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The original thread does specifically say "Bafang". Thanks for your info about the others... if I do ever buy a mid drive bike, I'll probably give all those a miss then (unless the bike has an IGH) :)

Mid drive systems (apparently - I don't have one) have a "freewheel" on the chainwheel. So a freewheel on the rear wheel isn't necessary. By locking up the wheel's freewheel, it means the chain is moving all the time the bike is moving along, even if you are not moving the pedals. This means...

This is really interesting! Perhaps a better post here Mid drive cassettte zip tie mod. - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum

Everybody agrees that this is best practice. But... I bought a couple of Raleigh Array e-bikes a few years ago. Both brand new from different shops. And both had the wire exiting the front hub's axle vertically. From memory, all the marketing photographs showed it this way too. It's been on...

Number plates, indicators, insurance, driver's license, road fund license...?

OK, interesting. Thanks. I haven't heard of a system that uses a PAS sensor for anything other than figuring out whether you are pedalling or not (yes / no).

Are you sure about this bit? Clearly, the cadence is always a multiple of the bike speed, which depends on the gear you're in. Are you saying that at, say 10mph, the motor will provide less assistance if I'm in 6th gear, compared to me being in 3rd gear at 10mph?

I suppose I achieve the same effect by trying to pedal at 16mph, but leaving the PAS level at maximum all the time, and never touching the throttle... I can achieve 16mph on the level using my own pedal power, and the motor provides no assistance at that speed. But as soon as I slow down due...

My mistake - thanks. Maybe I'll set the buck converter to 42V, or I might risk a bit higher - the capacitors in the 36V controller are probably 50V max rated...

Yes, thanks. I'm working on the assumption that the controller will be OK because a freshly-charged 36V battery can read about 44V anyway...

Yes, this! I have the same kit, and exactly the same experience. I have bought a buck converter, with the intention of boosting the battery voltage to 44V or so, to get a little more speed (and torque), but haven't got round to trying it yet...

Thanks all, for your answers. As a 100Kg (since lockdown - yikes!) bloke, I think a few kilos saved in bike weight would be unnoticeable to me when riding under power. But yes, when cycling unpowered, and especially when lifting the bike, lighter would be easily better :cool:

Genuine question: why? Is the weight of the bike really a consideration when you're adding a battery and a person to it?

This sounds great! Why aren't we all using these on our "36V" systems?!?

Me, I love my Nexus 8 internal gear hub. I'm happy with my front hub motor for that reason. :)

This story annoyed me. In what way is it an e-bike, exactly? I need to get out more ;)

The multi-pin connectors need to be pushed together *hard* all the way up to the moulded-in line. I'd check that first. If they seem to be all pushed home fully, I would unplug them and look carefully to see if any of the pins are bent / broken.

A bicycle crank puller tool. Something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alomejor-Cycling-Bracket-Freewheel-Maintenance/dp/B07MC445H9

Thanks... so does a single hall sensor "look" for "no field" as well as North-changing-to-South? Because N-S-N-S-N-S looks the same as S-N-S-N-S-N once it's started. Whereas N-S-x-N-S-x is different to S-N-x-S-N-x if the "no field x" can be arranged to happen like that. Is that the way it...

I don't understand how a single-hall sensor can tell the difference between the two directions. Do you know? I'm interested...