Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
So kudos to YOSE they have agreed to send me the motor internals and the outer case, as I mentioned that the screws used in the motor side plate are of substandard metal.... I was surprised to see screws as the first motor was Allen bolts, so is the YOSE 250w....
Anyway quick question... If I decide to replace the motor and rebuild the wheel (at a bike shop) would it be ok to use the existing spokes or would the bike shop need to get new spokes??
EDIT getting the screws out was a two man job, lucky for me dad came to assist, with a little hammering and the blow torch we got em out
Anyway quick question... If I decide to replace the motor and rebuild the wheel (at a bike shop) would it be ok to use the existing spokes or would the bike shop need to get new spokes??
EDIT getting the screws out was a two man job, lucky for me dad came to assist, with a little hammering and the blow torch we got em out
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My kit arrived today, I had a wee look tonight after my work.
Swapped my tyre over to new wheel and put on new freewheel, I have also put new wheel in place
I will not be able to put the bracket for holding the battery in to the holes for my water bottle as they are too far down the bar on my bike.
Swapped my tyre over to new wheel and put on new freewheel, I have also put new wheel in place
I will not be able to put the bracket for holding the battery in to the holes for my water bottle as they are too far down the bar on my bike.
You have two options buy some rivnuts and fit a two or three new ones or drill new holes in the battery carrier to line up with the bottle rivnuts.
I opened up the battery carrier and it has the controller in there, so no room to drill holes.
I will have to buy rivnuts then.
Just had a look online and I will have to buy a rivnuts tool as well to get the rivnuts in.
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Just refitted my front hub as a temporary stop gap while I wait for the new rear motor to arrive from direct from YOSE... So I decided to fit the DNP freewheel and I have to say I am not overly impressed, so far the less teeth on the high gear is pretty good however there's an overall feeling of something grinding and slight less smoothness in the gear change and I have checked everything over twice.. So I am going to stick with Shimano in the future.
Yeah, but do I need a new bracket, as I cannot see any teeth there to connect the PAS connected to
Yes, get it from Halfords about £10. You need to measure the length of your present one after you disassemble it, then get one the same length or next size up.
Think I will need a bigger length one, I am going to Halfords tomorrow any way, so I will take existing one and get one with the teeth on the side
I finally got the PAS from topbikekit to fit on my bike with the stubborn crank arm.
All kinds of strange things have been happening since installing this. Sometime the throttle only works in correspondence to the PAS level selected even though my PAS3 setting is for the throttle to work independently. Sometime the throttle only works at full throttle and nothing below and sometimes neither throttle or PAS works at all! Sometimes the PAS level seems to correspond to a certain MAX wattage and sometimes it seems to correspond to speed.
All of the above can change from one ride to the next.
All above is fixed by resetting the controller. Do I need to change any other setting for this particular PAS to work? I'm considdering disconnecting the PAS since I've really gotten the hang of riding with throttle technique but it would be nice to be legal-ish without the throttle...
Can't say that I'm that impressed by the PAS function overall, seems very rough, even my friends eBike bought from a really cheap reseller (500£ for the complete bike) have a nicer PAS function.
All kinds of strange things have been happening since installing this. Sometime the throttle only works in correspondence to the PAS level selected even though my PAS3 setting is for the throttle to work independently. Sometime the throttle only works at full throttle and nothing below and sometimes neither throttle or PAS works at all! Sometimes the PAS level seems to correspond to a certain MAX wattage and sometimes it seems to correspond to speed.
All of the above can change from one ride to the next.
All above is fixed by resetting the controller. Do I need to change any other setting for this particular PAS to work? I'm considdering disconnecting the PAS since I've really gotten the hang of riding with throttle technique but it would be nice to be legal-ish without the throttle...
Can't say that I'm that impressed by the PAS function overall, seems very rough, even my friends eBike bought from a really cheap reseller (500£ for the complete bike) have a nicer PAS function.
It sounds like you have your controller set to speed control rather than power control. The throttle is a speed controller and so is the PAS if you have it set to speed control, so whichever is the higher wins and takes control.
You have to set P3 to1
As far as I understand P3=1 means throttle is independent of PAS level and I have that setting and even then, sometimes the throttle is limited by the PAS level. For the trip to work today the throttle worked independently of the PAS but setting PAS=0 turns it off. This can change from one ride to the next without me even entering the settings mode!
What setting changes speed to power control?
Is my understanding of english this bad or is the translation wrong in themanual? P3 setting seems to refer to throttle being governed by which PAS setting is used?
https://880b28d3d003e6b1c176-ee9159906b823979ce618332e73bec87.ssl.cf4.rackcdn.com/other/en_KT-LCD3.pdf
https://880b28d3d003e6b1c176-ee9159906b823979ce618332e73bec87.ssl.cf4.rackcdn.com/other/en_KT-LCD3.pdf
You could have tried it and seen whether it solved your problem in less time than what it took to write that, then you'd only have to write "thanks".
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