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I take it you've moved the sensor in the hope of removing the speed limit by "tricking" the system into thinking the wheel is revolving slower? If so, then the system may well be smarter than you think and by altering one parameter (wheel rpm) you've created a conflict with another. Another...

Very interesting vid. I suspect the problem I've had is because my 125 and dirtbikes have smaller single-cylinder engines (less metal for the sensor to detect) whereas the bigger bikes have bigger engines with more metal. I'll have to try laying them on their side at the lights to try and...

I wonder if there's some sort of weight sensor in addition. I've only had the problem on lightweight bikes (125's and dirt bikes), never on bigger bikes. I've never tried on a pushbike/ ebike admittedly...

If you look at the road surface in front of the lights, you'll usually see a square of bitumen approx 2m square. I'm no expert but I think the sensor is under there. This is the bit I roll the bike over to try and trigger the lights. I guess it's either a weight sensor or something that detects...

Yes, and not just for push bikes. I ride a few different motorbikes and my little 125 has the same problem, yet my bigger bikes don't. I've noticed if I roll the bike around a few feet over the top of the sensor in the road, it sometimes triggers the lights, but not always. Very annoying....

Check with the supplier- the charger may come with the kit (or with the battery if you get that from somewhere else).

Rick, it's unclear whether you're a tinkerer or an end user (or maybe both). If you love an engineering challenge, you're in no rush and you enjoy taking a gamble then VFR's description of his/ her build tells you everything you need to know. There's no instruction manual with these kits...

Those charge indicators are pretty vague TBH. It's worth wiring an inline voltmeter between the battery and the motor if you want a more accurate picture. Based on the voltage/ percentage charge figures previously posted, you'll then get an idea of how much range you've actually got. My 48v...

What voltage is the kit? And what voltage is your battery reading? A 36v battery should be approx 42v fully charged. A 48v battery should be approx 54v fully charged....

@tushingham2 are you a trader?

I'm loving the Cheney (?) Triumph. Quite a heavy lump to be dragging up some of the tracks around there.... Not so keen on the bloke in the foreground- looks like he's about to take a pi$$!

There was a similar post on here a while ago from someone with a similar problem. IIRC there was a suggestion that the dealer might have uploaded the "performance line" software onto the "active line" bike (it might have been the other way round- I can't remember) Anyway, might be worth...

It's absolutely not illegal. I'm still using a pair (on my motorbike) that I was given at a police stand at a motorbike show last year. Police riders use hearing protection. If they weren't offered it as part of their job, their employer (the police) would be in breach of H&S legislation due to...

To build on what @peter.c has said, it really depends on what you want from the bike. The TSDZ measures the amount of torque you put through the pedals, and multiplies it (torque sensing). As a result, it still feels like a pushbike and you still get sweaty, you just go a lot faster. By...

A much stronger variation on the hose clamp would be 2x exhaust u-clamps, clamped onto whatever tube you want to mount the battery...

There's nowt scary about removing the caliper. Undo the two allen-headed mounting screws (probably a 5mm allen key) and pull it off in line with the disc. Don't pull the brake lever whilst you've got the caliper off. Re-fitting is the reverse of removal. If you're a bit of a worrier then add...

You might need to brush up on your Slovenian (or use Google translate) to check it hasn't got "continental" brake levers....

Good news, however you need to keep an eye on the nut because they can vibrate loose. Depending on the ID of your BB you might be able to turn up and press in a sleeve that holds the motor. I did this and it made a big difference to the creaking (although I subsequently removed it). One thing...

When you re-start the system it goes through a "boot-up" check that includes recalibrating the torque sensor. If you've got your feet on the pedals when you turn it on you'll give the system a false sensor reading which can cause the symptoms you've described

If possible, try and keep the connectors pointing downwards once sealed. That way any water that does get in them will drip out. Obviously keep them out of any road spray from the wheels wherever possible