Yosepower hub kits.

[vfr400]

It looks OK. Did you pull the wire central before you started screwing?

 

[PC2017]

It looks OK

That's what I thought when I looked after you mentioned using a file, it seems to go on one or two threads and then stops dead and both screws go on the other side perfect... I do know that sometimes if the wire is not straight it causes miss alignment of the screw but not in this case, I have a M12 1.25mm Thread pitch die on its way so fingers crossed it can restore the threads so I can test this motor!

 

[Nealh]

Most likely the tapped thread in the nut is damaged, the axle is a hardened metal compared to the nut. Buy a new nut / arw set and all should be ok, this is what I did with my Q128c.

 

[PC2017]

thread in the nut is damaged

I'll take my titanium nuts off the front hub and try them, but if all 3 zinc yose nuts worked on one side I feel the problem lies with the axle

 

[davie150]

Took my bike out today, 21 miles in total and battery is down to 1 light out of four, I assume it will take a few cycles to get up to full strength and the throttle was used quite a lot today by people having a go lol.
All seems well, PAS sensor is still a bit loose and slowly turns clock while the bike is ridden, I have put a small tie wrap around the square part of sensor and connected it to a wrap around the frame to hold it in place.

I enjoyed the run this tea time, I got in to the habit of keeping the assist on 3 and when hitting a hill or stopping at lights, I used the throttle as a boost to get up to speed then using pedal force and assist 3 from then on

 

[davie150]

I forgot to mention on last post, I have a problem with my gears, When I try move the gear on left hand side on to high, which moves the the front sprocket, I cannot get the lever to turn enough. I have turned the screws that helps move the guide for the chain on to the sprocket and the lever then goes to the top, but when I then move gear on left to low then the cable goes all slack
I am new to all this, how do I rectify this problem.
Thanks

 

[PC2017]

I am new to all this

For general bike maintenance, from my experience it is best to replace all that is rusted and or worn, gear cables and brake cable to actual components... If you have money then the local bike shop or find someone willing to replace parts for small sums of money but be aware some of these guys could be using dodgy parts! Me I use a combination of bike shop in the winter as my hands are more effective in the spring and summer and youtube - until last week I had never replaced a gear cable in my entire biking life even when I was once fit and healthy nor a rear derailleur and I did both and fine tuned it to perfection with a little know how from youtube or try googling Sheldon Brown bike repair.

 

[Benjahmin]

I forgot to mention on last post, I have a problem with my gears, When I try move the gear on left hand side on to high, which moves the the front sprocket, I cannot get the lever to turn enough. I have turned the screws that helps move the guide for the chain on to the sprocket and the lever then goes to the top, but when I then move gear on left to low then the cable goes all slack
I am new to all this, how do I rectify this problem.
Thanks

Just google,'How to adjust front deraileur', you'll get all the help you need.

 

[davie150]

Just google,'How to adjust front deraileur', you'll get all the help you need.

I did not goggle it I just had a go this afternoon and managed to get it to work.
I will have a proper look tomorrow

 

[PC2017]

So YOSE are now sending me another ROTOR
What is the chance that the first motor wasn't actually cutting out power wise, would it be possible to be skipping a tooth on the outer case cog, I tried the new rotor minus the drive side nut and it seemed to be cutting in and out again with no load, if I ran the wheel on PAS 5 then throttle off and straight on again full throttle it felt like it was cutting out again (new rotor first wheel motor case) however if I let the throttle off when the wheel hit full speed then allowed the motor to slow a little before hitting max on the throttle it did not cut out, same applied with the wheel at full speed then throttle off but this time I gradually increase the throttle back to max.

VIDEO on youtube new upload so maybe low quality for 24hrs - should be 720p

managed to get it to work

Good... You would be surprised how well a new gear cable improves shifting... When I did the rear derailleur I tried to reuse the old cable but after a few attempts at trying I decide to change the cable and OMG it work near perfect first time!

 

[davie150]

So YOSE are now sen


Good... You would be surprised how well a new gear cable improves shifting... When I did the rear derailleur I tried to reuse the old cable but after a few attempts at trying I decide to change the cable and OMG it work near perfect first time!

I will look at getting a new cable this week then, I have fixed it to a degree, but was struggling to get it to stay in the high gears today.
First ride home from work this morning and did it in 16 minutes, so much easier than before, love it

 

[PC2017]

easier than before

More enjoyable and less sweaty too

 

[davie150]

More enjoyable and less sweaty too

I was still sweaty though. 16 minutes was half the time of what I was doing a month ago, but I was pedalling non stop all the way to get that time.

 

[vfr400]

You just need to adjust it properly. I doubt that you need a new cable.

 

[davie150]

You just need to adjust it properly. I doubt that you need a new cable.

The cable is the original cable on the bike, over 10 years old at least.
I will have a proper look on my next day off

 

[Nealh]

15 months on and the Yose hub is till going strong, have now swapped out the 20a 6 fet for a 25a 9 fet sinewave @36v. I have been messing about with 3s booster packs for a while to ride at 48v but decided to revert solely back to 36v for ease of charging and paralleling packs without to much messing about.
I had been umming and erring going over fully to bespoke 48v packs and new chargers but decided to consolidate what I have and improve it for 36v.
I have 3 PF packs (currently my go for cell for the price) which give great discharge and can parallel them to have 14p.
So far a brief spurt at 25a 858w on the console showed power delivery nice and smooth with immense acceleration, mainly though I am using Pas 2 and seeing about 265w displayed and plenty of poke, once I'm pootling along Pas 1 enables me to keep the same speed saving a few mah.

I found the KT 6fet did suffer from getting hot and thermal cut outs in my underslung top tube bag ( as has AK), I added heat sink & fan cooling to combat the heat but now hope the 9 fet controller and larger case will be less of a problem.

 

[PC2017]

the 9 fet controller

Where did you get the new controller from? I assume it's old wiring

 

[Olleman]

Your controller sounds great @Nealh. I'm fairly satisfied with the orginal setup incluing the solder mod but wouldn't mind a little more power on steeper hills etc. To be honest, after having done 800+ km, I wouldn't mind a little more speed as well, suddenly 33-35 km/h doesn't feel that fast anymore!

A question for all of you with the rear kit: Do you sometimes here an erratic and quite faint "clicking" sound from the motor? I thought it was coming from the bike first but the sound is only there while the engine is engaged. The sound also seems to come and go.

 

[Nealh]

Where did you get the new controller from? I assume it's old wiring

I only bought the kit to try out the hub motor but have since sold the controller, V12L and swapped the 1-4 cable for the seperate phase/hall one. My bike originally set up with Q128c and KT 20a dual volt model non julet cables , so a quick swap over of hub job done.
New 9fet sinewave controller come via ebay for £29 and in my view @36v it performs better then the 6 fet one at 48v.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ebike-Brushless-Controller-36V-48v-500W-9-Mosfet-KT-Sine-Wave-Controller/253946414941?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Aliexpress seller does a 22a 9 fet s/w model with julet.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Waterproof-Connector-36V-48V-500W-22A-9-Mosfet-Electric-bicycle-Brushless-Controller-Sinewave-KT-Series-Support/32961946266.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.156.151633delhM3n4&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10065_10130_10068_10547_319_317_10548_10696_10192_10190_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303_537_536_10902_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_16,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=542424f6-31a2-406f-895b-1a2f1fa238e5-21&algo_pvid=542424f6-31a2-406f-895b-1a2f1fa238e5&transAbTest=ae803_3
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/36V-48V22A-Electric-bicycle-standard-sinewave-controller-Light-function-water-tightness-cable-KT-Series-500W-conversion/3521021_32857864688.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.12.3d6f2fbdgRCubR

The torque/ acceleration at 36v with about 260w pas2 is very good and is much better then when I had it at 48v, this is obvious as at 48v pas2 was about about 1a less. The main advantage lost form 48v is the extra wh gained, the faster speed over 20mph I rarely used as for a longer ride it was a compromise of range.

 

[Nealh]

Your controller sounds great @Nealh. I'm fairly satisfied with the orginal setup incluing the solder mod but wouldn't mind a little more power on steeper hills etc. To be honest, after having done 800+ km, I wouldn't mind a little more speed as well, suddenly 33-35 km/h doesn't feel that fast anymore!

A question for all of you with the rear kit: Do you sometimes here an erratic and quite faint "clicking" sound from the motor? I thought it was coming from the bike first but the sound is only there while the engine is engaged. The sound also seems to come and go.

At 48v I have had it to just a tad over 28mph with 20a controller and was spinning out at 48/11 gearing. That high speed isn't of interest to me but wanted to see how fast I could push it.