Yosepower hub kits.

[vfr400]

Yes, but before adjusting P3, make sure you test the speed with level 5 on the LCD, or see if you get adifferent speed on each of the 5 levels.

 

[Nealh]

Front wheel hubs are 210 - 230 rpm so the no load speed is about right 26".

 

[dwvl]

You must check whether the controller is restricting the speed. You have to charge up the battery to full, then measure the no-load speed. Go out for a ride and run the battery as far down a significant amount, like half way, then check the speed again. If the second measurement shows a significantly lower speed, then your motor is restricting it. If the speeds are more or less the same, it's the controller.

Thanks, I'll do that test this weekend probably.

Does the motor have any markings on it, like wheel size, RPM or codes of any sort?

Yes, etched into the side flange is CZJB-26"36V250W180479211N. Does that mean anything to you?

 

[PC2017]

Might also be worth checking a C parameter - to see if the amps have been LCD restricted, another shot in the dark here but C5 should =10

Also make sure your controller actually states 15a +-1a on the sticky label...

 

[vfr400]

Yes, etched into the side flange is CZJB-26"36V250W180479211N. Does that mean anything to you?

Yes, it's for a 26" wheel, which is what I was looking for. Please let us know the test results.

 

[dwvl]

Please let us know the test results.

Will do. Probably after the weekend. Thanks for all the ideas

 

[PC2017]

Well buzzing - This motor is still working as expected, thank the ebike deities where ever they reside... I have just finished installing a rear hydraulic V brake I managed to get it sold separately from bike-discount.de, I also got a shimano altus 3 speed shifter and some spare braks pads... I also had to feng shui my handle bar setup and move the throttle over to the over side, where I never even tried it before and bugger me it works better on the right hand side even with the gear-brake combi in the way!

 

[dwvl]

You must check whether the controller is restricting the speed. You have to charge up the battery to full, then measure the no-load speed. Go out for a ride and run the battery as far down a significant amount, like half way, then check the speed again. If the second measurement shows a significantly lower speed, then your motor is restricting it. If the speeds are more or less the same, it's the controller.

Ok, here are the results, with the speed limit set to 72kph:

Battery fully-charged (LCD3 reads 39.5V): No-load speed over 17mph
Battery pretty empty (LCD3 reads 35.5V): No-load speed 15.0 mph

So that's clear, isn't it? The back EMF of the motor is what's limiting the speed, and there's nothing I can do to improve it apart from increasing battery voltage (which would need a new 48V controller). Not that the speed is a problem - a bit more would be nice, but I want to remain legal .

I haven't performed any more tests - if my understanding is correct there isn't much point, is there?

 

[Frank D]

Hi
The rear yosepower kit that I helped connect has now done over 3000 miles at 48v, no problems at all, it is run with dual volt KT 25amp controller.

 

[vfr400]

Ok, here are the results, with the speed limit set to 72kph:

Battery fully-charged (LCD3 reads 39.5V): No-load speed over 17mph
Battery pretty empty (LCD3 reads 35.5V): No-load speed 15.0 mph

So that's clear, isn't it? The back EMF of the motor is what's limiting the speed, and there's nothing I can do to improve it apart from increasing battery voltage (which would need a new 48V controller).

You're a fast learner.

 

[quackstar84]

Hello. *waves*.... I goofed up again. I connected the controller box to my battery and the terminals were the wrong way around. It's cooked the controller and the capacitor was very angry and lol (I've already cried so i'm laughing now). Could this have also damaged my battery? I think it would have been three-five seconds I had it connected.

Anyhow yose site doesn't list the 48v version for sale. I saw Nealh list one here, may I just ask if it compatible with all the cables already included in the yose kit, such as are the pins the same number and are the plugs the same fit? Just looks like the power cable is different on the aliexpress one. I really miss riding a bike.

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/36V-48V22A-Electric-bicycle-standard-sinewave-controller-Light-function-water-tightness-cable-KT-Series-500W-conversion/3521021_32857864688.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.12.3d6f2fbdgRCubR

Oh and is it sinewave i'd want to buy?

I know it was made fool's proof however I asked my brother in law to connect the whole cable together with my battery cable or just wait till I got bullet points... He went ahead and combined them both anyhow and did a super job... I wasn't sure if the four pins were the right way around... I found the positive and negative on the battery but I couldn't tell which pin they went too as there isn't a + or - on the end of the controller power cable. Dope.

Thank you for your time.

 

[vfr400]

It shouldn't do your battery any harm.

If the controller has the same connectors, it should be compatible.

You want sine wave. The controller you linked to is bigger than the Yose Power one.

 

[dwvl]

You're a fast learner.

I learn mainly from the excellent information people like you provide on this forum.

I hope you realise what a great contribution you and others make to educating people about eBikes. I imagine that for every person like me who posts occasionally, there are tens or hundreds who never post but do read and benefit from what you write.

Thanks again

 

[PC2017]

never post but do read and benefit from

I never really think of it like that, I do myself read other forums on all sorts of stuff and never post, can't be arsed to sign up lol - How inspiring

bigger than the Yose Power one.

Ooh yer 22amps the one he blew is 17amps

http://www.topbikekit.com/t09s-36v48v500w-torque-simulation-sine-wave-controller-with-julei-waterproof-connector-p-760.html

This one is 22amps too but you could/should lower it via the LCD

 

[vfr400]

I never really think of it like that, I do myself read other forums on all sorts of stuff and never post, can't be arsed to sign up lol - How inspiring


Ooh yer 22amps the one he blew is 17amps

http://www.topbikekit.com/t09s-36v48v500w-torque-simulation-sine-wave-controller-with-julei-waterproof-connector-p-760.html

This one is 22amps too but you could/should lower it via the LCD

The 22 amos is not a problem. I was referring to the physical size. Look at the dimensions listed and check that it fits in wherever you intend it to.

 

[Nealh]

If you are using the Yose triangle bag is should fit in, as mentioned physically it is a little larger dimensionally. You will have the choice of using 36 or 48v battery with it, at 36v/22a the Yose cst will handle the wattage and probably may do at 48v. The most I have tried at 48v is 20a and was able to go 28mph bit not a speed I could sustain for miles and miles.

If using the max amps just check your battery can deliver the power required.

The kits use Julet connectors so they should all be wired to a standard sequene as should the 22A KT controller, the only fitting that may be different is the cut off brakes if you want one.
I can't remember if the Yose uses a Red (2 pin) or Yellow (3 pin) Julet.

 

[PC2017]

physical size

Yep that too I was more worried about their battery and 22 amps, I doubt a YOSE cheap battery would enjoy 22amps in one go let alone in small bursts - assuming they are using a YOSE battery with generic cells!

Yellow (3 pin) Julet

Defo 3 pin I use a 4to1 cable with Red 2 pin for my brake sensors the YOSE 4to1 is no good for me I have 1 shifter and brake combi and the new hydraulic brake on the rear

 

[quackstar84]

http://www.topbikekit.com/t09s-36v48v500w-torque-simulation-sine-wave-controller-with-julei-waterproof-connector-p-760.html

This one is 22amps too but you could/should lower it via the LCD

Hum the link doesn't load for me. I'm in the UK. Turned my VPN off as well.

Oh it works now. =)

So with the one I linked I wouldn't be able to lower the amps. Which one should I go for please?

 

[quackstar84]

If you are using the Yose triangle bag is should fit in, as mentioned physically it is a little larger dimensionally. You will have the choice of using 36 or 48v battery with it, at 36v/22a the Yose cst will handle the wattage and probably may do at 48v. The most I have tried at 48v is 20a and was able to go 28mph bit not a speed I could sustain for miles and miles.

If using the max amps just check your battery can deliver the power required.

The kits use Julet connectors so they should all be wired to a standard sequence as should the 22A KT controller, the only fitting that may be different is the cut off brakes if you want one.
I can't remember if the Yose uses a Red (2 pin) or Yellow (3 pin) Julet.

Hello Nealh. Yes i'll be using that. I've got an 48V 14.5Ah lithium ion Hairon LG cells from elifebike2010.

So I can just use the LCD and set it to road legal limits and be fine? I'm not fussed about going over 15.5mph yet =)

 

[quackstar84]

Yep that too I was more worried about their battery and 22 amps, I doubt a YOSE cheap battery would enjoy 22amps in one go let alone in small bursts - assuming they are using a YOSE battery with generic cells!


Defo 3 pin I use a 4to1 cable with Red 2 pin for my brake sensors the YOSE 4to1 is no good for me I have 1 shifter and brake combi and the new hydraulic brake on the rear

Hello PC2017. So wouldn't it be compatable? I'd could use that controller but not the cut of brakes? But there is one I could buy? Thank you.