What cable required

[billyboya]

Re attach the freewheel leaving enough room for the legs of the puller to go under it. You can't put the puller legs on the outside of the casing, it will either bend or break. TBH, I can't see how it's gonna help removing the cover as the cable exits behind that rivetted steel plate.

Edit.
Looking again at photo, I'm not sure you can strip this down any further. I think maybe the outer casing and the steel inner plate are held together by those rivets. Have a peek through the cut outs in the plate and see whats behind the rivets.

I have checked behind the rivets and there isn’t anything but can see the wires now when I shine a torch behind inside case. So will case come off then if I replace freewheel then use gear puller to get case off

EDIT: Well I’ve attached the freewheel and now using gear puller and it does seem to be coming off well slowly as I can see it’s moved so will try a bit more tomoz but slowly

 

[wheeliepete]

I have checked behind the rivets and there isn’t anything but can see the wires now when I shine a torch behind inside case. So will case come off then if I replace freewheel then use gear puller to get case off

TBH I have no idea, not worked on a motor like this one. If you have watched the video of cable replacement, you can see that you need good access to the axle where the cable enters the motor on the inside and I can't see removing the outer casing is not going to give you this.

 

[billyboya]

TBH I have no idea, not worked on a motor like this one. If you have watched the video of cable replacement, you can see that you need good access to the axle where the cable enters the motor on the inside and I can't see removing the outer casing is not going to give you this.

Well by removing case it will give me more access to the wires and where they go

well case has come off ok and now can see the sensor and phase wires

 

[Jodel]

If you do try to pull a new cable through, then something like this might help:

Ideal Yellow 77 Wire & Cable Pulling Lubricant 950ml - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. General purpose cable lubricant reduces friction in electrical and communication cable pulling operations. Speeds-up installation and reduces risk of cable damage. Wax-based formula provides lubrication and clings to cable throughout long pulls. Dries to a thin...

www.screwfix.com

 

[billyboya]

If you do try to pull a new cable through, then something like this might help:

Ideal Yellow 77 Wire & Cable Pulling Lubricant 950ml - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. General purpose cable lubricant reduces friction in electrical and communication cable pulling operations. Speeds-up installation and reduces risk of cable damage. Wax-based formula provides lubrication and clings to cable throughout long pulls. Dries to a thin...

www.screwfix.com

Yes may try that or like Nealh said butter from fridge lol but god knows how I’m going to thread 8 wired or 9 cable through the axle as it seems it goes through side of axle and out through top but I can see a clip at bottom of axle so maybe that will remove that end of axle not sure yet also not sure if sensors need replacing I think they ok

Or this even cheaper

3M Wire Pulling Lubricant, LUB-I 0.2l : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

3M Wire Pulling Lubricant, LUB-I 0.2l : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[Nealh]

Like the grin video, clip some of the inner wires short leaving the outer sheath a little long and cut like he has done to wrap it in on it self so the end is to more of a conical point. Tape as he has done so and pull thru with a bit of lubrication. The way he has done is so as not to be tugging directly on the 9 inner wires but on the outer sheathing as a whole. The use of the spread/butter will aide slipperiness esp if done so on the outer sheath and in the axle hollow.

 

[billyboya]

Like the grin video, clip some of the inner wires short leaving the outer sheath a little long and cut like he has done to wrap it in on it self so the end is to more of a conical point. Tape as he has done so and pull thru with a bit of lubrication. The way he has done is so as not to be tugging directly on the 9 inner wires but on the outer sheathing as a whole. The use of the spread/butter will aide slipperiness esp if done so on the outer sheath and in the axle hollow.

Yes I will tape the end of cable to a cone shape to thread new cable through. But my motor is much different to in that Grin Video. as it has a cut out in side of axle, which comes out opp end of axle near motor through a hole, as you can see in pics below. I have now also sorted out wires and it seems to me the 3 I have circled in a yellow ring, wasn't attached to anything. unless it was to do with that extra cable added which I said wasn't attached to nothing either at the controller end. But that White thick wire marked with a yellow cross inside circle was fused to the red wire above it.

I have now ordered a new cable. But I also want to change the power IEC plug and lead what battery plugs into. it has to be a male deans plug 1 end and a ring terminal other end. so the male deans plugs into battery female deans plug as shown below, what size cable will I need is it just a normal size. say about 40CM long

 

[Nealh]

The thing is will this motor ever work again ?
The odd wires pointed out I would remove they shouldn't be there.
Whilst at this stage check out the halls again, if need be change them as they are only a £1 each. If you don't see 5v on change them, put a 5v phone charger on the thin Red and Black and then check again Gnd against Hall a, b & c.

 

[billyboya]

The thing is will this motor ever work again ?
The odd wires pointed out I would remove they shouldn't be there.
Whilst at this stage check out the halls again, if need be change them as they are only a £1 each. If you don't see 5v on change them, put a 5v phone charger on the thin Red and Black and then check again Gnd against Hall a, b & c.

Will the meter read those hall wires if not plugged into anything. I do have a test meter do I just place it on 200V DC or is that 20v DC and you say as Im not clear yet on what you mean

in image below do you mean 1 to 1 touch the 1 to red and black probe to black minus

then red probe to 1 and black to a b c wires or do you mean black to A minus B minus C minus

How do you mean a 5v phone charger I have an iphone 11 but Im lost what do you touch end of phone charger with

 

[Nealh]

The Halls I assume use a 5v rail as pedelecs do and the erider 15 is sold as a pedelec.
Most phone chargers are 5v so they are ideal but one has to use an old one no longer used and cut the charge jack off, then once the polarity is checked wire it to the hall Gnd/#2 & 5v/#1.
The Halls are 5v as they take a common 5v track from 5v/#1.
So probe using the 20v dc setting, test Gnd/#1 against a, b & c.
Black probe always on Gnd but tb it doesn't matter when using the meter.

 

[billyboya]

The Halls I assume use a 5v rail as pedelecs do and the erider 15 is sold as a pedelec.
Most phone chargers are 5v so they are ideal but one has to use an old one no longer used and cut the charge jack off, then once the polarity is checked wire it to the hall Gnd/#2 & 5v/#1.
The Halls are 5v as they take a common 5v track from 5v/#1.
So probe using the 20v dc setting, test Gnd/#1 against a, b & c.
Black probe always on Gnd but tb it doesn't matter when using the meter.

Do you actually mean a mobile phone lead like usb 1 end and micro usb other end like below, the just cut micro end off. as I have plenty leads like that to use.

most mobiles use a usb lead anyway

Im sorry But I dont understand all this can you explain

then once the polarity is checked wire it to the hall Gnd/#2 & 5v/#1.
The Halls are 5v as they take a common 5v track from 5v/#1.
So probe using the 20v dc setting, test Gnd/#1 against a, b & c.

 

[Nealh]

No I talk of the 240v to 5vdc/300/500ma chargers.

 

[billyboya]

No I talk of the 240v to 5vdc/300/500ma chargers.

Well its no good as I only use a iphone lead plugged into a socket via a USB to micro usb it has 4 wires cant I just cut off the micro and use red and black wire

No I talk of the 240v to 5vdc/300/500ma chargers.

Well then I'm a bit stuck as don't have one of those. so how can you tell then if its 5v what you testing. as don't you have to use a meter. as you say a old phone charger . or am I wrong here probably am I'm sure in the past I did test the sensors. and all was 5v etc as I can remember moving the wheel slowly. so you think I should cut those 3 red wires what wasn't attached to anything. when new cable arrives I will solder each hall sensor wires to cable and shrink wrap them plus also all 5 shrink wrapped too and same with the 3 phase wires shrink wrap each 1 then all 3 after

 

[matthewslack]

Well its no good as I only use a iphone lead plugged into a socket via a USB to micro usb it has 4 wires cant I just cut off the micro and use red and black wire


Well then I'm a bit stuck as don't have one of those. so how can you tell then if its 5v what you testing. as don't you have to use a meter. as you say a old phone charger . or am I wrong here probably am I'm sure in the past I did test the sensors. and all was 5v etc as I can remember moving the wheel slowly. so you think I should cut those 3 red wires what wasn't attached to anything. when new cable arrives I will solder each hall sensor wires to cable and shrink wrap them plus also all 5 shrink wrapped too and same with the 3 phase wires shrink wrap each 1 then all 3 after

A USB lead plugged into a charger wall block or a laptop usb port will do fine. Just chop off the other end and cut back the outer insulation and you will find at least two small wires (2 if it is a power only usb cable and 4 if data as well). The ones I have used have always had 5v as red and black as ground.

So strip the ends and check with your meter that you have 5v when plugged in. When you connect this to your hall sensor wiring red and black, it is supplying power to the hall sensors. On the voltage range, the meter measures, it does not supply. So you need this power supply so that you can measure what happens at the hall sensor wires. If there is no power supply, there is nothing for the meter to measure.

So connect the usb red and black to the hall sensor red and black, and then measure the voltage between black and each of the coloured hall sensor wires.

 

[billyboya]

A USB lead plugged into a charger wall block or a laptop usb port will do fine. Just chop off the other end and cut back the outer insulation and you will find at least two small wires (2 if it is a power only usb cable and 4 if data as well). The ones I have used have always had 5v as red and black as ground.

So strip the ends and check with your meter that you have 5v when plugged in. When you connect this to your hall sensor wiring red and black, it is supplying power to the hall sensors. On the voltage range, the meter measures, it does not supply. So you need this power supply so that you can measure what happens at the hall sensor wires. If there is no power supply, there is nothing for the meter to measure.

So connect the usb red and black to the hall sensor red and black, and then measure the voltage between black and each of the coloured hall sensor wires.

ok I am with you now. So join the red lead to red wire and black lead to black wire from the usb lead. Then touch red wire and black with meter probes set at 20v. Dc Then you say just leave black wire on black lead ground and touch each colours in turn ok will try that later

ok I think I’ve did it right I joined usb red and black wires to red and black wires on sensors. It measured 5.15v. Then I kept red wire from usb on red sensor wire and touched each coloured wire in turn all measured same 5.15 V I set meter to 20V. DC

 

[matthewslack]

ok I am with you now. So join the red lead to red wire and black lead to black wire from the usb lead. Then touch red wire and black with meter probes set at 20v. Dc Then you say just leave black wire on black lead ground and touch each colours in turn ok will try that later

That's it - just check the 5v from the usb first.

 

[billyboya]

That's it - just check the 5v from the usb first.

But if I hold probe on black wire only then touch each colour in turn nothing happens so surely it’s probe on red wire then touch each as that registered ok all 5.15V.

 

[matthewslack]

ok I am with you now. So join the red lead to red wire and black lead to black wire from the usb lead. Then touch red wire and black with meter probes set at 20v. Dc Then you say just leave black wire on black lead ground and touch each colours in turn ok will try that later

ok I think I’ve did it right I joined usb red and black wires to red and black wires on sensors. It measured 5.15v. Then I kept red wire from usb on red sensor wire and touched each coloured wire in turn all measured same 5.15 V I set meter to 20V. DC

Another thing to check - those additional thick wires in your img1720.jpg are I think quite important. I think hub motors are WYE or Star wound, rather than Delta. So I think those are the other ends of the phase windings, and should be connected all three together. Without that connection, the motor won't run.

Nothing else connects to there, just the three big wires, and then they need to be insulated and somehow made secure out of the way of moving parts.

In the picture your yellow labels show a green, a grey and a covered in red sheath cable. Each of those is the other end of the green, yellow and blue phase wires. So if you use the resistance scale (any one, the readings will be close to zero) of the meter, you should be able to measure a very low resistance between each of the phase wires and one of the those extras.

If I have got this right, then those three wires need soldering together with a good big joint, and then you ought to have a working motor.

 

[matthewslack]

But if I hold probe on black wire only then touch each colour in turn nothing happens so surely it’s probe on red wire then touch each as that registered ok all 5.15V.

Have you got a small magnet? If you put a magnet close to the hall sensor it will switch, so if red to the hall sensor output lead is 5v with no magnet it should become 0v with the magnet there.

 

[matthewslack]

Another thing to check - those additional thick wires in your img1720.jpg are I think quite important. I think hub motors are WYE or Star wound, rather than Delta. So I think those are the other ends of the phase windings, and should be connected all three together. Without that connection, the motor won't run.

Nothing else connects to there, just the three big wires, and then they need to be insulated and somehow made secure out of the way of moving parts.

In the picture your yellow labels show a green, a grey and a covered in red sheath cable. Each of those is the other end of the green, yellow and blue phase wires. So if you use the resistance scale (any one, the readings will be close to zero) of the meter, you should be able to measure a very low resistance between each of the phase wires and one of the those extras.

If I have got this right, then those three wires need soldering together with a good big joint, and then you ought to have a working motor.

Heres a picture. Inside the white insulation on the red arrow are the three ends of the phase windings. Yours are exposed and not all together.