The reason that I couldn't see the 345kw or whatever it is on my bike when you first mentioned it is because the few times I rode the bike was down very rocky paths, and one of the rocks must have jumped up and chipped my paint exactly on the spot where that marking is. There are a few other chips around there too. If I go there again, I'll put a mudguard extension on it to stop that happening again.
£245 Argos Folder Improvements - complete story
- Thread starter saneagle
- Start date
ha ha ha ha - that might just qualify as 'conspiracy' to evade e-bike regulations and nanny state interference.
:}
That weight limit of 135kg seems good. I assume the front bit would say 'Total' so includes the weight of the ebike itself or is it just rider and luggage etc? I've forgotten how heavy this ebike is but I know its weighty which normally means strong and its steel which generally take more abuse and overloading.
As I recall, the bike weighed about 28 kilos when I picked it up and stood on a scale and then subtracted my own weight. It ain't no lightweight.
Then again, with a motor, that doesn't matter too much - to me at least.
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I have a notion to convert a second hand drop handlebar racing bike or gravel bike. I might use that Arrow cycles again to build the wheel and get the rear hub motor from topbikekit. I was looking and wanted one with aluminium frame , normal bottom bracket, 135mm rear dropouts with qr rear axle (the more expensive ones have thru axles). There's quite a lot with cable disc brakes, I thought I would convert to hydraulic, but hydraulic brakes for drop handlebars are ridiculously expensive, probably cost more than a second hand bike !2. Brakes
Cable disc brakes are always a bit meh. These ones are noisy as well, and the back caliper was wrongly positioned so that the pads were only about 60% on the disc. I replaced them with these cable hydraulic brakes from Aliexpress, which are a lot better. Not as good as ones with hydraulic levers - about half-way between, though I have to say that they're not fully run in, and the back brake is still not fully on the disc. They're a direct replacement, though you need to solve the positioning at the same time, which means using a lower adapter or grind about 3mm off the existing one. I haven't done that yet.
ZOOM XTECH HB100 MTB Hydraulic Disc Calipers Front and Rear Rotor G3 160/180MM MT200 M315 160mm Rotor Hydraulic Brakes for Bikes - AliExpress 18
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.comvi.aliexpress.com
View attachment 59801
View attachment 59802
I was thinking of maybe getting some of these ( the bikes I'm looking at have 160mm rotors)
ZOOM XTECH HB100 MTB Hydraulic Disc Calipers Front and Rear Rotor G3 160/180MM MT200 M315 160mm Rotor Hydraulic Brakes for Bikes - AliExpress 18
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
vi.aliexpress.com
Bike maybe something like https://www.facebook.com/share/1EwWXWd2mj/
oh - found this :
ZOOM HB-100: Upgrading cable-operated disc brakes to hydraulic calipers
I'm just wondering if anybody else here has tried upgrading their mechanical disc calipers to hydraulic and what your thoughts are? Are these ZOOM HB-100 hydraulic calipers a good compromise or waste of time? With these it's only the caliper that's hydraulic, so you don't have an oil reservoir...
www.pedelecs.co.uk
These possibly more suitable :
ONIRII BR-05 Cable Actuated Hydraulic Disc Brake For Road Cyclo-cross Gravel Center Lock Rotor CX Bike, CycloCross, 7 Colors New
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
vi.aliexpress.com
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They're probably all OK. I fitted two sets of the Aliexpress ones (link below) to my Argos bikes. The difference on the MTB is amazing. I'd say not far behind normal hydraulic brakes. I haven't used the folder enough to be sure of the difference, but I can immediately detect a step up in performance, and, of course, they're maintenance free apart from cable lubrication.I have a notion to convert a second hand drop handlebar racing bike or gravel bike. I might use that Arrow cycles again to build the wheel and get the rear hub motor from topbikekit. I was looking and wanted one with aluminium frame , normal bottom bracket, 135mm rear dropouts with qr rear axle (the more expensive ones have thru axles). There's quite a lot with cable disc brakes, I thought I would convert to hydraulic, but hydraulic brakes for drop handlebars are ridiculously expensive, probably cost more than a second hand bike !
I was thinking of maybe getting some of these ( the bikes I'm looking at have 160mm rotors)
ZOOM XTECH HB100 MTB Hydraulic Disc Calipers Front and Rear Rotor G3 160/180MM MT200 M315 160mm Rotor Hydraulic Brakes for Bikes - AliExpress 18
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
Bike maybe something like https://www.facebook.com/share/1EwWXWd2mj/
oh - found this :
ZOOM HB-100: Upgrading cable-operated disc brakes to hydraulic calipers
I'm just wondering if anybody else here has tried upgrading their mechanical disc calipers to hydraulic and what your thoughts are? Are these ZOOM HB-100 hydraulic calipers a good compromise or waste of time? With these it's only the caliper that's hydraulic, so you don't have an oil reservoir...
These possibly more suitable :
ONIRII BR-05 Cable Actuated Hydraulic Disc Brake For Road Cyclo-cross Gravel Center Lock Rotor CX Bike, CycloCross, 7 Colors New
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
The gold ones on the black MTB look really smart too.
In summary, I think these type of brakes would be good for you project. IIRC, the caliper adapters work directly with 160mm discs, though if you use your original adapters or mounts, they should fit directly, though I had to do a bit of adjustment with washers on the folder.
ZOOM XTECH HB100 MTB Hydraulic Disc Calipers Front and Rear Rotor G3 160/180MM MT200 M315 160mm Rotor Hydraulic Brakes for Bikes - AliExpress 18
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
vi.aliexpress.com
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As Saneagle said, the cable operated hydraulics are a big step up from the original cable operated brakes that came on the Argos folder. The brakes on mine as delivered were pretty dire - particularly the rear one, but I think a good part of the 'direness' of the original rear brake may have been to do with the way the cable is routed through the frame, and this results in a lot of bending and cable drag, which wastes hand energy when you operate it. Even with the hydraulic actuator, the new brakes (the same ones you propose to fit) the rear brake on the Argos folder is a bit compromised - but I think it is the same cable drag issue I mentioned.I have a notion to convert a second hand drop handlebar racing bike or gravel bike. I might use that Arrow cycles again to build the wheel and get the rear hub motor from topbikekit. I was looking and wanted one with aluminium frame , normal bottom bracket, 135mm rear dropouts with qr rear axle (the more expensive ones have thru axles). There's quite a lot with cable disc brakes, I thought I would convert to hydraulic, but hydraulic brakes for drop handlebars are ridiculously expensive, probably cost more than a second hand bike !
I was thinking of maybe getting some of these ( the bikes I'm looking at have 160mm rotors)
ZOOM XTECH HB100 MTB Hydraulic Disc Calipers Front and Rear Rotor G3 160/180MM MT200 M315 160mm Rotor Hydraulic Brakes for Bikes - AliExpress 18
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
Bike maybe something like https://www.facebook.com/share/1EwWXWd2mj/
oh - found this :
ZOOM HB-100: Upgrading cable-operated disc brakes to hydraulic calipers
I'm just wondering if anybody else here has tried upgrading their mechanical disc calipers to hydraulic and what your thoughts are? Are these ZOOM HB-100 hydraulic calipers a good compromise or waste of time? With these it's only the caliper that's hydraulic, so you don't have an oil reservoir...
These possibly more suitable :
ONIRII BR-05 Cable Actuated Hydraulic Disc Brake For Road Cyclo-cross Gravel Center Lock Rotor CX Bike, CycloCross, 7 Colors New
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
The original brake only really pushed on one pad and relies on some bending of the rotor disk to apply the other pad. In contrast - the hydraulic system applied both pads equally. Fitting them is a no-brainer. Saneagle pointed out the minor pitfalls of adjusting the fitting of the brake mechanism to maximise the amount of pad which presses on the disk. The new brakes come with washers and I had some spares on the old fully cable operated system that was removed. You can use these to adjust the height of the mechanism on the frame to match the pads to the rotor.
For the money - its a VERY good improvement.
My folder has past 600 miles riding and is going well. I note some minor range loss, but I think it is as likely due to colder weather than actual battery capacity loss. When I get a nice warm day and I am free, I will give it a full range test. Then I will know if the battery is losing capacity rather than just being cold. Last summer, I could get around 24 miles range in the middle speed setting and 18 miles in the high speed setting. I'll use the same routes to test as I did the first time.
The back brake on my Argos folder is also not perfect due to a compromised cable; however, those brakes work perfectly on the Argos MTB.
Yes - I'm sure that's right and the cable routing is the cause on the folder. For the money those brakes are a very good buy. There is nothing negative to be said about them. Also, the Ali Express prices are fantastic. You can see the exact same brakes on sale on ebay for about twice the price. Since Ali express will get them to you in 7 or 8 days there is no reason not to go to them for the supply.
Do I need to worry about flat mount / post mount (I think that Boardman is flat mount)They're probably all OK. I fitted two sets of the Aliexpress ones (link below) to my Argos bikes. The difference on the MTB is amazing. I'd say not far behind normal hydraulic brakes. I haven't used the folder enough to be sure of the difference, but I can immediately detect a step up in performance, and, of course, they're maintenance free apart from cable lubrication.
The gold ones on the black MTB look really smart too.
In summary, I think these type of brakes would be good for you project. IIRC, the caliper adapters work directly with 160mm discs, though if you use your original adapters or mounts, they should fit directly, though I had to do a bit of adjustment with washers on the folder.
ZOOM XTECH HB100 MTB Hydraulic Disc Calipers Front and Rear Rotor G3 160/180MM MT200 M315 160mm Rotor Hydraulic Brakes for Bikes - AliExpress 18
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
Normally, the calipers are all post mount. It's the adapter that has to change to fit the bike and the size of disc, so if you already have cable brakes, you leave the adapters in place, if you have any, and just swap the calipers. If you're unsure, show what you have.
Yes. Not interchangeable, and also not necessarily the same front and rear!
Flat mount concept and high end products e.g. Hope are highly evolved for road bikes where every gram matters.
Post mount are crude jack of all trades in comparison.
Thanks both, I'm pretty sure the rear brake mount is flat on this model
But not sure about the fork. Will post some pics if I get the bike (it is tempting, but I have to complete the Boarman Hybrid conversion for my friend's wife first ! )
Was thinking of the TRP HY/RD brakes
But not sure about the fork. Will post some pics if I get the bike (it is tempting, but I have to complete the Boarman Hybrid conversion for my friend's wife first ! )
Was thinking of the TRP HY/RD brakes
You need a special adapter for that because it's an unusual (flat mount) caliper. Bad luck! There was some discussion about those around a year ago. IIRC, there is a conversion adapter available, but it lifts your caliper higher, then you get clearance and alignment issues. You should be able to solve it with a 180mm disc and a self-made adapter.
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