D
Deleted member 4366
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I think they've changed the PAS sensor now from the one you had. The new one is a magnet disc and a tie-on sensor, which is even easier to fit than yours.
D
Deleted member 4366
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Just the 12mm V2 torque arm from Cyclezee.Thankyou d8veh, one last question do you know if I will need to buy anything extra to get it all running smoothly and fitted onto my bike? we have bike tools and everything I just don't want to buy it and then end up needing to replace the forks or something
I am noticing some odd behavior in how the power is delivered in the first 5-10 minutes of starting a ride on the Oxydrive 13A kit.
The power delivery is very nonlinear - the motor kicks in for short bursts taking the bike to random speeds before cutting out again. For example it will be on up to 13mph for a second then stop for a second then again to 16mph then drop again to 15 then 13 again and on and on.
Once past this period the power delivery becomes predictable for the PAS setting. For example if the max speed is set to 16mph the motor will start pushing up to 16mph then stops once past this speed and starts again if the speed drops below 16mph.
Do they all do this? Could my sensor be misaligned? If it was misaligned why would it fix itself after the first 5-10 minutes?
The power delivery is very nonlinear - the motor kicks in for short bursts taking the bike to random speeds before cutting out again. For example it will be on up to 13mph for a second then stop for a second then again to 16mph then drop again to 15 then 13 again and on and on.
Once past this period the power delivery becomes predictable for the PAS setting. For example if the max speed is set to 16mph the motor will start pushing up to 16mph then stops once past this speed and starts again if the speed drops below 16mph.
Do they all do this? Could my sensor be misaligned? If it was misaligned why would it fix itself after the first 5-10 minutes?
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I had something like this at the start - in my case it was my installation of the cut out break lever(I put it on the handlebars as an emergency way to cut power in addition to two combination gear change/brake levers) - it was too horizontal so on inclines it would partially close and cut power to the motor. are you sure this isn't happening?
I didn't connect the brake levers - the cables on the LCD for the brake sensors are hanging loose.
that rules that out, in my (fairly amateur) way the next port of call would be the PAS - it needs to be close, but not touch, though I would go through all the connections as anotherkiwi suggest as well, the power delivery should be linear without interruption within the speed range so this is definitely not normal, and it must have something to do with a weak link in the system
D
Deleted member 4366
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Not insulated yet. Going with the bad connection idea I pushed all the connectors in before my ride this evening and no more jerky power delivery. Fingers crossed it is fixed.
Alright all!
Just joined having been unable to refuse the current deal on the Oxydrive 11ah kit (£450+£15 delivery) which will be going onto my modded Specialized Hardrock MTB. I found this forum whilst googling, have read this thread from start to finish and it's been very helpful indeed. It does appear that OD have changed some of the kit components over the years which leads onto my first question - has anyone fitted the current supplied PAS to an XT Hollowtech crank? I really want to try and get it on the drive side to keep things as neat as possible (part of the reason for going with an OD kit in the first place) so I would be keen to hear from anyone who has done this. I don't mind modding bits and pieces (I built a Lamborghini Diablo replica for my sins!) and would also like to rig my XT hydraulic combined brakes/shifters up to accept the brake cutoffs so again any info on this would be good. In any event I will update this thread with my fitment to share my findings.
Kit was sent out today so thanks to Andrew at OD. Really looking forward to getting this on, couldn't believe I just happened to come across the deal and even better was that it accepted 9 speed cassettes which I struggled to find whilst searching - most went up to 7 or 8. The fact it came with a black rim/spokes/motor and a white battery was awesome as it's exactly what I was after to match the front wheel and white frame! Should be quite a stealthy/factory looking install and I can even keep my 203mm discs given the 6 bolt motor hub. Apart from working around the PAS and brake cutoffs it will feel like this kit was custom made for my bike!
Anyway, thanks again for creating this awesome forum and I hope to speak to you guys again very soon
Just joined having been unable to refuse the current deal on the Oxydrive 11ah kit (£450+£15 delivery) which will be going onto my modded Specialized Hardrock MTB. I found this forum whilst googling, have read this thread from start to finish and it's been very helpful indeed. It does appear that OD have changed some of the kit components over the years which leads onto my first question - has anyone fitted the current supplied PAS to an XT Hollowtech crank? I really want to try and get it on the drive side to keep things as neat as possible (part of the reason for going with an OD kit in the first place) so I would be keen to hear from anyone who has done this. I don't mind modding bits and pieces (I built a Lamborghini Diablo replica for my sins!) and would also like to rig my XT hydraulic combined brakes/shifters up to accept the brake cutoffs so again any info on this would be good. In any event I will update this thread with my fitment to share my findings.
Kit was sent out today so thanks to Andrew at OD. Really looking forward to getting this on, couldn't believe I just happened to come across the deal and even better was that it accepted 9 speed cassettes which I struggled to find whilst searching - most went up to 7 or 8. The fact it came with a black rim/spokes/motor and a white battery was awesome as it's exactly what I was after to match the front wheel and white frame! Should be quite a stealthy/factory looking install and I can even keep my 203mm discs given the 6 bolt motor hub. Apart from working around the PAS and brake cutoffs it will feel like this kit was custom made for my bike!
Anyway, thanks again for creating this awesome forum and I hope to speak to you guys again very soon
Let us know how you get on with the install, I'm going to buy the same kit but have to hang on for a few more days, then it will be pay day, I just hope the kit will still be on offer
Steve
Steve
Yea it says Sunday 30th of June and it's Tuesday 30th today so not sure what date it will end.
And this is the bike I want to convert.
And this is the bike I want to convert.
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I fitted pas ring to my Truvative Noir crank set with Sram GXP bb, you will have to loose the very small chain ring held on with allen bolts?
My big bear kit on my 700c pas ring is fixed to my Deore LX Hollowtech 11 crank again the small chain ring was removed. I carefully position the magnet ring in position on the small removed chain ring to align /centralise and mark the four allen fixing holes and drill these out, I then screwed(4 screws) the magnet ring to a block of wood to keep it steady and used a hole saw to very carefully drill out the ring center wihich misses the magnets by about 5mm and just misses the allen fixings by bout 1-1.5 mm then just bolt it on in place of the small ring. Job done neat fixing and location can hardly be seen.
For the brakes you have to ruin the supplied levers and machine out the sensor and wiring, I managed it with a dremmel type of tool. A magnet correctly postioned to the sensor works fine but you will have to experiment for positioning before final gluing/fixing in place.
My big bear kit on my 700c pas ring is fixed to my Deore LX Hollowtech 11 crank again the small chain ring was removed. I carefully position the magnet ring in position on the small removed chain ring to align /centralise and mark the four allen fixing holes and drill these out, I then screwed(4 screws) the magnet ring to a block of wood to keep it steady and used a hole saw to very carefully drill out the ring center wihich misses the magnets by about 5mm and just misses the allen fixings by bout 1-1.5 mm then just bolt it on in place of the small ring. Job done neat fixing and location can hardly be seen.
For the brakes you have to ruin the supplied levers and machine out the sensor and wiring, I managed it with a dremmel type of tool. A magnet correctly postioned to the sensor works fine but you will have to experiment for positioning before final gluing/fixing in place.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
The new pedal sensor should fit OK because the actual sensor clips to the frame rather than the BB. This is assuming that your BB is 68mm. A 73mm one is a bit tight. The magnet ring will need to be clipped together, then drilled out to 25mm. You will have to take your LH BB bearing off to remove the spacer behind it, which will give the extra width for the magnet disc. You can then fit the magnet disc on the left side.
Just had a email back from Andrew at oxydrive and the offer ends tonight at 11pm.
Just put my order in for the cst 11ah.
Will let you all know how I get on, and I'm sure I may need a bit of help
Steve
Just put my order in for the cst 11ah.
Will let you all know how I get on, and I'm sure I may need a bit of help
Steve
Thanks guys good info although I should have made myself a clearer. I was referring to the magnet ring not the sensor (which can be made to point anywhere really). I really dont want to sacrifice the small chainring so that option would be a last resort. I have seen somewhere (cant find it now) a nice solution which involved inserting magnets into the chainring bolts thus removing the need for a separate disc altogether. Do we know how many pulses the OD kit likes to see per crank revolution? If its more than 4 we could be stuck with that idea. Alternatively, I would be thinking of doing something like this:
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