I had a clicking noise coming from my front mxus hub (that kept time with the front wheel turning) and it stopped when I tightened the spokes.
Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
Like sturmey says check your spokes - Welcome sturmey!
Have you powered up the bike whilst not riding it, lift up the motor wheel and use the throttle to run it and listen for the noise see if its coming from the motor.... I had a vibration on my 1st conversion it turned out the be the brake noodle rattling...
I think i fixed the noise but i still can't seem to get the back break to work properly no matter what i do. I've played with pads and break position. I've even changed it for one off another bike but no luck. It always either rubs or gives poor breaking. It's nothing like the front which has a nice sharp stop.
Im not sure what to do at this point but give up.
Yes indeed - Brakes are a nemesis of mine too - HOWEVER you really do NOT want a sharp lever pull to stop this can be very dangerous especially when wet, watch a couple of youtube vids about how to fix brakes they may offer tips and help... What kind of brakes are you using? Mine are v-brakes and the pads need to point inwards at the front of the pad and slightly outwards at the back, like, if you stand feet slightly apart and point your toes inwards to touch your toes together without touching the rest of your foot, if any of that make sense, trust me I know how hard it can be to align brakes - failing that, if you have a bike shop near by they should be able to fix the brakes for you - my local shop charges about £10-15 depending if need new pads, I only use my bike shop when its winter or I have failed at fixing them myself, this year I managed it after several weeks of squeaky brakes!
Spoke to Alice at Yosepower, 350w rear motor kits with battery back in stock next week. I'm looking for another 36v 13ah Hailong battery from them (as in the kit), have been told no stock coming for 2 months . Also looking for a 700c/350w/with battery kit for converting my bro's bike), however, the kit with battery, (rear wheel 350w) in 700c is only available with a freewheel I'm told by Alice, not the cassette version (although they sell the wheel kit with no battery in cassette/700c)...looks like I gonna have to source the wheel kit and battery seperately, but that will mean missing out on the integrated controller in the battery holder, which is neat
. Also looking for a 700c/350w/with battery kit for converting my bro's bike), however, the kit with battery, (rear wheel 350w) in 700c is only available with a freewheel I'm told by Alice, not the cassette version (although they sell the wheel kit with no battery in cassette/700c)...looks like I gonna have to source the wheel kit and battery seperately, but that will mean missing out on the integrated controller in the battery holder, which is neatThey're disk breaks. The front isn't extreme or anything. It has a enough give to ease into a stop.
Im starting to think it's some off center/angle issue so the break pads don't clamp down flat. Having tried all sorts im going to live with it for now and use it as a weak slow down break. I read front breaking is best anyway as back is more likely to skid and ebikes do have higher speeds and more torque.
Im now thinking about adding another torque arm...
Hailing battery holder controllers can be sourced from bmsbattery
Be aware, there are now 2 sized of hailong battery
You DEFO have to check some details as I have just clicked and copied just as a guide, check the size of the controller compared with your current setup,
I assume the 52pcs are cells in the battery not sure on that one I think YOSE batteries have less cells (I think one of the companies has got something wrong there in translation but I am no battery expert)
I emailed for a quote on topbikes battery prices and they are double that of YOSE but include custom taxes however like I have mentioned before I have NOT done any research into inclusive customs taxes, I find it hard to believe unless like YOSE its dispatched from the EU
The good thing is you can add all the bits you need from cables to LCD they should all be KT but do check and check again, however it will cost a fair wack esp in P&P
EDIT forgot the link
http://www.topbikekit.com/36v48v-6mosfets-sine-wave-controller-for-hailong-case-52pcs-cells-p-695.html
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I too have just put the 250W front hub kit on my bike (26" wheels). I'm very pleased with the performance and the installation, but the motor is noisier than I was expecting. It sounds quite buzzy / grindy, which increases with load. I can just feel the vibrations through the handlebars.
It's certainly significantly noisier than the Raleigh Array that my wife has, and than the Carrera Crossfire-e I trialled.
Is this your experience too? Are they all like that? Will it quieten down with use (I've done less than 50 miles so far)? Should I lubricate it somehow?
Make sure the motor connector is fully together, other wise remove the side plate and check to see how much grease is in there. If you need more grease use a non petroleum based one .
EDIT - nealh beat me to it lol
Without hearing it myself I couldn't pass on very many words of wisdom, If you have a good video cam with fairly good audio quality I would personally lift the bike off the ground and run the motor, firstly to hear if the noise is just the hum of the motor or actual grinding and record it for a good length of time, if it is the later may I suggest you contact Alice at Yose customer support,(they MAY require a video posted on youtube) As for my motor I thought it was slightly quieter than my 350w dillenger and since you have experience from your other bikes, I would say you are quite right to question this noise!
From my experience of taking these motors a part, I have found they have a lot of grease inside were the plastic cogs meet the hub ( am sure there's some technical term for these but hey there are plastic cogs lol) maybe the factory did not apply enough grease or worse one the bearings has gone in the planetary gearing - I WOULD NOT TAKE IT TO BITS UNLESS YOU'VE SPOKE TO YOSE FIRST!
Any ideas on how much grease is enough grease and do you add more/refresh your grease at 1000 miles?
I have not had the need to open mine yet, it is all but quiet in running bar a very low audible hum.
Generally I open geared hubs at 2k miles just to have a look or if a bearing is worn which manifests as a grinding/wear noise that is audible. A loss of drive if it occurred or a stuck clutch would be the only other need to open.
I have found them to be very reliable and as mentioned bearings at the 1.5k - 2k mark may start to get noisier.
My bafangs have a dark grease so I used a Castrol moly grease I have had for years to top up, the old grease looked fine.
Also have some Aeroshell 22 so another option if and when I need.
Cleaning out old grease really only needed if it has gone milky through water ingress and rust/oxidation which will manifest it self. Amount doesn't really matter though too little may cause more noise through lack of contact. A liberal coating mainly on the fixed casing gear, 1/2 a hand or cup full in quantity.
I helped a guy out on another forum with his hub motor as it lost drive, I noticed he had the cable exiting upwards and suspected it was heavily oxidised due to water ingress. When he opened it up this was the case it was red/brown incrusted and needed some force to pry open but after a good strip down/clean, he gave it a good regrease and so far seems to be working ok.
Generally I open geared hubs at 2k miles just to have a look or if a bearing is worn which manifests as a grinding/wear noise that is audible. A loss of drive if it occurred or a stuck clutch would be the only other need to open.
I have found them to be very reliable and as mentioned bearings at the 1.5k - 2k mark may start to get noisier.
My bafangs have a dark grease so I used a Castrol moly grease I have had for years to top up, the old grease looked fine.
Also have some Aeroshell 22 so another option if and when I need.
Cleaning out old grease really only needed if it has gone milky through water ingress and rust/oxidation which will manifest it self. Amount doesn't really matter though too little may cause more noise through lack of contact. A liberal coating mainly on the fixed casing gear, 1/2 a hand or cup full in quantity.
I helped a guy out on another forum with his hub motor as it lost drive, I noticed he had the cable exiting upwards and suspected it was heavily oxidised due to water ingress. When he opened it up this was the case it was red/brown incrusted and needed some force to pry open but after a good strip down/clean, he gave it a good regrease and so far seems to be working ok.
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The only time I have noticed any grinding is with worn bearings, either a side plate one if fitted or one on the opposite face. Also there should be a larger central core bearing.
If it sounds quite loud and mechanical / buzzy it is most likely be an electrical contact noise.
If the motor wire connection joint is ok, I would say check the phase wire contacts but these are a sealed julet 9 pin moulded connector. Most likely a controller fault otherwise.
If it sounds quite loud and mechanical / buzzy it is most likely be an electrical contact noise.
If the motor wire connection joint is ok, I would say check the phase wire contacts but these are a sealed julet 9 pin moulded connector. Most likely a controller fault otherwise.
Cheers for the info, its good to arm ones self with this kind of knowledge, I have never removed the side plate from my YOSE but as you may know the dillenger has seen better days side plate wise, I must check mine for water intake as its not as sealed as it once was, however I do minimise the time spent on the rain and going through surface water if possible. What can be done about bearing wear, can the planetary gearing be replaced and what if the clutch goes?
You can't stop the bearings from wear it is down to how much pressure is on the bearing laterally, they are easy to replace and have a part number stamped on them, so are easy to source for 2 or 3 quid.
A bit like GXP/Hollow tech BB's eventually bearings will wear.
Plant gears are probably replaceable as individual components most likely Bafang might be similar, though my first port of call would be Yose to see if they would supply.
So far the hubs appear to be holding up and mine is run at 48v and sees 650w+ as times & I don't mollycoddle mine, it gets used off road on rough tracks, bridleways, fields and on the N & S downs.
A bit like GXP/Hollow tech BB's eventually bearings will wear.
Plant gears are probably replaceable as individual components most likely Bafang might be similar, though my first port of call would be Yose to see if they would supply.
So far the hubs appear to be holding up and mine is run at 48v and sees 650w+ as times & I don't mollycoddle mine, it gets used off road on rough tracks, bridleways, fields and on the N & S downs.
I do remember seeing some replacement parts on BMS or PSW and I think they were bafang - If you ever do replace any part have you considered doing a video tutorial on how to?
The hardest part with hubs is opening them esp the ones screwed together, the side plate variants are easy. Often the first few mm to pry a part can be tight esp if moisture has got in and oxidised.
Next time I open/work on a hub I will post a how to thread with pics and description of task, could be a while though unless something goes.
The clutch nylon gears should be quite easy to find spares for and if retained by a circlip just a case of swapping out, various selections are available with sizes & teeth count to suit most needs.
Not many of the parts I would have thought are bespoke machined items and would think most parts are of an already soured nature.
Next time I open/work on a hub I will post a how to thread with pics and description of task, could be a while though unless something goes.
The clutch nylon gears should be quite easy to find spares for and if retained by a circlip just a case of swapping out, various selections are available with sizes & teeth count to suit most needs.
Not many of the parts I would have thought are bespoke machined items and would think most parts are of an already soured nature.
Nice - that would be awesome - I wouldn't want to jinx either of us lol - I cant find them nylon gears I saw but I will keep looking - I have heard stories of some hub motors reaching 5-6000 miles and mines at 3359 plus a few hundred unrecorded miles on another LCD, but everything seems fine but I do think i'l give it check inside and some fresh grease if I can be arsed to take the wheel off
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