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Another +1 for Komoot which also recommends local routes uploaded by other users and has found me some offroad tracks I didn't know were there.

If I was commuting to work I wouldn't be without slime, looking at the number of green dots on my tyre in the past it has saved me many times, although it hasn't worked every time though. The trick with it is to shake it like mad for as long as you can before installing it to evenly mix up the...

Try moving the wheel side-to-side at the top to check for any play in the bearings.

Maybe try to reduce the wind noise with something like these. https://www.cat-ears.com/

Could this be a similar thing ? This looks quite a complicated bit of electronics to do what you've achieved with a single diode. https://bit.ly/2YxMOr8 Also there is a resistor on the board, could that be one of those precharge resistors?

The schottky diodes I ordered were 100v 40a. I've folded the middle legs around the back of the heatsinks and screwed them together through the diode holes then soldered the discharge pos to the aluminium heatsinks which was a seperate project all in itself. Is there a way to test this before...

Thanks for the great writeup WheezyRider, I've raided my box of bits and come up with this so far.

I bought a carbon road bike last year and it became my regular 10 to 15 miler for exercise but I have ended up back on the ebike using pas level 1 or 0. I just prefer it, maybe because I built it and not necessarily because of the motor power but it is good to up the pas level to get home quicker.

Out of curiosity I want to make one of these leads, do I need 2 of these (one for each connected battery)?

Practise on any old bits of wire, tinning the ends and soldering them together, and practise tinning the ends of any old dead 18650 cells. I watched this the other day and found it helpful.

The tip in that picture reminded me of an old rusty solder iron I had in the garage and was going to throw it years ago, it's 65w. I de-rusted it and cleaned the tip after watching videos online and it works spot on so I can use it in the future with that thick wire.

When using these schottky diodes does current still flow between the batteries but controlled and very slowly or are the batteries electronically kept completely separate so you could just plug either one in and out to swap it whenever you want?

How close do the 2xbatteries volts need to be when coonnecting up and using something like this?

My Tektro Novela brakes did that when the pads were well worn and needed changing. I think it's a common problem with that model. Edit: As vfr400 says, I also used to re-adjust them to get them working ok again.

Thankyou for that, I really do need a course in electronics, I thought all that section on the meter was DC volts from 600vdc down to millivolts and the resistance was the k section below it.

First job outside with the portable soldering iron was to seperate a good lipo cell from a dead one. One thing I learned was it's not quite hot enough for desoldering the 10swg wire and I ended up cutting that off. This dead cell was puffed up earlier and before I throw the dead cell in the bin...

Not wanting to hijack the thread but on a similar subject how does speed/power compare with a 36v Q100H 260rpm @36v vs a 36v Q100C 201rpm @44v ? Both @15a or 17a or 20a

Tightening the screw on top of the headset would make it stiff. That's only a bearing preload screw and shouldn't be tightened past removing any play.

I use Viewranger and/or Komoot for planning routes online before setting off, both are good. I find Komoot has a better selections of local routes/places of interest posted by other users.

Here's one for the soldering people/diy battery builders. I was watching a video on soldering xt90 connectors and the guy happened to pickup a soldering iron called a TS100 and mentioned it far beat's conventional irons because it uses a new 'direct tip' technology. After watching a few video's...