Oxydrive kits

  • Thread starter Deleted member 4366
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Deleted member 4366

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I wouldn't increase the controller's current much. There was a guy on ES that blew his S06S using it with a BPM. The S12S controller would be better, especially as it uses current control, so you only get maximum current on level 5.

Two batteries will give you twice the current. You should only connect them together if they're at approximately the same voltage, i.e. fully charged (and checked). You must disconnect one and charge them separately, otherwise one will charge the other through the discharge leads. It would be better to get a bigger single battery.

The speed of the motor is encoded in the marking. It should be marked something like 36V350WBPM 26(13). The 13 is the speed code, which can be anything from 8 to 16. If you tell me what it is, I'll tell you the speed.
 

1boris

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 10, 2013
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58
The prolem is that I ordered a 500w motor marked as a 250w.The supplier says it is a 500w motor with around 210 rpm.But the motor is marked 250w code 10.The no load speed is 39 kmh,but that is with about 42volt.At 36 volt it would be around 230 rpm in my calculations which would be code 13? which would explain the strong torque better.with full throttle and s09p controller the speed was around 29 kmh on the flat.But with s06s controller I could pedal hard to 35 kmh
Bafang BPM data.jpg
 
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Deleted member 4366

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A code 10 is 315 rpm at 36v, which is 39,9 km/h. It should go proportionally faster with a fully charged battery. Are you sure that there isn't a maximum speed set in each controller? I have it at the back of my mind that the S06S is set to 40km/h. I've never has a S09p, so I don't know what it's set to. You must check.

You won't know if it's definitely a 500w motor until you put 30A through it.
 

1boris

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 10, 2013
344
58
Ok,I used the same s09p controller with my 250w cst motor and it did 32-33 kph on the flat on throttle only.But I could pedal it faster.
 
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Deleted member 4366

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It's easy to look at the setting in the LCD. Then you know what it's set to.
 

1boris

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 10, 2013
344
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Another thing D8veh.I just read your review of the Focus Throne.How is hillclimbing compared to the Bosh performance? I assume you have tried one;)
 
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Deleted member 4366

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It was about the same. I'd have to try it on a much steeper hill to tell the difference. Gearing would probably make a difference too. You'd have to have the same gearing to get a true comparison.
 

1boris

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 10, 2013
344
58
yes,but not so easy to compare because of the small gear on the bosch.But I guess there is not a lot of difference.And maybe the Throne bike feels stronger because it does not require as much input as the Bocsh.
I have the performance(badass dongle)Very nice bike.extremely fast anywhere if you put in a lot of effort/cadence.But it was an impuls buy.And I regret it.
I like the Xiongda and the Bpm much better.
 

Staffordshirehills

Pedelecer
Aug 28, 2014
88
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55
Well, after getting the electrics up and running some time ago but then having the "knobbly" feel to the front wheel (front wheel kit), I've returned to the project now the weather is a little warmer. I have to say, I'm stumped. The wheel definitely has a click / knobble - a bit like a seconds finger on a clock. Has anyone experienced this or got any ideas? Thanks.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,987
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West Sx RH
My rear cst is working fine.
All I can suggest is you carefully re check your conversion.
  • Lift the wheel off the ground and run the motor and check all is well with no stuttering.
  • The hub is sitting in the drop outs correctly with anti rotation washers fitted dremelled in correctly, not loose.
  • Hub/ wheel securely tightened .
  • Or may be a change of tyre to see if that makes a difference.
  • Spoke all tight not loose.
 
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Staffordshirehills

Pedelecer
Aug 28, 2014
88
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Thanks Nealh,

Not the tyre or brakes catching.
Taken the wheel off and held the spindle, the motor seems smooth .
Put the wheel back and it seems to fit drops outs well so wonder whether the anti rotation washers could be an issue?
I don't know what else to do.
 
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Deleted member 4366

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Where are you located. If it's not too far from me, I might be able to have a look.
 
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Deleted member 4366

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No.

I was really hoping for a bit more precision than N. Staffs.
 

Swytch Bike

Trade Member
Sep 10, 2014
154
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Ian it has already been mentioned you will need the 10 x12 arms for the cst, also you probably will have to do a little filing of the drop outs to accept the new axle as your existing one may only be 9mm and not deep enough.
FYI as an alternative to filing the dropouts, on 250W oxydrive kits you can use a TORQ Lock to immobilise the wheel nut (you need to have M5 eyelets to screw into). Simply make sure the wheel nut is well tightened and this will keep the axle from spinning out. It has the added benefit of additional security against theft :)

How to fit video:
 
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morsmana

Pedelecer
Jan 12, 2015
40
3
63
Are you positive the outside edge of the motor isn't fouling the inside of the fork - it did on mine and I got a very similar effect. Also is the orientation of the lock washer correct - the tab on mine was like yours is, and on checking the install notes it needed to be at the base of the cut out at the base of the forks. I ended up using a small diameter washer to push the forks out a couple of mm to give me the clearance I needed.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,987
8,572
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West Sx RH
From your pics the anti - rotational washers aren't fitted correctly the tab should be facing upwards, this involves some work on the inside of the fork drop out with a dremmel or similar tool so that it sits and seats nicely. That's why there is nobbly feel because the wheel is jumping/ trying to come out of the drop out due to the torque/rotational force also you may want to fit a torque arm on the disc side if you have one.

In my pic you will see my rear mech hanger, I have dremelled out for the lug.
Conveniently the hanger is about the same thickness as the depth of the lug so this was easily done removed from the bike the disc side is done in situ.
 

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