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Are either of these the type of switch needed? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CD7B-10pcs-Mini-On-Off-Latching-Latch-Push-Button-Switch-Locking-Car-12mm-black/263861218240 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-1A-30V-DC-250V-Black-Latching-On-Off-Mini-Torch-Push-Button-Switch/302554785168

Decided to go down to a 32t narrow-wide chainring. It pulls like a locomotive up the muddy inclines in 1st gear, almost losing traction in PAS-5 (15a). The chainline is even further out but hasn't dropped off yet.

Went out looking for some mud today to test out the new mudguards. Have decided I need a downtube crudcatcher too.

Cheers SW, I have decided to give tubless a try. Like @Nev I have been put off in the past by the cost stuff like this. So you pump up the tank part and remove the tyre valve inner, give it a blast to seat the tyre, then take the pump off and tyre will obviously go down. Will the tyre stay...

I don't use either of the lights you ask about but on unlit country lanes I use this light but you must dip it down when cars come the other way. Also the battery isn't that good so would buy a 6 cell pack for it...

Aldi do some good winter cycling gloves and/or ski gloves. Altura night vision waterproof jacket and overtrousers are pretty good.

Whats the squiggly looking mudguard thing going down in front of the back wheel?

Maybe try something like this on them. https://www.evanscycles.com/fenwicks-suspension-lube-spray-EV166637

Smart BMS with Max charge 20amp with balancing Max discharge 59amp all with realtime bluetooth app connectivity. https://www.speedict.com/

I'm one step nearer, look what arrived. Just need some Kapton tape and blue heatshrink now.

The frame will pull apart quite a bit. I would leave the caliper mounted as it was originally with the caliper central and add the odd washer or 2 to the axle on the brake side and remove any from the other side. I think some people even put the thicker anti-rotation tabbed washer on there with...

Pulley wheels with a single rear cog, are they always needed? I have been considering this bbs/rohloff combo idea in the future.

Oh, I thought you meant thin in diameter, you mean thin, as in fitting length. Not sure on that, a couple of other members have purchased a front version though, if you can track them down and ask them for the size to double check before buying anything as these may end up being 100mm too.

That's the one in my avatar if you want to see how small the rear version is.

The first time the chain drops off I will fit some sort of chain guide on, as you say it would no doubt happen again when I least expect it. At the moment I am actually trying to make it fall of by using gears 1 and 2 over a bumpy field as a test and seems ok so far. One problem I have found...

I might give a 32t a go to get some serious torque up the toughest of slopes.

I could have done with one of those, just looked at how expensive they are to buy too, but the bb being aluminium didn't take too long to file down.

The chainline is clearly further out in 1st to 3rd but I have just been on a test ride on some bumpy ground and the chain did not drop off, the narrow-wide design helps I think, so will take it up a mountain again to try it out.

I will stick to the dryer routes for now.

Took it up a mountain to see how it performs and have decided the 42t Lekkie chainring is far too large for this type of riding for me and the motor, I think the 42t would be fine for road riding. Good job I ordered the smaller 36t at the same time to try. Will fit that this evening.