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This website has some great info. https://www.electricbike.com/

I am in a similar situation with a dying Aprilia Enjoy Racing NiMh battery pack. I was looking at fitting 2 x lithium motorcycle starter batteries that can be charged using a standard car battery charger. The batteries are SSB PowerSport Litium and use prismatic cells and range from $85 to $150...

I think that BMS would work. I'm interested in using a couple of lithium motorcycle batteries as a replacement for my Aprilia 24V NiMh battery and stumbled onto this thread. The ones i was looking at are specified as safe for charging on a normal lead acid battery charger so I was thinking...

I have both hub motored e-bikes and crank drive also and agreee that they each shine under different situations. FreeGo 250W hub motor for relatively flat/small hill rides Ezee 350W hub motor for rides that have a few more hills Cyclone or Aprilia crank drive for the hilly rides.

The Tektro e-sub and e-comp use a reed switch

The FreeGo rear motor uses a non-standard disc rotor hole spacing mount and when I uprgraded mine from V-brake to disc I could only find the standard 160mm diameter ones with the correct mounting hole spacing. Standard ISO disc brake rotors did not fit.

The place where I got my FreeGo does cycle the batteries, as part of their quality control, before selling them.

Did you get your fault sorted? The switches on those throttles do sometimes fail. They are also more suseptible to faults from water ingress as they have a 36V battery LED gauge.

The Tektro e-Comp and e-Sub use normally open reeed switches to activate the active low brake cut-out function of the controller to cut motor power when the brakes are applied. There is a small amount of adjustment for the switch trip point & you would normally adjust this if you have adjusted...

On the FreeGo Hawk I have, those two grey wires are for the speed restrictor: connect to restrict assist at speeds over 15MPH, disconnect to de-restric.

The rim, spokes, nipples and hub should be matched to work together. In addition to the quality of the spokes and other components, the way the wheel is laced is also important. Most 26" FreeGo wheels that I have seen are double cross laced (X2) using 13 gauge spokes. Spokes are normally...

What current draw were they discharging it at for the test?

According to the FreeGo manual, you need to fully charge the battery first, then do the 3-5 charge/discharge cycles to get the battery to come up to full capacity. BUT Most dealers would have already done this before selling you the bike/battery. To get optimum life out of the battery most...

It looks like the track near C1 has vapourised and if you have no 5V on the throttle connector then you've probably blown the 5V regulator. Looks like you are up for a new controller.

Sorry hech, I don't see how that answers the OP's question about a fork upgrade for an eZee.

Eagle, The FreeGo Hawk I have uses a Tourney 7spd drivetrian with 14-34T freewheel and a front 48T chain ring, so you may want to check the Shimano website before fitting the 11-34T freewheel (if you can get one) to confirm the rear derailleur can handle that range. If your controller is the...

I have seen this happen recently to another FreeGo, where the motor would make noise and run intermittantly. In this instance the rider had damaged the hall sensor wire in the motor cable when he removed the wheel to repair a puncture. Care should be taken not to put undue stress on the...

I bought mine from BMS Battery, but I'm sure there are a few other places that sell them. You might want to detune the output current to match your battery. Mine was set to 27A.

A KU93 high speed sensorless controller will work, I have used it on a Mac motor. I tried a KU63 that was modded for increased current but this would not work - juddering/jerky starts.

NO, on the ones I have it is the inner wire that is gripped and this movement activates the switch.