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Well, my fix/bodge is still holding up. I've commuted the last couple of weeks without issue and been over some bumpy bridlepaths that would have rattled the battery/controller quite markedly. It survived. Sooner than I'd like it'll be Ice Spiker time and my times and effort will both climb...

I have both 26" & a 27.5" MTBs. Both are fine off & on road with the correct tyres. Both can accommodate wide MTB tyres if I want them to, but I choose to run Schwalbe Land Cruiser tyres on the 27.5" Oxygen. Those are about 2"/50mm wide.

https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2017/aug/27/why-im-proud-to-ride-an-e-bike-philippa-perry Doesn't cover a wide range of bikes, granted, but any publicity is good...

I've got a Shimano hub dynamo on my Oxygen. It drives a very good Busch & Muller front light that is designed for on-road use; i.e. it doesn't blind oncoming traffic and/or pedestrians. That's important to me, as I really hate being dazzled myself by twits on bikes running extremely bright...

Oxygen are also good bikes, if slightly higher budget than you stated. My 2-year-old eMate MTB is a great bike. I've had power supply issues with it, but the battery design has changed since my bike and is probably better now. The equipment specification of Oxygen bikes is very high given the...

...Except the throttle bulge on the twistgrip fouls the trigger shifters! Looks like I'll either have to put up without a throttle or go back to the flat bars. I'll probably do the former, as the bars are very comfortable.

I'm fairly sure this: http://www.oxydrive.co.uk/store/#!/~/product/id=63979&prid=36&ctid=8&tp=pv is compatible, but it's only 11ah & has been out of stock for a good while. Long term I will probably opt to replace the set up with something more durable.

And the bike has performed perfectly this week, thankfully. Mind you, I regretted the mitts and open-vent helmet this morning!

Perfect! Thank you.

Being something of an electrical dullard, I was hoping some kind soul could point me in the right direction of a link to some cable that would be suitable to extend the leads of my BGA 36V/17.5Ah battery. Jimmy made the leads short, as the Panda kit expects you to use a rather flimsy...

So, the issue was Oxygen's choice of the Das-Kit battery/controller combination and their seeming inability to resolve its power connector issue that has plagued the bike. Basically, the female metal connectors kept 'creeping' inside their housing meaning that a connection became impossible over...

Testing done over an 11-mile route that included a very bumpy bridlepath, so if my wiring was going to give way, it would've done on that stretch. I cranked the power up to the maximum and rode on rural roads up to the 25MPH limit set on the bike. Back to commuting tomorrow.

So, the deed is done. The battery is now linked via a Tamiya connector. It fitted well into the housing, which surprised me. It all powered up as it should, but the proof of the pudding is in the eating! Unfortunately, it has just started to rain here, so I'll delay that for a while. I silicon...

Tjanare! I spent two years in Umea in the early 90s and cycled until it got to -15C and then took the bus. The cold I could wrap up against (although -36C was pushing it!), but the darkness was very hard for me to get used to and I never did.

Forget the above... d8veh, your advice is sound as usual. I will use the current set up, without drilling, but use a Tamiya connector to join the battery and controller. There is space in the battery case to house a little extra wire which I can pull out when removing the battery to allow me to...

I am fed up of the thing going wrong, so I am prepared to put in what appears to be a rather elaborate fix. The way I'm doing it means I can seal up all the previous joints between the battery and the connector - the cause of the fault - and have an easily accessible way to remove the battery...

The controller is in a Das Kit all-in-one battery/controller in-frame holder: http://oxydrive.co.uk/store/#!/~/product/id=63979&prid=23&ctid=6&tp=pv I'm going to drill through the side of the battery case, add a couple of grommets and push the cables through, then sealing with silicon. I'll do...

I am connecting the battery on my Oxygen eMate MTB to the controller via cables that will have to be exposed to the elements. I will need some way of separating the battery cables from the connector to remove the battery. Is there a small, waterproof connector that will do the trick?

Right, keys located and the battery removed. I also disassembled the controller box and separated the two halves on the battery case. What then became apparent was the standard of the power supply wiring and repair work, which is very poor, so I am not surprised that the fault keeps reoccurring...

Out of stock & I don't want to replace like for like even though that means housing the controller elsewhere on the bike.