were in red text on an earlier page for full throttle attack! Unfortunately I discovered in Jan that leaning into bends on -5 degree icy farm tracks at top speed results in a broken wrist.

I've made some beefy toque plates and a few repairs after my crash. I'll get a pic up before long.

Needless to say I want to go faster....I'm doing an complete overhaul on an old dutch bike and I'm temped to swap over the 36v batt/controller to that in combination with a higher torque hub, then buy a 48v batt/controller (preferably integrated as per current hai-long) for my commuter.

I've seen an integrated one on ems battery, but this seems to have a 18a limit, would that make much of a difference over current which i think is 15a?

I'd like a bit more acceleration and top speed , say 26-28mph. 21mph on the farm tracks feels a bit slow.

Mange tak!
Chris

 

[vfr400]

Keep your motor and upgrade the battery and controller to 48V. That'll give you 30% more power, torque and speed.

 

[PC2017]

48v batt/controller

Try that on the yose 350w (assuming you got the 350w?? )first see how you go - start at 18 amps n see how it feels or theres a 22a on topbikekit.com I think with same wiring connectors

 

[dwvl]

I've been playing about with my Yose 250W 36V Front Hub (I bought the 26" kit) because the bike didn't seem as fast at top speed as it should be, when riding with someone else on their ebike. Using GPS, I discovered that the LCD3 readout had been wrong (15mph readout was actually 13mph real-world) so I tweaked the configured wheel size to 24" and now the LCD and GPS speeds match.

Then I started playing with P1 to attempt to get the speed assistance limit set to 15.5mph. To cut a long story short, even with the Max Speed configured to 72kph the bike struggles to reach 15mph on the flat. With the front wheel lifted off the ground, it reaches 17mph maximum (at which point the display shows around 10W power). So there's no point in me reducing the Max Speed configuration from 72kph!

Does 17mph no-load sound right for the front hub run at 36V?

 

[vfr400]

You must check whether the controller is restricting the speed. You have to charge up the battery to full, then measure the no-load speed. Go out for a ride and run the battery as far down a significant amount, like half way, then check the speed again. If the second measurement shows a significantly lower speed, then your motor is restricting it. If the speeds are more or less the same, it's the controller.

Does the motor have any markings on it, like wheel size, RPM or codes of any sort?

 

[PC2017]

Does 17mph no-load sound right for the front hub run at 36V?

Seems like you have the same problem I had, for ages I was convinced that the YOSE 250w front cut out at 15.4mph, the controller wasn't YOSE and that did 19mph+ on a 350w, so I assumed LCD, then it made a complete fool of me when I tried it a year later on a YOSE controller it did 17 mph load speed and faded out not cut out. Ghost in the machine comes to mind... the only thing I could think of was the "imitation torque control" P3 - shot in the dark here though... try P3=1