Not yet. I'm moving so it will take a little more time. The good news is that where I'm moving to has space for working on bikes
Yosepower hub kits.
- Thread starter Nealh
- Start date
Not to sure of what you mean -
But I have a front hub YOSE 250w and I would say IT IS NOT the same from what I have read on this thread the 350w YOSE has a higher RMP than my 250w. My 250w would not exceed 15mph on throttle alone, even on my 350w system yet my 350w front hub (not YOSE) will reach 19mph on throttle alone.
Dual volt ones have a light/horn out puts and other spare out puts, I think I did test them and they weren't permanent live. That is why I went with small 2P battery.
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14g sapim strongs.
You can't guess or assume.
You have to use a spoke calculator to get the right length spokes but to do that you need to know the ERD of the rim you want to use as they all vary and a few mm out and you will have lacing/tensioning issues.
Measure the rim internally across 2 or 3 points to get your measurement in mm then add 5mm for the wall/material thickness. Another method is to cut down two old spokes the same length 200mm & screw a nipple on so flush with spoke end, insert in to opposing holes fully then measure distance between the spokes. Add the 400mm to this distance for effective ERD.
https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/
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Thinking of a Yosepower hub kit - not sure whether front or rear? But rear hub only seems available with the 350w motor?
However, if using bike without battery, how much drag / resistance is there from the motor?
Otherwise the kits seem remarkable value - how good are the LGF1L battery cells in the 36v 16ah battery?
However, if using bike without battery, how much drag / resistance is there from the motor?
Otherwise the kits seem remarkable value - how good are the LGF1L battery cells in the 36v 16ah battery?
Any drag /resistance is non existent with geared hubs.
What you actually feel is the extra motor hub weight vs a normal light weight bike hub. The weight being centred all at the hub gives the riding affect of drag which is an illusion.
On level ground I can peddle to 19mph.
Front kits are 250w rated .
LGF1L are 4.8a rated mediocre cells ok for low power with a 10 or 12a controller.
Should be ok with 15a controller if you don't go to fast unrestricted, probable decent usable life in legal mode 3 or 4 years. If used in unrestricted fast modet 18 months or so before you see capcity/range drop off in higher assist levels.
What you actually feel is the extra motor hub weight vs a normal light weight bike hub. The weight being centred all at the hub gives the riding affect of drag which is an illusion.
On level ground I can peddle to 19mph.
Front kits are 250w rated .
LGF1L are 4.8a rated mediocre cells ok for low power with a 10 or 12a controller.
Should be ok with 15a controller if you don't go to fast unrestricted, probable decent usable life in legal mode 3 or 4 years. If used in unrestricted fast modet 18 months or so before you see capcity/range drop off in higher assist levels.
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If you have a dremel or similar cutter/grinder, cut the outer splines off the back of the sensor and it should then fit flush with the BB. If it is still a little tight, sand/grind a little material off the inside of the crank arm until the sensor moves freely with the arm refitted and tightened. 1 small cable tie on the chain stay will stop the outer part of the sensor moving. I've used this method on a couple of builds and it works a treat.
Any KT PAS should be ok - most of pages 8-13 of this thread should have a few links - have a look on topbikekit.com(best for julet) or pswpower.com or bmsbattery.com all these site have different prices and shipping cost I think there is a cheap one on banggood.com but if its like mine it may b bi-directional and I don't think it say KT and its not julet. JUST read stuff carefully and magnify the pics to make sure its KT and some could be left hand side operational or right hand side.
Hightechpete ordered one (RHS) from topbike I am waiting on his thoughts! Page 10-12 should have the link he used it could be on my post
I ended up even with a wider bottom bracket, but I removed the back of the sensor (small single screw), then pushed on the wheel with the metal round dots onto the bottom bracket, then fitted the other half ( with the cab;e) and ran a bit of gaffer tape around the whole thing. Not pretty but works fineIf you have a dremel or similar cutter/grinder, cut the outer splines off the back of the sensor and it should then fit flush with the BB. If it is still a little tight, sand/grind a little material off the inside of the crank arm until the sensor moves freely with the arm refitted and tightened. 1 small cable tie on the chain stay will stop the outer part of the sensor moving. I've used this method on a couple of builds and it works a treat.
I can say the 250w front has limited torque and I found as a shopping bike it was fine 10-15 miles a day, slow runs out on a sunny no wind day and its fine, however when it comes to hills and head wind it lacks that little extra and you will find that you will have to put some effect in, mine cuts out smack on 15.4mph which saves battery I suppose - but I was used to the extra power of the 350w kit and its hard to go back to 250w - if you have ridden a 350w or a high torque ebike before then I would go for the 350w even if you haven't the 350w can be limited to 15mph via a simple fairly easy access menu on the LCD3 then if you do decide you want the extra speed its there ready to go.
I got this kit a few months back and am quite happy with it but i've got a bit of a custom battery solution i've been using a pc power supply connector for the rack mounted battery i got.
I chose this so i could keep it physically disconnected when not in use. Unsure how safe it is to keep these plugged in 24/7?
Anyway im now thinking to replace this setup with a switch i found from an old vacuum cleaner. It's quite a big metal one rated for 10a ac. What do you think? I'll make sure to solder and waterproof everything.
I chose this so i could keep it physically disconnected when not in use. Unsure how safe it is to keep these plugged in 24/7?
Anyway im now thinking to replace this setup with a switch i found from an old vacuum cleaner. It's quite a big metal one rated for 10a ac. What do you think? I'll make sure to solder and waterproof everything.
Battery power needs to be isolated as controllers can drain cells as often they can draw milliamps even though they are not working.
Erm I take my battery off the rack when not in use and make sure the off switch is OFF - never had a problem yet
Does this happen when the on case power switch is off?? surely not
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