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Soldering makes for better electrical connector but makes it mechanically weaker. This especially so if wire flexes, more likely to break where solder stops.

Gearing is also important. With Plus go for 10 or 11spd with 42t or 46t low gear on cassette. The CX drive would tackle most hills with standard 9spd 11-34t cassette but best go for 10spd 42t. NB CX is hard on drivetrains, with 10spd parts bit cheaper than 11spd. If riding on rough roads...

The SKS velo 65 mountain 29" mudguards provide good coverage on my front wheel. See review section on my Trek Powerfly7. I'd imagine 27.5 would be just as good. Clearance my be issue if using large knobby tyres, factory tyre justed fitted in my case. You will need 40mm clamps sold separately or...

Shimano new 5spd 60nm IGH maybe way to go. Design specifically for ebikes. The 260% range shouldn't problem used with 60nm motor like bosch performance line or Shimano's new E7000. Smaller 50nm motors may struggle with it on steep hills.

Well you did insist on downgrading to sram drivetrain. Its not problem with Shimano 11spd. See link https://www.bike-discount.de/en/shop/sprocket-10431/l-24

You can buy individual replacement gears for 11spd cassettes. These are for 4 smallest ones. With 15t chainring I use 3 and 4 at 25kmh cutoff, for commuting most of wear is on these 2 gears. Consider replacing these 2 gears along with chain and chainring. Rest of cassette should last for quite...

At lower gearing of 2:1 should be able to maintain 35kmhr comfortably in 8th gear. With middrive like activeline or Steps will climb almost hill you are likely to find on sealed road. My commute involves short hard granny gear grind on my MTB. Wife does it with bit effort on her activeline...

20t is over top unless you have dongle. The other plus of being able to remove chainring yourself is to service bearing seals on regular basis.

The Alfine 8 is little more up market and comes with trigger shifting. Avoid 11spd they don't have good reputation.

If he could use bike as commuter should pay for its self.

Definitely worth hanging onto old bike, for your son. My teenage son has started using my commuter for transport to his activities resulting in lot less taxi trips for his parents. If this ends up being case, you may want to invest in spare set of wheels setup with commuter tyres.

At least they are cheap to replace compared to factory middrives. You also have choice of torque speed ratings for replacement.

Build a ebike by adding kit. The project would be a good father son experience, would also show him how to maintain bike.

Work mate uses Vado and fits it with offroad tyres for his offroad commute. Has found 50mm shock bit limiting especially for small drop offs. A 63mm shock should be ok if you only use bridle paths.

I had similar experiences, next time I'll remove fork first and take lots of measurements.

There are also electric cars with range extender petrol motors, similar to BMW. The petrol motor drives generator and doesn't necessary produce enough power to maintain high speeds without slowly discard batteries. If battery is getting low you have to two choices drive slower or pull over for...

Most deaths and injuries are from impact, explodings cars are rare, except in movies. Batteries don't explode but catch fire.

For occasional long range trip hire a car. The annual fuel savings from electic car would pay for lot of hire days, especially budget hire cars.

You have range to choose from 36-44t. NB Plus is Gen3 motor. https://hollandbikeshop.com/en-gb/branded-bicycle-parts/bosch-e-bike-parts/bosch-crankset/bosch-chainring/

Replacing inner should be easy. Outer is likely to involve bit wearing and cursing if through frame. Get quality pair of cable cutters NOT side cutters. Inner musthave clean cut on it so it doesn't snag when push through. I installed new inner first, then removed old outer. Use new inner to...