Search results

Neal and others are bang on here We need exacts. And to be honest , you need a multimeter ! Anywhere from a fiver to 30 absolute maximum. A Ebikers best friend, trust me Not hard to use. Stick red probe on positive terminal and black on negative. Read number on screen Even if you get that...

Another answer, pricey but nice is Lekkie bling ring crank arms. Got an offset Buzz bars I think they are called

Edit - crossed with d8veh. The forum can totally help but need to work with exacts. Your fault description is common but has several possible causes. We need those readings to start the diagnosis

Can you post the measurements from the battery after a full charge and the charger output Plus, maybe my poor googling ,but that bike has a brushless motor I think ? How many wires ? 2 is brushed and 3 is brushless

Have you replaced the pads at all recently ?

I have dismantled far more packs then Ive repaired. I use plastic tools to pry the welds off I use tools.....well, I use kiddie plastic cutlery set and a spudger ! (from repairing iPhone screens). The welds don’t take much to leaver off. I try to dismantle in cell blocks . The bugger in...

D8veh has repaired more than most by some way so I defer to him But the 3.49v reading is from the series, right (aka block or cell string) You could have 2 duff leaky cells and a still get that reading due to good cells in the series . You’ll need to isolate those cells and read again to be sure

I had an 18 rear sprocket and changed for a 16t. It was exactly the ticket May have been Tommie who suggested this. An hour or so and a couple of you tube videos to follow.....job done and bike is a different beast . Brilliant , effective cheap solution (mine is an alfine 8). My sprocket came...

I’ve got a conti traffic on at the moment , bought out of necessity rather than a first choice of tyre. I’d have bought smart sams It’s thinner than I like at 1.9 but I’m impressed with balance between on and off road No good for true mudplugger stuff but it’s not a bad tyre for the cheap price

Whatever way you hook up mismatched cells into strings and then those strings into a battery (10s for 36v in your case ) I understand the underlying two rule to be this 1. Prob best not to, but 2. If you do expect your whole pack to be as good as the weakest cell. First it will pull down that...

Perfect! Thanks very much, should do the job very nicely :)

IMAX b6 are perfectly decent , I got one But from memory then only can discharge test at 1a max. Which is meaningless against an ebike draw Still, interested in your results for sure

Ha ! The bear - you are not alone ! Simple engineering genius at work But then that’s Mudhuggers all over I suppose And invokes d8veh phrase in my mind “An engineer can do for a penny what any fool can do for a pound”

Thanks both

Great pic ! I shall be buying one to try . Not that happy with my current one Also 5 pairs of glasses (tenner in total) . Great value and I lose them or break them so these are ideal commuting items I’m on my last pair from last cycling week at Lidl

This started as a chat in a pub.... So my good friends motorhome is draining the leisure battery when not in use super fast. But he doesn’t know why. He is also not at all electrically minded My idea was to buy a simple wattmeter to stick into circuit by battery . Then you can see the drain...

The though of taking a hammer to my lovely Tange prestige Ti tubing gives me heart palpitations!

My bbs02 build is coming along nicely What does forum think of this crank clearance though ? Is it an issue? So close even a small gauge cable tie will foul

Great find whiteturbo! Perfect for stealth but also a good swap out for the lcd in terrible weather , I’d guestimate it’s a darn site more weather proof

Not heard of that before, makes no difference to cell performance , doesn’t sound right to me. Ease of spot welding I can envisage a difference I guess.... You may already have noted in your reading but there tends to be a trade off between capacity and discharge rates. So those high capacity...