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I have that dc to dc converter and it works just fine, although there isn’t much inside it. I took mine apart so I could solder some inline fuses to it for short circuit protection.

Here is a top of the range battery blender at a top of the range price. It looks like it’s only available through Big Game Bikes in the UK and Spark in the US. https://biggamebikes.com/product/datex2-parallel-battery-adapter/

Here is one taken apart.

Those cheap ones are just straight connections between the two batteries. Some sellers actually warn you to ensure both batteries are at the same voltage before connecting together. More expensive “battery blenders“ are available so you can connect two batteries together and the higher voltage...

There are a lot of Newgen 345 complete bikes, frames, and assorted bits and pieces currently for sale on eBay. All bought from John Pye auctions last month with a healthy mark up...

Puedes conectar un cable para evitar la llave magnética?

GB news has just said that it wasn’t a leaky Range Rover after all, and it started due to a faulty Tesla charging point. Straight from Jacob Rees Mogg.

And another interesting one...

This lego bike is also very appealing to me. And that does look like a Ruff frame...

This one caught my eye although I’m not sure it is a real Ruff frame. But it would be difficult to build from scratch for that price...

If you fit a Bluetooth speaker to your bike, you can use a led strip light controller to turn those led strips into disco lights. You are way behind the curve:

If you have a MXUS 3005 or 3006 you can run the Grin motor simulator to see how it will perform under different conditions...

Yes it’s brown. I had mine checked. It looks red to me. Unfortunately I have gone colour blind. I now can tell the difference between red and brown.

Yeah but he can’t configure it without a load of faff and he will need to make a wiring cable to connect them both together. He has had enough trouble setting up his pas.

He is talking about the Swytch yellow connector. No chance of finding that anywhere. It’s proprietary to Swytch.

Better off replacing it with a KT LCD03. It appears to be the most popular KT display. Although the KT LCD08 looks lush.

I just stumbled across this: KT-LED880 E-Bike LED Meter for KT Series Controllers. It only fits KT series controllers. It is not suitable for other controllers. It can display speed. The parameter in this kind of LED meter can be copied from the KT-LCD1 display. So you can buy one KT-LCD1...

If the red light is flashing and you get a 5v pulse then it’s wired up and working properly. The problem that you have now is that you are unable to configure the controller with your display. The controller may be set to PAS 0, so peddle assist and throttle won‘t work.

Check your pas wiring before changing the sensor. The pin connections won’t necessarily be the same as on your old controller and KT controllers aren’t that fussy on what pedal sensor is used. Most KT controller wiring for PAS is Red = 5v, Black = 0v, Yellow = signal. The wiring colours on PAS...

Here is the manual for the KT LCD03. They all have similar functionality so you can Google for your model and it will explain how to set up all of the parameters. https://atmparts.eu/support/LCD03-manual.pdf