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Well at the moment the bike is a rockrider 8.1 but I think that will change sooner or later...
Anyway... my backpack plan .I still fancy plugging wires between the two connectors but I 'm thinking it may be simpler to put the controller and battery in a backpack and simply extend the motor/PAS and display cables.
I would still like to know about my battery / controller connector . From what I see online most connections from battery to controller are just POS and NEG , what might the four thinner connections be on mine.?
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Deleted member 4366
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I don't think that's a good idea. I can't understand what your problem is. I've fitted several bottle batteries to frames like that. For extra security, you can add an extra 5mm rivnut if you want, which I'm sure will be enough. If it still worries you, you can make a saddle out of GRP like this one, which was to get it clear of the hinge. All you need is a flat saddle to stop it rocking:
D8veh thankyou for your time...yes I could do that and it seems I will probably eventually do so..
but I still fancy a backpack and would like to know what are the reasons you dont think that is a good idea?
but I still fancy a backpack and would like to know what are the reasons you dont think that is a good idea?
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Deleted member 4366
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It's not very vonvenient yo carry a battery in a backpack. It's really awkward to join connect and disconnect it, and the weight gets to you after a bit.
You have to think about the warranty issues too. You'll have to frill a hole in the battery and controller to run your wires externally.
Finally, there's the safety aspect. I reckon I fall off my bike about once every 2000 miles on average. That's once or twice a year.. what eould happen to uour battery wires in that situation would be anybody's guess..
I've run with lipos in my pocket during test rides, but I wouldn't want to do that every day.
Why are you so keen to use a backpack?
You have to think about the warranty issues too. You'll have to frill a hole in the battery and controller to run your wires externally.
Finally, there's the safety aspect. I reckon I fall off my bike about once every 2000 miles on average. That's once or twice a year.. what eould happen to uour battery wires in that situation would be anybody's guess..
I've run with lipos in my pocket during test rides, but I wouldn't want to do that every day.
Why are you so keen to use a backpack?
I've done it. The upside of a backpack battery is off road handling. Because you have control of the battery weight with your body.
If you are going to do it, you need to leave the controller on the bike, and move battery into backpack.
Anderson power pole (two pins) are easy to connect up, and will come apart if you have a spill or forget to disconnect.
I protected my battery to a degree with foam and bubble wrap, but I accept there's a risk.
If you are going to do it, you need to leave the controller on the bike, and move battery into backpack.
Anderson power pole (two pins) are easy to connect up, and will come apart if you have a spill or forget to disconnect.
I protected my battery to a degree with foam and bubble wrap, but I accept there's a risk.
Hi there everyone!
I'm looking to convert my Karakum into a beautiful electric power machine!
I heard OXYDrive make the best conversion kits in the world. I'm full of questions:
Could a kit work well with my Dawes Karakum? Would it be a big mistake getting one? downers uppers??
and I look forward to hearing from you!
Patrick
I'm looking to convert my Karakum into a beautiful electric power machine!
I heard OXYDrive make the best conversion kits in the world. I'm full of questions:
Could a kit work well with my Dawes Karakum? Would it be a big mistake getting one? downers uppers??
and I look forward to hearing from you!
Patrick
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Deleted member 4366
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I'm not sure that they're the best kits in the world, but they're certainly very good. There's a few different versions. The ones that suit your bike woild be these two:
The 13Ah CST one has the big cassette motor, which is the fastest. It adds about 8.kg to your bike. This is the same electrical stuff as what's fitted to the Oxygen Emate MTB, which is my favourite OEM electric MTB. On your bike, derestricted, it would reach 25mph in favourable conditions. Pedalling at speeds over 20 mph is easy.
The 11Ah one has the slightly slower middle-sized cassette motor. This motor is new, so I don't know how much torque it gives. I would guess the same. It weighs about 1 kg less. Obviously, range will be 11/13ths of the 13Ah kit. It's top soeed is about 22 mph.
Both of them are well suited to your bike. They're also very straight-forward to fit now that they have the new pedal sensor (different to what's shown in the listing). Most rear motors have freewheel gears, so you can't keep your 9-speed gears, but the Oxydrive has cassette motors, so you can keep your gears as they are.
I see that the 11Ah kit is back on offer at £450. That does make it the best kit in the world! Get it while you can.
The 13Ah CST one has the big cassette motor, which is the fastest. It adds about 8.kg to your bike. This is the same electrical stuff as what's fitted to the Oxygen Emate MTB, which is my favourite OEM electric MTB. On your bike, derestricted, it would reach 25mph in favourable conditions. Pedalling at speeds over 20 mph is easy.
The 11Ah one has the slightly slower middle-sized cassette motor. This motor is new, so I don't know how much torque it gives. I would guess the same. It weighs about 1 kg less. Obviously, range will be 11/13ths of the 13Ah kit. It's top soeed is about 22 mph.
Both of them are well suited to your bike. They're also very straight-forward to fit now that they have the new pedal sensor (different to what's shown in the listing). Most rear motors have freewheel gears, so you can't keep your 9-speed gears, but the Oxydrive has cassette motors, so you can keep your gears as they are.
I see that the 11Ah kit is back on offer at £450. That does make it the best kit in the world! Get it while you can.
Thanks for the reply d8veh! some more questions is the oxydrive fully waterproof and durable? and does level one output make up for the extra weight and provide extra ummphh? and . . . im looking to buy some new tyres. what do you think of these? I saw that you got a couple of punctures with the marathon plus tyres. would you buy them again??
buy http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schwalbe-Marathon-Commuting-Touring-Leisure-Road-Bike-Tyre-/231227184348?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item35d636d4dc
buy http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schwalbe-Marathon-Commuting-Touring-Leisure-Road-Bike-Tyre-/231227184348?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item35d636d4dc
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Deleted member 4366
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No electric bike or kit is fully waterproof. The Oxydrive kit is better than most. It has waterproof connectors and a sealed controller. I've never had a reason to look inside the battery, but I would guess that it's pretty well protected. All the sensors are waterproof except maybe the throttle, which you don't need to fit if it worries you. I've personally never had the problem of water in my throttle, even though I've used it in heavy rain a few times, but other people have had it - mainly when they leave their bike out in the rain rather than riding it in the rain.
When my friend uses his 13Ah Oxydrive, he switches down to no power for normal riding. He only uses the power for hills. His bike will come freewheeling past mine on a slight downhill, while I'm pedalling moderately hard. There's no resistance from the motor. The only thing you might be able to feel is the extra weight.
If you want puncture resistance, Marathon Plus or Energizer tyres are about the best. Next time I will try a different brand that wears out more quickly, but gives more grip.
When my friend uses his 13Ah Oxydrive, he switches down to no power for normal riding. He only uses the power for hills. His bike will come freewheeling past mine on a slight downhill, while I'm pedalling moderately hard. There's no resistance from the motor. The only thing you might be able to feel is the extra weight.
If you want puncture resistance, Marathon Plus or Energizer tyres are about the best. Next time I will try a different brand that wears out more quickly, but gives more grip.
At £450 + £30 postage it is 9€ cheaper than the Ciclotek kit I bought. Is it a sine wave controller? Couldn't find that info on their site.
Two things that make it the best kit:
PAS sensor - the best one I have seen, is it compatible with the Mxus or just the Bafang? Where can I buy one like that?
Controller in battery - less wires all over the frame.
Two things that make it the best kit:
PAS sensor - the best one I have seen, is it compatible with the Mxus or just the Bafang? Where can I buy one like that?
Controller in battery - less wires all over the frame.
why don't you see more of these on the road? there must be some downfalls. are they likely to last at least 5 years? how much energy is it using per charge compared with say a toaster or boiling a kettle?
I would want to feel like I can take it out whatever the weather and not be risking breaking it. As it's not watertight why doesn't it come with a rain jacket?
Does anyone know if this HDB sensor works with the Oxydrive 13Ah kit?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181778147435
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181778147435
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Deleted member 4366
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Your link doesn't work for me. I'm guessing it's for BBS01.
I'm not sure, but I think the BBS01 ones are active 3-wire, while as Oxydrive are passive 2-wire.
I'm not sure, but I think the BBS01 ones are active 3-wire, while as Oxydrive are passive 2-wire.
Thankyou d8veh, one last question do you know if I will need to buy anything extra to get it all running smoothly and fitted onto my bike? we have bike tools and everything I just don't want to buy it and then end up needing to replace the forks or something
dear all, apologies if this has been covered before: but is there a bottom bracket that definitely works with the small PAS sensor that goes on the non-drive side? I simply couldn't get it to fit on two BB's I used on the conversion I did - then I hacked the large PAS sensor that came with the kit - but this morning twice on the way to work power did not kick in as I peddled - unless I used the throttle, after which it returned to power as normal - and my hypothesis (work prevented any further exploring) is that my hacked PAS has rubbed (it did that before, the tolerances/space down there is too small for it) and that something is wearing thin. so, in a nutshell, if you know of a BB I can install that will definitely work with the small PAS sensor I'd be over the moon.
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