Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
So will the switch be good enough to handle these do you think?
Specs say rated current 7a, max current 15a.
Though the switch is only 10a it has 4 pins so two sides. Would it be better to connect both red and black to each side of the switch or just black to both sides?
No.Does this happen when the on case power switch is off?? surely not
My reply was general one, as Mags asked about not having a switch mode to turn off. Not having a switch and leaving an drain cells most likely the first and last string of cells.
I use cheap simple 99p switch's from ebay sellers.
Put the switch on the v+ side of the battery as it is only voltage you need to worry about.
Put the switch on the v+ side of the battery as it is only voltage you need to worry about.
Was this on topbikekit or somewhere else? Mine is similar, the sensor is bigger on mine, please let us know how well it works and if it fits ok - I had to remove the sensor and fashion a piece of metal round my back wheel frame which I attached the sensor too and then used my 12 magnet disk instead of the 5 pole supplied.
Sorry it's taken a while to get back to you, been touring France and Germany on my little Honda, amazed by the number of e-bikes being used around the Rhine and Moselle, outnumbering pushbikes by about 5 to 1.
Back to the PAS, it's not going to work as I'd hoped it would, how stupid am I?. The clue is in the name D12L, the 'L' means left of course, the detector is unidirectional and will only work on the left hand side.
By careful drilling and shaping of the magnet ring I can make it work on the left hand side of the Hollowtech crank. It won't be elegant, but it'll have to do until I find the perfect solution. Yosepower have the parts I need, but I'm too stubborn to pay the stupid 15 quid delivery charge.
Pete.
Sorry to hear that, I think neahl did mention something about the "L" so kudos to him...
You could do what I did and chop the julet connector off and rewire it a basic PAS, I will admit when I first got my kit I did want an inside the chainring PAS but it seemed impossible at the time and the only reason I wanted one is again in case anyone tried thieving my magnet ring.
Maybe try aliexpress for a basic three wire single unit PAS with free delivery
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-V12-PAS-sensor-for-front-rear-hub-motor-install-on-the-right-side/32788853128.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10065_10068_10130_10547_10059_10548_10696_100031_10192_10190_10084_10083_10103_451_10618_452_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303,searchweb201603_56,ppcSwitch_7&algo_expid=dfb3c506-455e-470b-8c32-729aa73731b8-18&algo_pvid=dfb3c506-455e-470b-8c32-729aa73731b8&priceBeautifyAB=0
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Fitted the PAS this morning, quite a simple and easy procedure.
I took off the left crank and removed a 4mm washer that sits between the crank arm and bottom bracket.
Used a small blade to remove the 'fingers' from the magnet ring, this happened to coincide with the inner diameter of the washer I removed.
Also the magnet ring is 4mm thick, so it fitted perfectly where the washer used to sit.
There wasn't enough room between the magnets and the chainstay to fit the detector so I mounted it on the downtube. I'm relatively pleased with the result, at least it works properly and I can now use the bike at last.
Haven't had time for a proper run yet, but first impressions are good. It seems to ride well, and it's QUICK.
Thanks for the link, looks like just what I wanted, right side permanently fixed detector which will allow me to put some neodymium magnets on the granny ring.
Pete.
I took off the left crank and removed a 4mm washer that sits between the crank arm and bottom bracket.
Used a small blade to remove the 'fingers' from the magnet ring, this happened to coincide with the inner diameter of the washer I removed.
Also the magnet ring is 4mm thick, so it fitted perfectly where the washer used to sit.
There wasn't enough room between the magnets and the chainstay to fit the detector so I mounted it on the downtube. I'm relatively pleased with the result, at least it works properly and I can now use the bike at last.
Haven't had time for a proper run yet, but first impressions are good. It seems to ride well, and it's QUICK.
Thanks for the link, looks like just what I wanted, right side permanently fixed detector which will allow me to put some neodymium magnets on the granny ring.
Pete.
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I'm trying to keep it as neat and simple as possible, I'm not using a throttle and I don't feel I need brake cutoffs. The power stops immediately when you stop pedaling, you just have to be careful when negotiating tight spaces.
Pete.
Pete.
Did you know that the magnet disk comes in 2 halves, once the metal outer ring is removed? Well either way it looks nice and I am a bit jealous, I got one of them without the julet connector and tried to add one of my spare connectors and it failed, I think it was faulty though.
This is a tricky one... I think there is a solution out there, I remember reading about it. If you consider the brake sensors (mainly for hydraulic brakes) be careful, my YOSE kit 4 to 1 cable, the brake connectors(cable end) are male to female, female on the actual brake and the after market brake sensors are male so you'll need a different 4 to 1 cable as for the other connectors (LCD,Throttle and controller) they are all standard.
Ok thanks. I just want to double check as i've been using it for sometime now and it seems ok but is normal pc power supply kettle type mains plug wire ok to use between battery and controller?
I was just reading about wire types and noticed the wires on the control box cable seem to be solid?
I don't want to have too thin wires and heat or power issues.
So is the wire in normal house mains type cable not 14 or 12 awg then?
I tried but couldn't find a simple answer to this after searching.
It seems to do the job ok for now but if there's any concern i will change it if need be.
First run out on the newly converted Trek yesterday. Very pleased with performance and ride comfort. I've put a 28mm tyre on the rear, which is about the maximum the frame will take.
I have a slight indexing problem on the larger rear sprockets which should be easy to fix, and it appears that I need another adjustment to the rear wheel dishing. I thought it was ok but it's obviously settled in after the run and is now a couple of mil out.
I'd like to able to post the garmin data but can't get my head around it at the moment. Anyway 44.51 miles, average speed 11.3 (we're usually around 12.5) and 2175ft of climbing on a 7Ah battery, and yes, it was pretty flat when I got home. As a comparison one of the guys on the ride has a recently acquired Halfords Carrera with a 11.5 Ah battery, he was down to one flashing bar for the last 6 or 7 miles.
I'm very impressed with the whole package, I think the Yosepower is probably the best value kit available.
Pete.
I have a slight indexing problem on the larger rear sprockets which should be easy to fix, and it appears that I need another adjustment to the rear wheel dishing. I thought it was ok but it's obviously settled in after the run and is now a couple of mil out.
I'd like to able to post the garmin data but can't get my head around it at the moment. Anyway 44.51 miles, average speed 11.3 (we're usually around 12.5) and 2175ft of climbing on a 7Ah battery, and yes, it was pretty flat when I got home. As a comparison one of the guys on the ride has a recently acquired Halfords Carrera with a 11.5 Ah battery, he was down to one flashing bar for the last 6 or 7 miles.
I'm very impressed with the whole package, I think the Yosepower is probably the best value kit available.
Pete.
Hopefully someone here more experienced with bike issues can help me.
It's been fine for months but has started making a weird clicking noise which seems to happen mainly when powered. Going downhill unassisted doesn't seem to. I've also tried looking for the source but i can't see what it might be.
Any ideas?
It's been fine for months but has started making a weird clicking noise which seems to happen mainly when powered. Going downhill unassisted doesn't seem to. I've also tried looking for the source but i can't see what it might be.
Any ideas?
Something similar on the German pedelec forum https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/günstiges-und-robustes-umbauset.46518/page-8
Might be worth a look (you'll need google translate unless you sprechen sie Deutch)
Pete.
Might be worth a look (you'll need google translate unless you sprechen sie Deutch)
Pete.
Thanks i had a look. Hopefully it's just something rubbing and not a real issue.
I did have some trouble getting the brake disk aligned. I added a washer on inside but it's still not right. Brake only just works. It was either no fit or poor fit. I will have to try some thinner washers perhaps and try to get it perfect.
Im also wondering if these are supposed to take 8 speed or just 7?
I got 8 and put the tab washer on the gear side facing out to get enough space.
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