KU63 controller circuit board connections

[Deleted member 4366]

It must be getting the speed signal from a motor hall sensor then. It was worth trying, but it looks like that's as far as you can go with that controller. Thanks for your efforts. At least we learnt what doesn't work. I'm sorry it's a fail. Your only chance now is a new controller that doesn't have a speed restriction.

 

[LaurentDehaeck]

Damm it can you look at the picture did i **** ly controller bord ? Everything still works except when i peddal motor doesnt go on ?? All other electronics work !

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That looks like the main capacitor. The photo is not clear enough to show what's going on. Did you short it out? It could be still OK. It looks like one leg is no longer soldered. A better photo would help.

 

[LaurentDehaeck]

That looks like the main capacitor. The photo is not clear enough to show what's going on. Did you short it out? It could be still OK. It looks like one leg is no longer soldered. A better photo would help.

Yes indeed ingotnfrustrated this morning and before talking to you based on another person suggestion i had a paper clip connected as bridge and i did give me 3 km more speed and after the dissapointment that we got stuck i wanted to connect that bridge again but solder with wire and yes i guess i melted the thin on the plate becaude after i posted you the picture it worked again but it had trouble to go faster but it went a bit ... I m so depressed stupid i am

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It'll probably be OK if you resolder it.

 

[LaurentDehaeck]

It'll probably be OK if you resolder it.

I tried to clean it up as much as possible .... Does this look good to you ?

 

[LaurentDehaeck]

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You must not replace the shunt with a paper clip. The shunt controls the current that the controller allows. If you bridge the onnection, here will be no limit, so the controller will overheat. It can also damage your motor.

The controller gives about 15 amps. The idea is to reduce the resistance of the shunt by 25% to increase the current by 25%, which gives 25% more torque. It doesn't affect the top speed.

The above video seems to show a lot of solder already on your shunt. It looks like too much. Ideally, you should measure the maximum current before and after making changes to be sure that there is no danger of too much current, but you can be fairly accurate if you keep all your solder to one end of the shunt so that you can see the length with zero resistance.

That daughter board on your controller might be the module for sensoress operation. I can't see enough in the video to be sure.

A new controller doesn't cost much. If you get a new one with a LCD (about 70 Euros from BMSBattery), you will have no speed limit.

 

[LaurentDehaeck]

You must not replace the shunt with a paper clip. The shunt controls the current that the controller allows. If you bridge the onnection, here will be no limit, so the controller will overheat. It can also damage your motor.

The controller gives about 15 amps. The idea is to reduce the resistance of the shunt by 25% to increase the current by 25%, which gives 25% more torque. It doesn't affect the top speed.

The above video seems to show a lot of solder already on your shunt. It looks like too much. Ideally, you should measure the maximum current before and after making changes to be sure that there is no danger of too much current, but you can be fairly accurate if you keep all your solder to one end of the shunt so that you can see the length with zero resistance.

That daughter board on your controller might be the module for sensoress operation. I can't see enough in the video to be sure.

A new controller doesn't cost much. If you get a new one with a LCD (about 70 Euros from BMSBattery), you will have no speed limit.

 

[LaurentDehaeck]

http://www.tvplayvideos.com/1,BYMdcSWnbBo/automocion/Bafang-BBS-02-Advanced-Serial-Hacking-Throttle

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The red things are easy. They're capacitors. They're in all controllers.

I can see now that your shunt is not soldered. You can get more torque by adding solder to one side of it. Like this:



That daughter board is strange. The brown wire looks like it's connected to the battery positive. I can't see where the grey wire goes. Is it ground? Can you tell me the numbers on the two black resistors on it R2 and R3? Everything in your controller is strange. It's like somebody has modified it in a workshop. Even your LCD works differently. You said the yellow wire goes to the motor. Does that mean that your motor has three phase wires, five hall wires, the white wire and the yellow wire?

 

[LaurentDehaeck]

Hey could you confirm to me which controller and display i need to order PLEASE .... The mobile website sucks and i Dont want to make a mistake ....mine is brushless frontwheel and i am going to order in my dads office in annhour ..... As i hope to have it by friday .... I fried mine i think

 

[kexet]

There was a "PAS start" version of the KU63, which had a jumper wire on the back of the pcb. If you cut the jumper, it reverted to normal throttle operation. Yours doesn't have the jumper, so I guess you're pollacksed.

Hi!

Hello. I bought an ebike whit a broken PAS sensor in Sweden and now im trying to replace it whit a throttle. which was easier said then done.

The problem is that when I start up the system and turn the throttle nothing happens. but if i use the walk assist (hold the + button and it runs for 6km/h) and turn the throttle within 2 seconds everything works. I can go to full/mid speed. if i then let go of the throttle for more then 2 seconds it wont give more gas and i have to hit walk assist again to get the throttle back in action. If I connect calibr action (one white wire from GND to XX) the motors starts with full speed as son as I press power on the display and after a while the 2 second problem is back after that.

is there a way to fix this? or is this board designed not work properly with a throttle because its restrictions in Sweden? Do i have to rewire anything else?

I have tested the throttle and the motor. they work with another controller.

The controller might be a KU-65 and the bike is called off course